Especially during the Christmas holidays, princes surge through the roof in many places across Asia. We’re not willing to spend thousands of Dollars in a place that is then swamped by tourists, so if you’re looking for a tropical paradise, that’s still rather unknown and where you actually get your money’s worth, then this island off the coast of Aceh is the perfect spot.

Casa Nemo is definitely the best place to stay at on the island. Not only because the resort itself is amazing (review coming up), but also because the beach here is the nicest one on the island. And now I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

You’ll find various hotels across Pulau Weh, but the largest cluster is in the village of Iboih near the best dive sites. It’s a beautiful place to stay at, but also the most crowded and although the water is crystal clear, the stunning beaches can be found somewhere else.

The crystal clear turquoise water is just one of the highlights of Pulau Weh.

The beach right in front of Casa Nemo on Pulau Weh was one of the most beautiful ones we’ve been to.

White sand, pristine waters, palm treed and no one around is what made Pulau Weh the perfect getaway spot for us.

Pulau Weh is a tropical island in the North of Sumatra.

The beach in front of Casa Nemo is the nicest on on Pulau Weh.

Welcome to paradise.

Off To Ambon With A Rather Unconventional Mode Of Transport These Days.

On our journeys we’re never too keen to meet (lots of) fellow travellers, so the Maluku Islands were just the right destination for us. Thanks to AirAsia, destinations across Southeast Asia are pretty easy to reach. Yet we wanted more than just your average travelling day. From Bangkok, AirAsia brought us to Surabaya and from here the real adventure to Ambon, the capital of the Maluku islands, began. For many years we again wanted to travel across the Indonesian islands by Pelni Ship and this was the perfect trip to do just that! Flying across Indonesia as become easy but back in 1998, when we visited Indonesia for the first time, things were a bit different and the Pelni Ship was pretty much the only way to reach unknown places. So this journey would be something special and would bring us back to a time when travelling actually required lots time.

As the KM Dobonsolo made it’s way from Surabaya via Makassar (known as Ujung Pandang back in the days) and Bau-Bau, Ambon came nearer. From Ambon, the ship would continue to Sorong all the way to Jayapura, the border town between West Papua and Papua New Guinea, from where it makes its way back to Surabaya.

Maluku Islands: The KM Dobonsolo at Ambon harbour.

Maluku Islands: Travelling by Pelni ship is still a rather cheap way to travel around Indonesia, especially if you have lots of goods with you.

Maluku Islands: Flights across Indonesia have become so cheap and Pelni ships are often considered unsanitary, therefore tourists prefer the easy way of travelling (plus of course it takes more time).

Maluku Islands: The transportation of cargo is the main source of income for Pelni.

Maluku Islands: Merchants and families with lots of luggage are the main passengers abord a Pelni ship.

Maluku Islands: Just your average scene abord a Pelni ship in Indonesia.

Maluku Islands: Welcome To This Beautiful Archipelago Within The Banda Sea. Welcome To Ambon.

With a few hours delay, the KM Dobonsolo arrived in Ambon at 2 am. While getting off, some officials asked for a “Surat Jalan“- meaning a travel permit for the Maluku Islands, but this is no longer required and we knew that. They tried anyway for a bit of pocket money. After all, we were an easy target since we were the only tourists disembarking (and on the entire ship as a matter of fact). There was not much going on that time of the day and even the Rickshaw pullers were sleeping. We started walking out of the harbour and turned left on the first corner, where a hotel sign seemed inviting. Le Green Suites looked good, but – unbelievably – was fully booked. The night shift manager told us about their second hotel with available rooms and woke one of the sleeping Rickshaw pullers and within 15 minutes we were in the hotel Le Green Suites 2 – with nice rooms and Wifi throughout the property.

In the morning we really didn’t have any plans, so we started walking as we usually do, to get a first impression of Ambon. Our way lead us through the main street, passing a huge Mosque before strolling down to the beach where the markets are scattered along. Morning is always market time and it was very (very!) busy. We could hardly pass through the crowds and a sudden downpour didn’t make it easier. It was rainy season after all and mother nature makes sure you know why it’s called that. We escaped to a restaurant, where delicious Indonesian food was served. At the nearby bus station we enquired our options for continuing north. From Ambon there are Bemos in all directions and we decided heading to Pantai Liang, where the local slow ferry to Pulau Seram leaves at 11 am.

Maluku Island Hopping – Pulau Seram To Pulau Saparua.

Pantai Liang itself is a little village with stunning beaches and it would have been nice to spend a few days here, but we went with the ferry to Waipirit on Seram island. From there we continued by Bemo to Masohi, which would take us a couple of hours. It was already late in the afternoon and one of the passengers in our Bemo suggested the “New Kelemuku Hotel”. We spent a couple of days here, but were longing for some serious beach action. So we continued up north to the village of Sawai. This place not only feels very remote, but it actually is very far out of the way. Tourists are rarely seen due to the difficulty of getting there, plus crocks are nothing uncommon. As beautiful and tranquil at Sawai is, you won’t find white sand beaches.

Maluku Islands: If you’re visiting Indonesia during the rainy season, you’ll have to face downpours like this quite often. Sometimes it rains for days, sometimes the rain stops just as fast as it came. Here we were at Lisar Bahari Resort in Sawai on Seram island and it was actually a mystical atmosphere being above the water with this heavy storm hitting us.

Maluku Islands: As seen here, Sawai village is located far away from civilisation and therefore not visited by tourists often.

Maluku Islands: Lisar Bahari Resort in Sawai is definitely the place to stay at. You might not have sand beaches here, but you can jump into the crystal clear water straight from your room, which is not too bad if you ask me.

For a classic beach paradise, we would have to travel further on. Saparua island would be our next destination and this meant finding a boat that would bring us there. One thing is for sure, travelling around the Maluku islands is definitely something that requires (a lot of) time and patience. If you have both, you’ll be rewarded with memories that will last a lifetime. As we hoped, Saparua was the right spot to spend more than just a couple of days.

Maluku Islands: Puntih Lessi Indah Homestay on Saparua is the best place to stay at for some serious beach action.

Maluku Islands: Saparua offers the best beaches with crystal clear water with pretty much no one around.

Maluku Islands: Saparua beach paradise.

Maluku Islands: getting around by boat is unsurprisingly the best way to get around the islands.

Maluku Islands: From Haria, the main town on Saparua island, you’ll pretty much get anywhere on the island.

As our journey slowly came to an end, we decided to return to Ambon a bit early, to check out the Southeastern part of the island. Though you also won’t find sand beaches here, Ambon island should not be underestimated because it’s still blissful, beautiful, quite, simple and peaceful.

Maluku Islands: Fishing is the main source of income here on the islands.

Maluku Islands: Fishermen along the jetty can be seen pretty much everywhere along the islands.

Maluku Islands: Ambon might not be your typical beach paradise, but the islands offers stunning landscape scenes, beautiful markets and crystal clear waters.

Maluku Islands: The way down south on Ambon islands lead us through several beautiful palm tree alleys.

Maluku Islands: Tourists are a rare sight in Ambon, especially with the kind of camera gear we use, so these boys immediately started posing for us.

Maluku Islands: Collin Beach Hotel on Ambon islands was a beautiful places to stay at.

Resumé After Three Weeks On The Maluku Islands.

The lack of development and commercialisation on the Maluku islands is bound to not last and this is what gives when their charm. When coming here, don’t expect infrastructure that you might find elsewhere. These islands have not only been off the radar for a while, but are a truly forgotten paradise in Indonesia.

There are two kinds of people – those who’ll go to a market to buy fish and those who won’t. Markets (especially fish markets) can be stinky, and many of us would rather go to the supermarket. We love markets not only because of the great photo opportunities, but because this where the real deal happens. Sassoon Docks is one of the largest fish markets in the city and for us, it was just the right spot to go to. Turns out that the Sassoon Docks is also one of the oldest docks in Mumbai (142 years), and one of the few docks in the city open to the public.

Where Modern And Traditional Lives Cross.

The entrance looks like the gateway of a fortress, but we knew we were at the right spot when the salty whiff of the ocean and the scent of fish greeted us from afar. More and more people shoving large boxes of fish crossed our path and we knew that we were getting closer. What we didn’t know then is that the Sassoon Docks just recently got a funky street-art turnover called Sassoon Dock Art Project as part of the St+art Mumbai 2017 Urban Art Festival. Despite its historical value and with Mumbai’s try to escape its fishy roots, this place has rather been avoided by Mumbaikars. Like the docks, the memory of Mumbai’s Koli past is all but wiped clear.

The Sassoon Dog is hard to miss when walking along the Sassoon Docks in Mumbai.

Koli women are crucial to the running of the fishing trade at the Sassoon Docks and multiple installations and paintings are built around them.

St+art India is dedicated to making art public, taking it out from niche spaces of galleries and museums and the Sassoon Docks in Mumbai where just the right spot to shed light on this historic party of the city again.

Home Of The Koli People.

The Sassoon Dock in Mumbai is home to the city’s traditional Koli fishing community. The Koli people are an ethnic Indian group native to Maharashtra, Gujarat, Rajasthan, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana states. It’s believed that the Koli people are Mumbai’s original inhabitants and whose goddess Mumbadevi lends her name to the city. The communities have thrived in the hidden quarters of the city, the koliwadas, which essentially means “a home that opens to the sea“. Much of the art here represents the lived realities of the Koli community – its people, their trade and its smell.

The art project started on November 11 and will run until December 30, 2017. Whether the Sassoon Docks will still be visited as frequently after, is unclear. After all, all the art in the world can’t make the notorious smell, the endless heat and the piercing noise – which are a few reasons people have not come here before – go away.

This has been our second visit to Sassoon Docks and tourists are still a rare sight here. The art installation has brought some upwind, yet only the eager and especially smell-resistent make it all the way to the end of the docks.

Currently, about 1,500 trawlers operate at the Sassoon Docks, bringing in around 20 tonnes of fish every day.

Once you reach the Sassoon Docks, at least 500 people are packed on to a partially-covered chunk of jetty, boats bobbing alongside.

A typical day at Sassoon Docks begins at 5 am when the fresh catch is brought in from the sea.

Over 150.000 people depend on the Sassoon Docks for their livelihood.

Men push loaded handcarts through the crowds at Sassoon Docks as they yell for people to get out of the way.

Despite the fact that most tourist wouldn’t buy fish at Sassoon Docks, women holding tubs full of fish will still ask you.

The docks were built in 1875 by the merchant, Sir Albert Abdullah David Sassoon, a prominent member of the Bombay Jewish community.

Where there’s fresh fish, there needs to be crushed ice. While fish is unloaded off the boats, tons of ice is crushed to keep the fish fresh at the Sassoon Docks.

There are so many ice-trucks on Sassoon Docks, that counting them would be impossible.

In addition to the jetty, the Sassoon Docks house a series of warehouses where the Koli fisherwomen shell prawns with staggering ability.

The sheer variety of fish on offer at Sassoon Docks is mind-blowing: red snapper, tuna, octopus, baby sharks, cuttlefish, blue crabs and stingray are some of the fish you can expect to find here.

Initially, the Sassoon Docks serviced the cotton trade as the Sassoon family were cotton merchants. It was after the decline of the Indian cotton industry that fishing became the main activity here.

The Sassoon Docks are ‘wet’ docks, which means it allows boats to enter at all times because the water level remains the same regardless of the tide.

Up from the lighthouse you have an amazing view of Koh Rong Samloem. This island is still as pristine as it was hundreds of years ago and well worth the trip!

Welcome To Paradise.

Just 45 minuted by speedboat from the mainland lie Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem. While Koh Rong already has the reputation of a backpacker-party-island, Koh Rong Samloem is still quite unspoilt. Thanks to the lease agreements, which last just for a short period of time (unlike the ones on Koh Rong), larger hotel chains stay away and the beaches are dominated by smaller bungalow facilities.

You’ll find four beaches on Koh Rong Samloem: Saracan Bay, M’Pei Bay, Lazy Beach and Sunset Beach.

Beach #1 On Koh Rong Samloem: Saracan Bay.

Saracan Bay is the main beach on which not only most resorts have settles, but also the main docking station for boats from Sihanoukville is located. One lies on the norther, one on the southern part of the beach. From fairly cheap non-aircon-bungalows to high class villas, everyone will find the right spot. The beach here is white as snow and soft as silk, the water radiates in all shades from turquoise to blue with wonderful 27° Celsius and the vegetation is still as untouched as is was hundreds of years ago. What more could one want?! Unfortunately you’ll still come across people who don’t appreciate the value of such a paradise. When walking up and down,  you’ll see certain sections where trash piles up. This is where the hotel managers are challenged, because the resort staff should clean their respective section. This was one of the reason why we chose to stay at Sol Beach Resort. The real winner though was the amazing bungalow with a complete glass front, which gave us an amazing view right after waking up in the morning (detailed review will follow asap). The food here was not a winner (especially not if you’re vegetarian), but the surrounding resorts are a great alternative.

Tip: Once you step across the southern docking point of Saracan Bay, trash actually piles up quite a bit, so we wouldn’t recommend booking a hotel down here. Unfortunately the hotel managers here don’t seem to care much for the environment.

This is the view we had from our bungalow at Sol Beach Resort on Koh Rong Samloem. Not bad huh?

The beach front bungalows at Sol Beach Resort on Koh Rong Samloem are really amazing thanks to their full glass front.

This was right in front of GreenBlue Resort on Koh Rong Samloem. The hammocks right above the water are great when the tide comes in.

Beach #2 On Koh Rong Samloem: M’Pei Bay.

The second beach, M’Pei Bay, lies on the northern end of the island. You’ll come across several smaller resorts, as well as a docking stations for boats here. Also, it’s where one of the two fishing villages of the islands can be found. M’Pei Bay is the second largest beach on the island, yet still pretty laid back. You can hike here from Saracan Bay – back and forth it’ll take you about 5 hours, but the best way to get here is definitely by boat.

Beach #3 On Koh Rong Samloem: Sunset Bay.

The third player is Sunset Bay, which is also the only beach we didn’t visit. As Lazy Beach, it lies on the western side of Koh Rong Samloem and is more relaxed with only three backpacker resorts and a dive shop.

Beach #4 On Koh Rong Samloem: Lazy Beach.

Last but not least: Lazy Beach. Our personal island highlight. With just one very basic resort, you won’t come across any masses of people. The 20 minute walk through the jungle from Saracan Bay keeps more crowds away. If you do decide to take on the trip, you won’t regret it: Lazy Beach offers delicious food and drinks and the combination with one of the most beautiful sunsets you’ll ever get to see will leave you speechless.

Once you come out of the jungle, you’ll already get a sense of what live looks like at Lazy Beach.

White sand, beautiful water and almost no people is what you’ll come across at Lazy Beach on Koh Rong Samloem.

The sunset at Lazy Beach was truly one of the most amazing ones we’ve come across.

Résumé Of Our Week On Koh Rong Samloem.

You can spend an unforgettable holiday on Koh Rong Samloem. Due to the lack of roads and the presence of only smaller resorts, the island is yet still a fairly unknown spot with the same charm as many islands of Thailand had two decades ago. Those who were here, will tell others and we’re sure that this will mean further changes in the next couple of years. But let’s hope that Koh Rong Samloem will not become another victim of mass tourism, but that it’ll continue being this pristine little island it is now.

A Few Tips If You Come To Koh Rong Samloem.

• Be sure to calculate enough time for the crossing, because depending on which company you go with, you’ll either stop at Koh Rong to let of/let on people before or after. Boats take off at Serendipity Beach Pier in Sihanoukville and here you’ll get all the relevant infos on which boat goes where and when.
• There are no banks and therefore no ATM machines on Koh Rong Samloem. Be sure to bring enough cash, because some resorts don’t take credit cards. Prices are really expensive too. Calculate at least double that what you’d pay on the main land – or even better, calculate with European prices.
• Be sure to bring enough insect repellant and a torch for the nightly walks along the beach(es) or jungle.
• Definitely check out the lighthouse on the island. Depending on where you start, the trip will take you between 1 1/2 – 2 hours each direction. We’ll write more about this later on.

To get there was pretty easy and straightforward. We flew in to Surabaya from where we took the train to Banyuwangi Regency/Karangasem Station. We were picked up by our guesthouse and drove to the village of Licin, which is about 20 kilometres from the station, located on the slopes of Kawah Ijen volcano. The guesthouse, situated between rice terraces, coffee plantations and natural jungle was an ideal spot to explore the area, while our host organised the trip to the volcano the next morning. Oh and by “next morning” we mean 1 a.m.!

Workingman’s Death: 3 Times A Day, 6 Days A Week.

The walk into the cater would include sharp drops, slippery steps and a toxic turquoise lake. At almost 2.800 metres, this place is a working mine where men carry up to 100 kilos of sulfur out of the mouth of the volcano down to the weighing station. They do this by hand up to three times a day, six days a week, starting at 1 a.m. when it’s still cool outside.

From our guesthouse it took about one hour until we reached the parking lot from where the 3.5 kilometre trek starts. Our guide’s name was Neki, who was a miner himself for almost 10 years and told us much about the job during the first one-hour climb upwards. The way lead us to the canteen for a little rest with a cup of tea before continuing. Here we saw the first miner coming towards us. It was a sight we’d see many more times during our walk to the crater rim: The man carried two baskets made out of bamboo loaded with mustard-yellow sulfur on his shoulder. He was one of 20 working men trying to bring up as much sulfur as their back can bear. Seeing him rapidly walk past us with this enormous load almost made us feel bad for resting. We continued walking.

The trip to the Kawah Ijen crater might not be super tough, but I still welcomed the rest in between.

Miner at Kawah Ijen break up the sulfur before transporting them to the weighing station.

There is only one way to the crater that tourist and the workers have to share.

A miner ascends from the Kawah Ijen crater with his baskets full of sulfur.

The moment you arrive at the crater rim you’ll notice hundreds of tourist walking down into the crater to see the spectacular blue fires that burn between the sulfur. Neki provided us with gas masks the closer we got to the toxic fumes. Kawah Ijen’s smoky abyss looks and feels like a place from outer space. It’s hard to believe that people actually work here. The situation is frankly quite ridiculous: on one hand miners are dragging up between 80-100 kilos of sulfur up to three times a day, while on the other hand ignorant tourists try to overtake them or comfortably rest at the spots that are reserved for the working men who need to get the load off their shoulders for a minute. What felt even more embarrassing was seeing tourists taking selfies with these guys. We spent a couple of hours observing this and came to the conclusion, that some people would do anything for a selfie and don’t have the courtesy to give way to the heavy loaded miners who deserve more than a little bit of credit for having what is, perhaps, the hardest job in the world.

The miners inevitably inhale the toxic fumes at Kawah Ijen crater.

The landscape around Kawah Ijen volcano is definitely one to remember!

The Price Miners Pay At Kawah Ijen.

Each miner makes about 200.000 Rupees (15-20 $) a day, which is quite good money in Indonesia compared to other jobs. But they bear the scars of years spent on the edge of life and death. The side effects are nothing less but severe burns, sore bodies, ongoing coughing, poisoned lungs and squashed shoulder bones. When exposed to this kind of work over long periods of time, the life expectancy is only 30 years. But money keeps them going and when one has the opportunity, he saves up as much as he can, and after a few years, opens a guesthouse and becomes a tour guide for crazy tourists who are after blue flames brightening up the nights down in this toxic environment. Neki was one of these people. And he believes that it saved his life.

Wherever you arrive in Mumbai, you’ll immediately notice that auto rickshaws, bicycle rickshaws and motorbikes are non existent. This makes you taxi bound, and forces you to memorise as many bus routes as you can. Or, you simply decide to check out the area by foot, which is our favourite way of getting around. Mumbai has several must visit places, but for first time visitors, there are a few that really shouldn’t be missed.

#1 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: The Gateway Of India.

Of course the Gateway of India is the must visit sight when coming to Mumbai. In earlier times, it would have been the first structure that visitors arriving by boat would have seen. And still today, it’s one of those monuments you’ll never forget.

We first arrived here on a Sunday, which is most probably the worst day of the week to explore the Gateway of India. The waiting line was about two kilometres long! Especially the men’s line was endless, but even the ladies line was too crowded. We gave up immediately and decided to come back the next day. The situation looked a lot different on Monday morning. The access was almost deserted and we could enter without waiting. We hopped on a boat cruise to get a better overview. The cruise takes about one hour and gives you the impression of what it must have felt like to arrive here back in the days.

The Gateway of India was erected to commemorate the landing of King George V and Queen Mary when they visited India in 1911. Today, it is one of India’s most iconic structures.

A Mumbai boat cruise at dawn will provide you with perfect photo opportunities.

The Gateway of India is the stepping-off point for cruises around the natural harbour of Mumbai.

The Gateway of India, as well as the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel are two of the most iconic buildings in Mumbai, visited by thousands of tourists every day.

#2 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus.

Formerly known as Victoria Terminus, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an historic railway station. It’s a masterpiece of Victorian Gothic architecture. The station was built in 1887 to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. You’d expect the inside to be just as extravagant, but its interior is far less impressive. Still, keep in mind that this railway station is the busiest in the world, with three million passengers passing through every single day!

Mumbai’s local trains are called the city’s lifeline for a reason. The number of passengers they carry every day is larger than the population of some countries. Victoria Station is one of the largest train stations (according to daily travellers) in the world.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus is an outstanding example of the meeting of two cultures, as British architects worked with Indian craftsmen to include Indian architectural tradition.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus was built over 10 years, starting in 1878, according to a High Victorian Gothic design.

The Mumbai suburban railway operates 2.342 train services. The local trains are the primary mode of transport for hundreds and thousands of people who travel for as many as five hours every day to and from work.

#3 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: The Sassoon Docks.

Sassoon Docks is the largest wholesale fish market in Mumbai. Arrive in the morning to see hundreds of women pulling shrimps, boats arriving with their catch and men auctioning off the fresh fish right on the spot.

These men at Sassoon Docks are refilling the boats with crushed ice for their next trip out to sea.

At the Sassoon Docks you’ll come across all varieties of sea creatures.

Only women are pulling shrimps while chatting along at the Sassoon Docks.

These men at the Sassoon Docks are filling up trailers with crushed ice, which are then pulled to the boats and packed into the stowage for the next trip out to sea.

This wholesale trader at the Sassoon Docks counts his money after a busy morning.

#4 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Home Of The Jungle Book Author Rudyard Kipling.

Joseph Rudyard Kipling was an English writer, born in Mumbai on December 30, 1865. The bungalow he was born in 151 years ago has since been rebuilt, but the peeling mint green-painted wooden cottage, where trees lean against its roof, occupied only by birds and bats, stands in its place and radiates the kind of atmosphere you’d expect when reading his most famous work The Jungle Book.

The bungalow is located in the corner of the Sir J.J. School of Art compound, not far from one of the busiest boulevards in Mumbai.

It’s actually not allowed to enter the area, we were immediately advised to leave, but it’s said that the Kipling House shall be converted into a tourist attraction.

An ornate metal plaque at the entrance of the cottage is engraved with the words, “Rudyard Kipling, son of Lockwood Kipling, first principal of Sir J. J. School of Art, was born here on 30.12.1865.”

#5 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery.

We came across Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery by accident, but the smell of fresh Chai tea and bread immediately caught our attention. All products in the bakery are handmade and are absolutely delicious! It was a great change to the Indian cuisine we’ve had for the past weeks and we even felt like home for a moment (also thanks to all the German posters on the wall). Definitely one of the best bakeries in town!

Yazdani Restaurant & Baker in Mumbai draws in a lot of visitors, particularly international visitors – especially Germans, thanks to a lot of German signs like here.

A peek into the kitchen and you will see several bakers working: greasing pans, cleaning the raisins and weighing the dough. Yazdani Bakery makes approximately 6.000 pavs (bread buns) each day.

Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery was opened in Mumbai in 1953 by Meherwan Zend. Today, the three brothers, Rashid, Zend, Parvez and his son, Tirandaz run the bakery.

The name Yazdani originates from the town of Yazd, which is the capital of the Yazd Province in Iran, a hub of Iranian culture.

#6 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Dhobi Ghat Laundry District.

There are several Dhobi Ghats in Mumbai, but Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat is the most famous and the largest unmechanized laundry facility and in the world. A dhobi is a laundryman who collects dirty linens from hotels, restaurants and homes and returns them washed and neatly folded from open-air laundromats known as ghats.

Approximately 700 dhobis live and work in the laundry colony Mahalakshmi, washing an average of 1 million pieces of clothing every day.

The area of Mahalakshmi extends across several city blocks and has many winding alleys, workrooms and semi-covered subsections of aluminum siding.

If you want to enter Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat, you will be asked for money, since this place has become such a tourist attraction.

You will find every piece of clothing there is at Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat – from socks to linen.

#7 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: The Real Slumdog Millionaires.

Some might find a visit to the slum areas morbid, but you can’t ignore the fact that approximately 60% of Mumbai’s population lives in slums. If you really want to get a sense of how the Mumbaikers manage their daily routine, then we’d suggest to take a ride with one of the many commuter trains that ply the area. If you get out at Bandra railway station for example, you’ll be right in the middle of on of the biggest slums in Mumbai.

There are many slum areas in Mumbai, with Dharavi as Asia’s largest. It is home to approximately 1 million people.

“Poverty porn” oder social tourism? At the least, a visit to some of Mumbai slum areas will give you an insight on what is feel like living in these conditions.

The slums in Mumbai are a city within a city.

#8 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Oval Maidan.

Oval Maidan is a park located in an upscale area, with all the embassies and large company headquarters around. On Sundays, thousands of people gather here top play a game cricket, or to enjoy a picknick with friends. It’s a great spot to get aways from the busier side of Mumbai for a while.

Oval Maidan is the perfect spot to get away from Mumbai’s busy life.

If you come at the right time and are lucky, you’ll be able to experience Oval Maidan without crowds of people – which is very unusual for one of Indias busiest cities.

#9 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Marine Drive.

We walked along the 3.5 kilometre-long boulevard from the southern tip all the way to Chowpatty Beach, which is located in the area where the Mumbai Opera House is situated. It’s a recreation area and lots of Mumbaikers flock the beach on weekends. The rich and famous of Mumbai show off their newly bought Ferraris, Audis and BMW’s here. It really gives you a sense that on one hand, Mumbai is home to millions of underprivileged people, and on the other hand some of Indias richest and most powerful.

Marine Drive is a 3.6-kilometre-long boulevard in South Mumbai in the city of Mumbai. The road was constructed by late philanthropist Bhagojisheth Keer & Pallonji Mistry.

You’ll get an amazing view of Mumbai’s skyline when walking along Marine Drive.

#10 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Haji Ali Dargah

Haji Ali Dargah is one of the most popular religious places in Mumbai, visited by people of all religions. It’s also one of India’s most famous and prestigious landmarks situated in the middle of the Arabian Sea off Lala Lajpatrai Marg. Haji Ali Dargah is only accessible via a narrow road that disappears underwater at high tide.

Built in 1431, this Mughal-style architectural marvel serves as a reminder of the city’s rich and multicultural history. The six-hundred-year-old dargah is dedicated to the memory of Sayyed Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari. Sitting atop a set of large rocks in the sea, the Haji Ali Dargah features stunning white-marble pillars, domes and minarets, which showcase Indo-Islamic architecture at its finest.

The view from the Haji Ali Dargah is spectacular and offers a fairly quite spot in busy Mumbai.

Agrasen Ki Baoli was on our list, yet getting there seemed to be more difficult than expected. Three different tuk-tuk drivers, as well as several passer-by’s, didn’t know what we were talking about. In the end, we ended up at a minor Taj Mahal look-alike, which we then learned was Safdarjung’s Tomb.

Safdarjung’s Tomb was built in 1753 – 54 by Shuja-ud-Daulah as a tribute to his fathers memory, Safdarjung and is a pretty impressive building. After entering through the double storey gateway, you’ll forget all about the noisy street life you just came from. In the centre of the garden, the mausoleum rises gracefully from a high platform.

We spend the afternoon strolling through the gardens and soaked up the energetic atmosphere of this rather unknown Delhi tourist attraction.

Safdarjung’s Tomb Facts:

• Location: Intersection of Safdarjung Road and Aurobindo Marg
• Metro Station: Jorbagh
• Open: Daily from sunrise to sunset
• Entry Fee: 15 Rupees (Indians), 200 Rupees (foreigners)
• Photography Charges: Free (still camera), 25 Rupees (video camera)

Enclosed to the gateway to Safdarjung’s Tomb is the wall surrounding the monument. Channels running above the wall carry water to the different pavilions.

Safdarjung’s Tomb is a double storey mausoleum built with red and buff sandstone. The garden is divided into four squares by side pathways and tanks which are again divided into smaller squares and pathways.

Safdarjung’s Tomb has a central chamber surrounded by eight apartments around it.

The three-domed mosque within the complex is located to the right side of the entrance gate (left side once you’re inside the complex) of Safdarjung’s Tomb.

Safdarjung Tomb is the last monumental tomb garden of the Mughals.

Apart from one or the other Indian couple, Safdarjung’s Tomb is not a major tourist attraction, which makes it the perfect place to spend some time away from noisy and busy central Delhi.

The cemeteries we’re used to are all (more or less) the same: tombstones either next or atop of each other (like for example the Jewish Cemetery in Prague), walkways through the various paths, smaller and larger mausoleums as well as flowers decoration one or the other grave. So when we first heard about hanging coffins high up on cliffs, it sounded quite strange, but our world is huge and packed with different customs and rituals.

From One Bus To The Next: The Normal Way Of Travelling In China.

Our last summer journey brought us to China again. We flew into Chongqing, a city that’s an experience itself not only due to it’s enormous size. We only had 10 days to explore the city and the hanging coffins southeast of Chongqing. Sounds enough, but when travelling through China, you can never be sure where to end up due to the language barrier so a time buffer is strongly advised.

From Chongqing we had to travel to Yibin. A lady at the airports tourism facility booth helped us in securing a seat on a bus the next day. Busses depart straight from the airport to many destinations near or far from Chongqing. The ticket booth and the bus station are located right next to the domestic airport (the international airport is approx. 500 meters away and it’s easy to walk there, even with luggage). There are also other bus stations in the city near the Northern and Southern train stations, but since we don’t speak Mandarine and locals outside of Beijing don’t really understand English, this was our best bet to arrive where we actually anticipated to.

Next Destination: Luobiao.

Once we got to Yibin, we had to transfer again. This meant a local trip through Yibin to get to the right bus station. You can take a taxi if you want to skip all these mini adventures, but it was fun and we got a look at Yibin at the same time. Some of our fellow passengers immediately had an idea where we were headed and directed us to the right bus. After we got to the southern outskirts of Yibin, we hopped onto our transport to Luobiao.

After approximately three hours, leaving the Yangtze River behind us, we arrived in Luobiao, in the area of Xuanguan (which means hanging coffin in Chinese). We didn’t bother with accommodation, and went with what we came across. Right next to the bus station was a hotel that had a nice room with great view and free Wi-Fi. We rested a little while and started exploring.

Some Practicalities:

• You’ll come across a hotel near the bus station for about 80 RMB per night. It’s nothing too fancy, but good enough for what one needs.
• A local market in the morning gives you all the necessary food options.
• The bus back to Yibin leaves early in the morning. And at around 9.00 am, a bus leaves to Gongxian. From here you can take another bus to Bamboo Sea another attraction in the area, but with hordes of local tourists.

In Persuit Of Ghosts: Hanging Coffings Of Luobiao.

As it was already evening, we didn’t venture far out, but the town looked promising, with the strange feeling of being in persuit of ghosts. So early next morning we were on our way to check out these mysterious hanging coffins. The lush valleys and cool mists of southwestern Sichuan province is truly astonishing: beautiful rice paddies, small farm houses, the most friendly people working their crops and only now and then you hear a truck passing by. We didn’t come across any western tourists and even Chinese tourists are a rare sight. This part of the world does not only seem far away from civilisation, but it actually is.

The hanging coffins of the Bo people, a Chinese ethnic minority, have puzzled historians for generations. Nailed into the cliffs high above the farmland, hundreds of wooden coffins keep silent watch over the valleys below. Over the years, several coffins have fallen down, but you get a good impression on how many must have once hung there by counting all the holes carved into the mountains. The Bo tribe was exterminated in the days of the Ming Dynasty and these coffins are the only relict. It seems obvious that little now is known of them, who they were, or how they lived.

The hanging coffins are really interesting, but what fascinated us even more was the atmosphere and feeling we had when wandering through the rice paddies, as well as the hospitality of the local people. We definitely left Luobiao with a big smile.

We started wandering along the path to the first set of hanging coffins and then further up into a huge cave with ruined structures inside it. The view from up here was breathtaking!

The handing coffins were a unique burial custom of the Bo people was carried out to prevent the dead bodies from being eaten by wild animals and was also believed to be a way for the soul of the deceased to gain an eternal blessing.

If you enjoy peace and quite, then the area of Luobiao is the right sport for you. Here you can truly disconnect from the outer world and experience nature at its best.

The hanging coffins are interesting no doubt, but the experiences we had with the local people, as well as the atmosphere and nature of the Luobiao area deserves just as much attention!

The hanging coffin was a widespread form of burial in ancient southwest China, but the practice ended with the mysterious disappearance of the Bo People.

Luobiao is located in a small river valley with some of the most impressive vegetation we’ve come across.

Some believe the hanging coffins of the Bo people must have been lowered down with ropes from the top of the mountain. Some think the coffins had been put in place using wooden stakes inserted into the cliff face to be used as artificial climbing aids. Others believe that scaling ladders or timber scaffolds were used. However, investigators have failed to find even a single stake hole.

The market in Luobiao offers everything you expect from a market in China: live animals, fresh fruits and vegetables and lots of street vendors.

The Capital Of Ladakh.

Leh lies at an altitude of 3.524 metres and due to the strong influence of Tibetan Buddhism, the city is also known as Little Tibet or the Land of Lamas. Although not as high as some of the passes across the Leh-Manali Highway, the atmosphere and especially the sky is exceptional. You’re closer to heaven and not only can you see, but feel it! Leh radiates something I can’t quite nail down. Something peaceful and mysterious at the same time. We felt like staying in an old western town with a gold-rush mood… the next three days would let us explore this amazing town and the beautiful surrounding Gompas.

Religious Tolerance And Respect For Cultures.

Even today the Jammu and Kashmir region is often in the news due to religious clashes. The dispute actually dates back to August 1947, when the partition of the Indian sub-continent led to the formation of India and Pakistan. Because of its location, Kashmir could choose to join either India or Pakistan. The ruler of Kashmir, Maharaja Hari Singh, was Hindu while the majority of the population were Muslims, therefore he wasn’t able to decide whether Kashmir should join India or Pakistan. In the end, Kashmir remained neutral. But his hopes of independence only lasted until October 1947, when Pakistan sent in Muslim tribesmen to Srinagar. The Maharaja then appealed to the Indian government for military assistance. In return, he signed the Instrument of Accession, which stated that Kashmir would join India on October 26, 1947, with a portion of it having passed to Pakistan’s control.

Since 1947, India and Pakistan have fought three wars and only this January, thousands of civilians have fled their homes, due to the clashes along the 200-kilometre stretch of the border. It’s unclear for how long this battle will continue.

But on the brighter side, Leh radiated a sense of calmness. At least we had that feeling. Here you can hear the muezzin, as well as the buddhists chantings. You’ll come across mosques, before passing a Tibetian prayer wheel. The architecture in the town also shows both Buddhist and Muslim styles. So what is it, that makes it possible for Muslims and Buddhists to leave peacefully side by side? Whether this is just the calm before the storm remains a mystery…

The Himalayas Lie At Your Feet.

Leh isn’t very big and most parts can be navigated on foot – which is the best way to explore any city anyway. There are many excellent guesthouses and mid-range hotels to choose from, as well as numerous restaurants serving great Indian, Tibetan and Western food. Best food place in town is definitely World Garden Cafe, where we actually ate something after three days of crackers and rice (it’s not India without a little vomiting). The most dominant structure is definitely Leh Palace built in the same style as the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. But also worth a visit is Shanti Stupa and Namgyal Tsemo Gompa. This monastery is the highest point in Leh with a fantastic birds eye view of the city. But be aware that if you’re still struggling with altitude sickness, the additional 200 metres can become a real challenge…

From just about everywhere in Leh, you can see a sweeping panoramic view of the Himalayas rising above town. Maybe it’s the vibes of these great mountains that make Leh such an incredible place!

In Leh, it’s the sights that act as a reminder of a spirit-centric population. There’s a great sense of peace in Ladakh, built on religious tolerance and respect for other cultures.

Leh Palace is the city’s dominant structure and architectural icon.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa is the highest point in Leh with a fantastic birds eye view of the city. One can reach the monastery with a short car ride or by trekking up right from the city centre.

Prayer wheels can be found across Leh. For us, they radiate peace and calmness, especially when in use…

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa was founded in the early 15th century by King Tashi Namgyal.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa stands atop behind Leh Palace. Because of its position, it offers some of the most amazing views of the town.

Leh Palace is a nine-storey dun-coloured palace that has great similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa (Tibet).

From just about everywhere in Leh (here we were on our way to Leh Palace) you get a sweeping panoramic view of the Himalayas rising above town.

Leh’s main Bazaar and the surrounding streets have numerous shops selling souvenirs, mostly Tibetan antiques or replicas.

Tibetan handicraft items including prayer wheels, Buddhist masks and paintings can be purchased at the markets in Leh.

Padang is the largest city on the western coast of Sumatra and the hopping off point for a trip to the Mentawai islands and this is why most tourists (especially surfers) come here. At first sight, it’s definitely not the postcard-perfect town, This is also why most of the tourists who come here don’t even bother to explore Padang and its surroundings further. It’s unfortunate for them because they’re missing out on stunningly beautiful trips (some of them are mentioned below), but good for people who want to enjoy this part of the world as it was, without tourists running around half naked as we see it every day in Bali. So for this, thanks to all those who want to get away from Padang as fast as possible. And terima kasih Sumatra, for being as beautiful and pristine as you were during my first visit back in 1996. You’re definitely one of my favourite travel destinations and one of the most amazing travel photography models!

 1. A Walk Through The Rice Fields.

Rice production in Indonesia is an important part of the national economy and Indonesia is the third-largest producer of rice in the world. Rice cultivation is well-suited to regions that have a warm climate, low labor costs and high amounts of rainfall as this staple crop is labor-intensive to cultivate and requires lots of water supply. Sumatra fulfils all of the above.

Although Indonesia is the third-largest country regarding global rice production, it’s still a rice importer. This situation is caused by farmers’ use of non-optimal production techniquesin combination with large per capita rice consumption. In fact, Indonesia has the largest per capita rice consumption in the world. Indonesians consume around 140 kilogram of rice per person per year.

The rice fields are worked by men and women equally.

 2. A Visit To A Surrounding Waterfall.

Be prepared for pure, natural and pristine nature. But also be prepared to share your walk with hundreds of leeches waiting to suck your blood. I’m not a wuss, but leeches are pretty much my least favourite animal on the planet. Especially when they come in multiple forms and numbers. I’m not exaggerating when I tell you that the ground was crawling! Would I do it again? Well, not for a while, although this trip will go down in history as my encounter with a moving ground of hundreds of blood suckers, which I’m sure I’ll tell my kids about someday…

The scenery looked very idyllic, yet the floor was moving with leeches.

The only reason I managed to get up to the waterfall was because I didn’t want my friend Niki to think I was a wuss.

3. A Visit To Indonesia’s Only Living Root Bridge, Jembatan Akar.

There are pretty amazing bridges all over the world. When the engineer is Mother Earth herself, an entirely different type of product is produced: a living bridge.

Located over the Batang Bayang river approximately 88 kilometres South of Padang, one of these bridges can be found – supposingly the only living root bridge in Indonesia. The bridge is known as Jembatan Akar. It was created in 1890 by a Muslim teacher by the name of Pakih Sohan. He wanted students living on the other side of the river to be able to attend his classes. By stringing the roots of two banyan trees around a stem bridge he made this happen – even though it took 26 years until the bridge could actually be used. Since our visit to Jembatan Akar we’ve also seen the most amazing of all living root bridges: Umshiang Double Decker Living Root Bridge. Nature is just unbelievable.

Indonesia’s living root bridge Jembatan Akar, located south of Padang in Sumatra.

Jembatan Akar is 25 metres long, approximately 1.5 metres wide and spans 3 metres above the river.

4. A Ride With A Bemo.

The main form of public transport in Padang is by bemo. It’s normally a minibus or van with a row of low seats down each side. Bemo usually hold about 12 people in very cramped conditions.

Riding bemo can be part of your Bali adventure or a major nightmare depending on your outlook at that moment in time. You can certainly expect journeys to be rather lengthy and you’ll find that getting to many places is both time-consuming and inconvenient. It’s uncommon to see visitors on bemos in Padang, so be sure to get a lot of attention.

Make sure you know where you’re going, and accept that the bemo normally won’t leave until it’s full and will usually take a roundabout route to collect and deliver as many passengers as possible. If you get into an empty bemo, always make it clear that you do not want to charter it. (The word ‘charter’ is understood by all drivers.)

The main bemo station is located right next to the market in Padang.

5. A Visit To The Market.

We love markets, especially wet markets. Not only will you see all sorts of interesting food stuff, but you will meet the local community. You’ll get an insight on their way of living and traditions when browsing through the various market section. Sumatrans friendly and helpful people, who respect and welcome visitors. No matter what situation, they always wear a smile.

Vendors at the wet market in Padang are happy to spot tourists and are always good for a laugh.

Fish is a staple food across the entire country. Fresh tuna can be bought at almost every local market in Sumatra. Sever hundred kilos of tuna are sold at the wet market in Padang every day.

6. Observe The Fishermen At Bungus Beach.

Indonesia is richly endowed with marine natural resources, and its people are highly dependent upon them for food. So fishing is one of the main incomes across Sumatra. At the beaches near Padang, fishing is very often done directly from the beach. This method is called seine fishing. A seine is a fishing net that hangs vertically in the water with its bottom edge held down by weights and its top edge buoyed by floats. Seine nets can be deployed from the shore as a beach seine, or from a boat. At Bungus beach, the nets are hauled in manually with pure man-power. The process actually takes quite long (up to three hours, depending one the size of the net) and the outcome is not always that satisfying.

After the nets are pulled in, it’s time to check-out the catch. At Bungus beach, the fish is sold right on the spot.

Fishermen hauling in a beach seine at Bungus beach in Sumatra, Indonesia.

7. Relax On One Of The Islands Near Padang.

Just off the coast of Padang, you will not only come across the well-known Mentawais, but hundreds of little islands with pristine beaches, palm trees and not a single soul in sight. Whether you want to stay at a beautiful beach resort like Cubadak Paradiso Village Resort, or a place with a Robinson Cruiso feeling, the choice is yours. But most importantly, a visit to these islands makes you feel like you’re in a far away place, with nothing to worry about except those possible coconuts falling on your head while sunbathing on the beach…

Tropical beach paradises can be found just off the coast of Padang.

8. Taste The Delicious Padang Kitchen.

A typical Padang kitchen restaurant displays their already cooked dishes in the front window. Once you take your seat, instead of handing you a menu, different food dishes will be brought to you in bowls. Pick out the ones you want to eat and leave the rest. When you’re done, the server will come back, take a look at the dishes, and look what you ate and what you left behind. Then he’ll move the remaining dishes back to the front window. You only pay for what you ate. Believe me when I say that Padang kitchen is one of the most delicious cuisines in the world and my absolute favourite in Indonesia!

Padang Kitchen is the best cuisine in the world. You’re served several different dishes on small plates. Only what you eat has to be paid.