Up from the lighthouse you have an amazing view of Koh Rong Samloem. This island is still as pristine as it was hundreds of years ago and well worth the trip!

Welcome To Paradise.

Just 45 minuted by speedboat from the mainland lie Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem. While Koh Rong already has the reputation of a backpacker-party-island, Koh Rong Samloem is still quite unspoilt. Thanks to the lease agreements, which last just for a short period of time (unlike the ones on Koh Rong), larger hotel chains stay away and the beaches are dominated by smaller bungalow facilities.

You’ll find four beaches on Koh Rong Samloem: Saracan Bay, M’Pei Bay, Lazy Beach and Sunset Beach.

Beach #1 On Koh Rong Samloem: Saracan Bay.

Saracan Bay is the main beach on which not only most resorts have settles, but also the main docking station for boats from Sihanoukville is located. One lies on the norther, one on the southern part of the beach. From fairly cheap non-aircon-bungalows to high class villas, everyone will find the right spot. The beach here is white as snow and soft as silk, the water radiates in all shades from turquoise to blue with wonderful 27° Celsius and the vegetation is still as untouched as is was hundreds of years ago. What more could one want?! Unfortunately you’ll still come across people who don’t appreciate the value of such a paradise. When walking up and down,  you’ll see certain sections where trash piles up. This is where the hotel managers are challenged, because the resort staff should clean their respective section. This was one of the reason why we chose to stay at Sol Beach Resort. The real winner though was the amazing bungalow with a complete glass front, which gave us an amazing view right after waking up in the morning (detailed review will follow asap). The food here was not a winner (especially not if you’re vegetarian), but the surrounding resorts are a great alternative.

Tip: Once you step across the southern docking point of Saracan Bay, trash actually piles up quite a bit, so we wouldn’t recommend booking a hotel down here. Unfortunately the hotel managers here don’t seem to care much for the environment.

This is the view we had from our bungalow at Sol Beach Resort on Koh Rong Samloem. Not bad huh?

The beach front bungalows at Sol Beach Resort on Koh Rong Samloem are really amazing thanks to their full glass front.

This was right in front of GreenBlue Resort on Koh Rong Samloem. The hammocks right above the water are great when the tide comes in.

Beach #2 On Koh Rong Samloem: M’Pei Bay.

The second beach, M’Pei Bay, lies on the northern end of the island. You’ll come across several smaller resorts, as well as a docking stations for boats here. Also, it’s where one of the two fishing villages of the islands can be found. M’Pei Bay is the second largest beach on the island, yet still pretty laid back. You can hike here from Saracan Bay – back and forth it’ll take you about 5 hours, but the best way to get here is definitely by boat.

Beach #3 On Koh Rong Samloem: Sunset Bay.

The third player is Sunset Bay, which is also the only beach we didn’t visit. As Lazy Beach, it lies on the western side of Koh Rong Samloem and is more relaxed with only three backpacker resorts and a dive shop.

Beach #4 On Koh Rong Samloem: Lazy Beach.

Last but not least: Lazy Beach. Our personal island highlight. With just one very basic resort, you won’t come across any masses of people. The 20 minute walk through the jungle from Saracan Bay keeps more crowds away. If you do decide to take on the trip, you won’t regret it: Lazy Beach offers delicious food and drinks and the combination with one of the most beautiful sunsets you’ll ever get to see will leave you speechless.

Once you come out of the jungle, you’ll already get a sense of what live looks like at Lazy Beach.

White sand, beautiful water and almost no people is what you’ll come across at Lazy Beach on Koh Rong Samloem.

The sunset at Lazy Beach was truly one of the most amazing ones we’ve come across.

Résumé Of Our Week On Koh Rong Samloem.

You can spend an unforgettable holiday on Koh Rong Samloem. Due to the lack of roads and the presence of only smaller resorts, the island is yet still a fairly unknown spot with the same charm as many islands of Thailand had two decades ago. Those who were here, will tell others and we’re sure that this will mean further changes in the next couple of years. But let’s hope that Koh Rong Samloem will not become another victim of mass tourism, but that it’ll continue being this pristine little island it is now.

A Few Tips If You Come To Koh Rong Samloem.

• Be sure to calculate enough time for the crossing, because depending on which company you go with, you’ll either stop at Koh Rong to let of/let on people before or after. Boats take off at Serendipity Beach Pier in Sihanoukville and here you’ll get all the relevant infos on which boat goes where and when.
• There are no banks and therefore no ATM machines on Koh Rong Samloem. Be sure to bring enough cash, because some resorts don’t take credit cards. Prices are really expensive too. Calculate at least double that what you’d pay on the main land – or even better, calculate with European prices.
• Be sure to bring enough insect repellant and a torch for the nightly walks along the beach(es) or jungle.
• Definitely check out the lighthouse on the island. Depending on where you start, the trip will take you between 1 1/2 – 2 hours each direction. We’ll write more about this later on.

An Aspara dancer at Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

For most westerners, Angkor Wat induces an image of a lone European explorer hacking his way through the thick jungle of Cambodia when he by chance stumbling across the lost ruins of Angkor… Ruins, which turned out to become a wonder of the ancient world. To be frank, I was no different. Before I visited Angkor for the first time in 2007, I also thought that Henri Mouhot – a French naturalist – re-discovered these temples.

But this is just an urban myth; When Henri Mouhot came across the temples in 1860, Angkor was run-down, succumbing to nature and being in a serious state of disrepair, yet it was never lost as many people think… The location of all Angkor sites, which are on the tourist itinerary today, was always known to the Khmer and other westerners have been there before. Mouhot himself never claimed that he was the one to discover it, yet somehow he became associated with it.

Angkor Wat is the largest religious structure in the world. It’s the crowning achievement of the classical Khmer Empire, which once ruled most of Southeast Asia.

Personally I think it’s one of these sights every tourist and/or traveller should have seen at least once in their lifetime. Angkor’s many temples will capture you immediately – the area is truly magical and the atmosphere one of a kind.

The Obvious:

Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat is the main temple and largest monument of the Angkor group, as well as the best preserved. It’s truly an architectural masterpiece. The main tower represents the mountain “Meru”, which is the centre of the universe for Hindus & Buddhists. The best time to visit is just before sunset, when the sunlight directly hits the temple structure.

Style: Angkor Wat
Reign: Suryavarman II

The main temple Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

The main temple Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Ta Prohm.

Ta Phrom is definitely one of the most unique temples in Angkor. Unlike most temples, Ta Prohm has been left in much the same condition in which it was found. Trees growing out of the ruins give you the impression that the jungle is taking over.

Style: Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII, enlarged by Indravarman II

Ta Prohm temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Prohm temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Prohm temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Prohm temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Bayon.

Bayon is one of the most enigmatic and powerful religious constructions. Today the temple is best known for the gigantic face sculptures that adorn its 37 surviving towers, facing in four directions on each tower.

Style: Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII to Jayavarman VIII

Bayon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Bayon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Bayon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Bayon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

The Less Obvious:

Ta Som.

In spite of its ruinous state, Ta Som temple has a captivating beauty like very few of the Angkor temples. This comes from its remote location and the merge of nature with the temple. It’s located away from the crowds, and with continually growing plants and trees which makes visitors more curious to explore every dark corner of the temple.

Style: Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII

Ta Som temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Som temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Som temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan.

Preah Khan is one of the largest Angkor temples, measuring 700 meters by 800 meters. It’s immense, beautiful and full of surprises. Definitely allow yourself that bit of extra time to see more than you’d expect in the first place.

Style: Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

East Mebon.

The lovely temple of Mebon is a pyramid of receding terraces. The sculpture at the East Mebon include two-meter-high free-standing stone elephants at corners of the first and second tiers.

Style: Pre Rup
Reign: Rajendravarman II

East Mebon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

East Mebon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

East Mebon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

East Mebon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Banteay Kdei.

Banteay Kdei has not really been restored (yet they are working on it right now) and therefore allows the visitor to experience what it may have looked like originally.

Style: Angkor Wat/Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII

Banteay Kdei temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Banteay Kdei temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Not even one generation ago, Pol Pot & the Khmer Rouge rose to power. In the years of 1975-1979 about 2 million people lost their lives – about 20% of the country’s population. It was one of the worst human tragedies of the last century. Pol Pot showed no mercy and went against his own people; doctors, teachers, intellectuals and city dwellers. The people who lived in cities and towns – some 3 million – were driven out to work in the countryside (it only took 3 days for Phnom Penh to become a ghost town). They were labelled “depositees,” and were given very short rations with the intention of starving them to death.

When Vietnamese forces invaded Cambodia, Pol Pot fled to the Thai border, where he would hide out. He was arrested in 1997 and died during house arrest in 1998 – it was not a painful death for him…

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum was a former high school, which was used as the Security Prison 21 (S-21). Out of the 17.000 people who died there, only 7 survived. 14 others had been tortured to death as the Vietnamese were closing in on the city. Their graves have been placed inside the courtyard.

A visit to Tuol Sleng is a depressing experience. It’s clearly nothing for the faint-hearted, because there’s something about the sheer ordinariness of the place that make it even more horrific; the setting right in the city, the simple school buildings, the grassy & flowery area in the courtyard, ousted beds, instruments of torture and most of all, wall after wall of B & W portraits of men, woman and children conjure an image of humanity at its worst.

Admission:
$2.00 per person
Open everyday from 8.00am – 5.00pm

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

The Killing Fields.

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are located about 15 kilometers outside of Phnom Penh. It was a place where more than 17.000 civilians were killed and buried in mass graves. Many of them were transported here after detention and torture at the S21 prison. In the center of the area lies a 17-story glass stupa which houses 8.000 skulls, bones and cloth exhumed from the mass graves. Again, this place is nothing for the faint hearted, since you’ll be walking on paths with visible cloths & bones, as well as disturbing photographs.

Admission:
$5.00 per person (including a headset) + $15.00 per tuk tuk
Open everyday from 8.00am – 5.00pm

Stupa in the center of the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Human skulls at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Mass grave at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Mass grave at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

This is the kind of history you don’t learn about in school (at least I didn’t). WWI & WWII, as well as the Vietnam War are on the agenda in almost every textbook, but the history of little Cambodia is left out most of the times. Yet it’s not even slightly less relevant!

The reason why I find Cambodia’s history so heartbreaking is because its people are one of the friendliest you’ll ever come across and imagining that someone would want to erase them, leaves me speechless.

“Let history not repeat itself.“ A statement most people would sign immediately. Still, it’s a wish one can send to Santa Clause, because reality looks a lot different…

There are people who were really unlucky, who unwittingly stepped on a hidden danger – a landmine. Even nowadays not all areas in Cambodia and Laos are cleared of landmines. It’s a long and dangerous process and it will take another 10 to 20 years to declare Cambodia UXO (unexploded ordnance) free.

The sad truth is, that even today about 250 people step on such a device each year. Very often the victims are children who play in the fields, while not realizing that hidden dangers lure beneath them. In many cases, one dies right on the spot because the next hospital is far away and often there’s a lack of proper infrastructure to treat such traumas. If your survives such incident, the scars stay forever; a lost leg is the most common injury. In most cases, these people are no longer capable of taking on a job or continue the work they had. Therefore, you’ll see many people with bad disabilities begging in the streets, in front of market entrances, hotels or restaurants.

We’ve come across many landmine victims during our travels through Cambodia. The country and its people have faced many unbearable situations, which gives us the chills when thinking about it … There’s one story that still sticks as if we heard it yesterday: During our first visit back in 2006, we drove up to Angkor Wat with a local taxi driver. He showed us the area and knew a lot about the countries history. He told us about the time when the Khmer Rouge rose to power and the genocide of approx. 2 million Cambodians took its course. His entire family was slaughtered during the Pol Pot regime as well … What’s the appropriate way to react if someone tells you a horror story like that? He said it in a way as if he had made peace with history. After all, what else could he do? Still, the scars on the outside might heal but it will take more than one lifetime to forget …

Human skulls at the Killing Fields just outside of the capital city, Phnom Penh..

The landmines in Cambodia were placed by different factions clashed during the Civil War in Cambodia in the 1970s. They were placed in the whole territory of the country. Cambodia has some 40.000 amputees, which is one of the highest rates in the world.

Founded in 1997 by ex-child soldier Aki Ra, the Landmine Museum in Siam Reap tells the story of his rise from a 10 year old fighter in the Khmer Rouge to his present place as an internationally recognized hero.

Even today there are still about 200 landmine victims every year. Very often the victims are children who are playing in the fields while not being aware of the hidden danger that lures anywhere in this otherwise beautiful country.

The Museum tells the story of landmines in Cambodia and the country’s continuing efforts to rid itself of the aftermath of over 35 years of warfare. Here you can see landmines up close, find out how they work and how you can help Cambodia and the rest of the world in the on-going efforts of clearing these weapons from the face of the earth.

If you’ve ever been to Phnom Penh you most likely visited the Central Market Phsar Thom They. It’s a famous art Deco landmark in the center of the city built by a French architect around 1935. A few years ago now, the market underwent a major renovation and now gleams with new shine.

Opposite the market is a rather … lets just say unimpressive high rise building (for Phnom Penh standards) which houses some quite un-stylish shops. If you take the escalator to the top floor, you’ll find a Chinese restaurant with a huge terrace. There you have a fantastic view over the city. Especially if you have a zoom lens, you can take great pictures from the life down in the streets. Whether it’s spying on people on their balconies and rooftops or watching the vendors at the market stalls … So take the time for an unique and rare overview of this city.

We got another nice view down to Phnom Phen’s hustle and bustle at the “Good Luck Hotel” on Monivong Boulevard. We just arrived back from out motorbike trip through Cambodia and returned the bikes at the nearby rental shop “Lucky Motors”. When checking in, we didn’t expect anything special – we were totally exhausted and ready to crash in our room but then the sign “Rooftop Pool” in the escalator made us curious …

The pool was really great; really cold water, which was totally refreshing and the view was stunning from up there. We spent hours watching the traffic go by, which included several nearly misses on that busy traffic corner. So if you ever come to Phnom Penh, the “Good Luck Hotel” is a great budget choice (25 -30 US $ per night) with spacious rooms and a nice pool.

Phnom Penh’s iconic Central market building in the front; Phnom Penh’s highest skyscraper – Vattanac Capital Tower – in the back.

Phnom Penh might not have a flashy skyline, but this doesn’t make the view any less impressive.

The Central Market in Phnom Penh is definitely a must see for every visitor! It’s one of our favourite wet markets in Southeast Asia.

A fully loaded motorbike with bananas on the way to the Central Market in Phnom Penh.

Apart from the highest skyscraper, Phnom Penh’s skyline hasn’t really changed that much since 2009.

Tonle Sap Lake is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia and of great importance to Cambodia. It’s a bit more unusual than “normal” lakes: Its flow changes direction twice a year and the portion that forms the lake expands and shrinks dramatically with the seasons. This is why entire villages are dismantled due to the season and the waterline of the lake. Therefore most villages around the Great Lake have adjusted by living in so called “floating villages” on boats. They are home to a large Vietnamese & Cham community and they managed to adapt very well to the lake’s seasonal changes.

So, whether it’s the school or rubbish dump, living room or local store – the boat it not only the main transport system but also the grounding for every resident.

Chong Khneas is the name of famous floating village at the edge of the lake. It takes a 30-minute-car-ride  from Siem Reap to the boat dock where boats wait for visitors any given time of the day. The boat trip through the floating village takes approximately two hours. Be aware though, it’s total rip off! I’d never ever do it again, since this really is the worse I have ever experienced! Back when we visited the first time (over 10 years ago), the area wasn’t owned by a private company like today, therefore the floating village was still unique…sad to see what happened to this place!

Family life on Tonle Sap Lake. Five provinces circled the area of Tonle Sap Lake, more than three million of population inhabited around the bank of the Lake and 90% of them earn a living by catching fish and making agricultures.

Tonle Sap Lake is also an important commercial resource, providing more than half of the fish consumed in Cambodia.

Chong Khneas is the name of famous floating village at the edge of the lake. It locates at Southern part of Siem Reap town about 15 Km, and takes only 30 minutes by vehicles to the boat dock where there are always boats waiting for visitors. The boat trip through the floating village takes approximately two hours. Be aware, it’s TOTAL RIP OFF!

During rainy season from June to October, Tonle Sap Lake is filled by water flowing from the Mekong with 14 m in depth and expands the surface of 10.000 km2.

In dry season from November to May the size of Tonle Sap lake is 3.000 km2 with two meters in depth and water flows out from the Lake to the Mekong, in and out flowing is the natural phenomenon occurrences.

Chong Khneas was very interesting before, but now region is owned by private firm they increased the prices and the area looks very commercial.

The boat trip usually includes two stops: one at a touristy floating ‘fish and bird exhibition’ with a souvenir and snack shop, and the other at the Gecko Environment Centre, which offers displays and information introducing the ecology and biodiversity of the lake area.

During our first visit to Tonle Sap lake (over ten years ago), the floating village was still a really impressive sight. Today, it’s just a another tourist trap.

Unlike much of the Cambodian job opportunities, the income is also reliable, but life on the water is difficult. Fishermen sometimes travel two days to reach the middle of the lake and spend up to a week at a time out fishing. Large waves, limited food and dangerous conditions take their toll. The life expectancy of a fisherman is 54 years.

Because the water levels of Tonle Sap Lake differ so drastically in dry and rainy season, fishing families who make their living on the lake began living in floating villages which move with the changing water levels.

Tonle Sap Lake is so big, it can easily be mistaken for the ocean.

Important historical details about Angkor Wat.

What most people don’t know is that Angkor Wat (which literally means “City of Temple”) was actually the name of the main temple, not the entire complex. It was built in the time of King Suryavarman II in the 12th century and is the best-preserved & most visited temple at the site. The complete temple area was known only as Angkor (which is situated on the plain of present-day Siem Reap province north of the Great Lake of Tonle Sap) and it served as the seat of the Khmer Empire until the 15th century. Each king built at least one giant temple during his ruling, which led to a total size of 200km2.

Angkor Wat.

Second thing a lot of people don’t know: The discovery of Angkor by French explorer Henri Mouhot is a bit of a myth. It is said that he re-discovered Angkor Wat in 1860 and that he was the first European to visit the area; both of which is not true. Angkor was never really “lost”. The Khmer knew of the existence even after the kingdom broke down. Some of the temples have been used all the time by fishermen and farmers who lived in the surroundings. In the 16th century, Portuguese missionaries reached the city and even reported about it. The interests of the colonial powers seemed to have swept this under the table…

Angkor Wat temple built for king Suryavarman II.

Tourists at Angkor Wat.

The temple area of Angkor is the most famous tourist site in Cambodia. It has become a symbol of this country, also appearing on its national flag. More than two million visitors come here every year. For the country itself this is a good thing, because there’s not that many other tourist attractions but for the complex, it’s not that convenient. Why? Well, let me try to get this straight: The average person doesn’t really look our for anyone but themselves … and that’s the truth. I could give you a million examples but for Angkor Wat in particular, I’ll give you these two:

1.) During our visit in 2010, we saw how some tourists leaned on a clearly not stable part of a less known temple … Do I don’t have to tell you how the story ended? No. Did they report it? I wouldn’t count on it. Did we report it? Yes, but the guys that we told didn’t seem to care that much.

2.) Four million feet each year (including a couple of thousand from elephants as seen in the photo below) can’t be good for these grounds. But that’s just my opinion.

Obviously I was not the only one who thought this because nowadays, you’re not able to get to all the temples as easy anymore. Some parts are even cut off completely (for example the door of Ta Prohm temple also seen below). Maybe the perfect photograph is ruined this way, but after all we want to enjoy this magical place for much longer!

Millions of tourist visit Angkor Wat each year.

Tourist in front of the main temple at sunrise.

This is the absolute last thing we would ever do…

Of course it’s also possible to enjoy Angkor Wat without all the tourists. Just leave the normal path and you’re in the middle of a (almost spooky) jungle. The arsenal is so huge, you could walk for hours and maybe even get lost at some point…

Away from the tourist areas, Angkor can really be a bit spooky.

One of the faces at Bayon temple.

Impressive walls around the temples were built as well.

The jungle is taking over.

Not only the destruction of the temples is visible but also how the jungle is taking over the temple complex. It’s no wonder that Angkor Wat succumbed to the encroaching jungle…

The jungle is taking over at Angkor Wat.

The world famous Ta Prohm temple in 2007.

Workers try to keep Angkor Wat in a good stage.

Looks a bit like out of a science fiction movie…Taken in 2007.

Giant trees “eat” up the walls.

Giant trees literally “eat” up the temples.

The price for a car (especially if it’s a 4×4 truck, with which you can go off road) can often be very costly and not affordable for a single traveller. To go by bicycle is a great way to see a country but you need time to go around. So these were the thoughts when I decided to drive around Cambodia by motorbike…

Getting A Motorbike.

As you may already know, I am female and 56 years of age. The guys at “Lucky Motors” on Monivong Boulevard in Pnomh Penh looked a bit surprised when my sister Andrea (54) and I came in to check out their bikes ;) The decision, which bike to get, was easy: We rented 2 Honda 125 ccm. They’re easy to handle & the locals use the same type of bikes, so in case of a breakdown they’re going to be easy to repair or to get spare parts in any village.

The Maier Sisters in Phnom Penh.

The price was around 10 US $ per day. You have to pay in advance and leave your passport with the rental agency. So bring some copies if somebody wants it (banks, hotel, etc.). Nobody checked anything from us, nobody stopped us and nobody wanted any bribes…so that part was pretty relaxing for us.

Getting Out Of The City.

My worries where with something else…The drive out of the city of Phnom Penh made me quite nervous the night before we set out. Well, all of my “fears” evaporated instantly when the first meters with the bike were against the one-way system in front of the rental shop (suggested by the rental company). Anyway, off we went, still a bit cautious until we got over the bridge out of the city. There’s so much traffic, but you adjust easily.

Day in day out, thousands of motorbikes, cars, trucks and walkers cross the bridge out of Phnom Penh.

This bridge is the “lifeline” of Phnom Penh, therefore it has to be expanded.

An old woman on her way from the local market in Phnom Penh.

It seems like there are as many motorbikes in Phnom Penh as people who live there.

What To Bring.

One really important thing is to bring (and then wear) is a helmet. Both of us brought one from home (and all of my friends signed it for good luck which was nice) but you can buy cheap helmets in Phnom Penh as well. You should also use gloves so your hands don’t get sticky. Bring long straps for the luggage, and if you intend to go off-road, a big strong plastic bag is a must – this will keep the dust off. Be prepared to be covered in dust at the end of the day!

Now that’s what I call “off-road”.

Sleeping.

For the worst case scenarios bring a hammock; we had to use our hammocks quite a few times, when no guest-house was around. Sometimes set up our hammocks in peoples gardens, who allowed us to sleep there. We even camped in monasteries, where the monks permitted us to spend the night; and well, one time we slept right in the bush. Sleeping outside can be very cold, so have a blanket ready. Overall it was an interesting and positive experience.

One of our sleeping locations during our motorbiking trip through Cambodia.

Further North.

We drove all the way along the Mekong river up north and then turned to the road to Banlung. They told us that the road’s going to be new in some months (or years); until now it’s still the old red soil road which is very (very!) dusty. During the wet season every thing’s going to be covered in mud, don’t know what’s better…Expect to make not more than 100 km distance per day, biking is tiring when driving on potholed dusty roads.

Seeing something gets pretty hard on these dusty roads up North in Cambodia.

And back south again on the “Death Highway”.

After a few days in Banlung, making daytrips north to the Laos border region and exploring the area towards Vietnam, we set out south to the track that is called “death highway”. It’s mainly a small road, that winds its way south to Sen Monorem with very few people along the way. Occasionally there’s somebody whom you could ask for direction, but they always only point south. So, for this section bring enough water, food supplies and petrol!

Andrea on her way down the “death highway” in the North of Cambodia.

During the dry season it’s a very sandy track with lots of deep rifts, so some fitness helps a lot. It’s doable though, even without using these off-road 250 or 400 ccm machines. The locals drive with the little Hondas as well, so you should be fine. During the rainy season things look a bit different; this road can turn into a nightmare and only very athletic, experienced bikers should ride this section. You will have to shift through lot of mud and traversing the full creeks will need raft building skills above average.

Resume.

All in all, we drove about 1400 km in 14 days. We didn’t want to rough it up, so we never drove faster than 65km/h and waited every 10km if one of us was a bit behind. We also had the bike serviced twice (oil change and washing). We always filled up the tank when it was half empty, just in case. Petrol for motorbikes is widely available in Cambodia. I can really tell you, going along the small roads in Cambodia is lot of fun; up the Mekong river you get to see villages that are rarely visited by tourists…So, did we enjoy the trip? Hell yeah! Next stop will either be Laos or Sumatra…also by bike of course ;)

Motorbiking through Cambodia was fun & one hell of an adventure!

If you have any more questions about the route, the equipment, places to stay or anything else, send us your questions; we’d be happy to help you with your plans.