Location.

Rating: 5 out of 5

Siem Reap is by far not a large town, yet you’ll find hotels located all over the place; many of them out of reach from the city centre (at least by foot), which doesn’t make them attractive for us (5 stars back and forth).

The Golden Banana hotel is located perfectly – not right in the centre, but still in walking distance. This will give you peace & quiet during the night, yet freedom to roam the streets of Siem Reap without having to rely on tuk-tuk drivers or hotel chauffeurs.

• Address: Golden Banana Lane, Phum Wat Damnak, Kum Sala Komreuk, Krom 10, Siem Reap, Cambodia
• Telephone Number: +855 (0)12 654 638
• Website: rambutans.info

Comfort Level.

Rating: 5 out of 5

Arriving in the small alley that leads to the hotel, wouldn’t make you think that any minute now you’re stepping into a little city oasis. But that’s exactly what happens.

The Golden Banana has four different hotels, all located next to each other. Depending on the room you booked, you’ll be living in one of these. We were at the Golden Banana Boutique Hotel – the smallest place out of the four – with about 7 double-decker villas, a lovely pool, as well as a dining/cocktail area.

Greeted with a friendly smile by one of the staff members, we took a seat while writing down our details and zipping fresh lime juice. Afterwards, we were lead to our apartment for the next 3 days.

Just to be clear, I did have some expectations of the way the hotel & its rooms looked, since we already stayed there 6 years ago (even though back then there was only one Golden Banana Hotel) & I was the one who booked the hotel. So I knew what it should look like … but you know how it is with hotel photos found on the internet … photoshop ahoy! This time our expectations where definitely exceeded; lots of space, lovely furniture and decorations, great balcony and amazing bed & bathroom – all set on two floors. It couldn’t get any better than this.

Big Plus:

• Guests can use all 4 facilities. You can sleep in one hotel, dine in the other and go swimming in the next – and all of this within approx. 50 metres!
• The hotel is located in a side street, so you won’t be bothered by loud noises during your sleep.
• Very gay friendly.

Food & Drinks.

Rating: 5 out of 5

We never understood why anyone would dine in their hotel when travelling. That is until we stayed at the Golden Banana hotel in Siem Reap.

After an exhausting day of 6-8 hours temple running at Angkor Wat, we weren’t able to walk another metre when returning to the hotel, so we decided to give the house kitchen a try … and we were (again) not disappointed. The food was delicious. The Cambodian cuisine like Fish Amok or Cambodian Curry was exquisite and we decided to eat here every night. After stuffing our bellies, we always treated ourselves to a couple of nice & refreshing cocktails – amazing cocktails that it! Best Mai Tai ever!

Service & Hospitality.

Rating: 5 out of 5

A lot of times when someone is really friendly to you, they want something; whether it’s money or something else – a hidden agenda is very common. Not at the Golden Banana Hotel. The staff is trained very well and you can see & feel the Western influence behind it. No one will try to rip you off and you will always get a fair price.
Example: we asked for a private taxi down to Phnom Penh and staff didn’t even charge any commission or tried to add a couple of dollars for themselves.

Big Plus:

• Free & working Wi-Fi

Price Range.

Rating: 5 out of 5

One would think that with all the amazing services mentioned above, the price must be the big downer. Think again! The Golden Banana Hotel offers a great & very fair overall package.

Here’s a quick overview of the most important:

Sleeping.

• 1 night per villa (including breakfast & free Wi-Fi): Starting at US$ 52

Food & Drinks.

• Dish: US$ 2.50 – 6.50
• Soft Drink: US$ 1.50 – 2.50
• Cocktail: US$ 4.00

Overall Feedback & Impression.

Rating: 5 out of 5 – well deserved!

Everything was perfect and there’s not a single thing we could complain about. It’s the best place to stay at in Siem Reap. Thanks for a lovely time! Also, there’s a new hotel in Phnom Penh, the Rambutan Resort, which we need to check out next time for sure!

The Golden Banana Hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia – Pool Area.

The Golden Banana Hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia – Pool View from Room.

The Golden Banana Hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia – Room View.

The Golden Banana Hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia – Bathroom.

The Golden Banana Hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia – Balcony.

The Golden Banana Hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia – Breakfast.

An Aspara dancer at Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

For most westerners, Angkor Wat induces an image of a lone European explorer hacking his way through the thick jungle of Cambodia when he by chance stumbling across the lost ruins of Angkor… Ruins, which turned out to become a wonder of the ancient world. To be frank, I was no different. Before I visited Angkor for the first time in 2007, I also thought that Henri Mouhot – a French naturalist – re-discovered these temples.

But this is just an urban myth; When Henri Mouhot came across the temples in 1860, Angkor was run-down, succumbing to nature and being in a serious state of disrepair, yet it was never lost as many people think… The location of all Angkor sites, which are on the tourist itinerary today, was always known to the Khmer and other westerners have been there before. Mouhot himself never claimed that he was the one to discover it, yet somehow he became associated with it.

Angkor Wat is the largest religious structure in the world. It’s the crowning achievement of the classical Khmer Empire, which once ruled most of Southeast Asia.

Personally I think it’s one of these sights every tourist and/or traveller should have seen at least once in their lifetime. Angkor’s many temples will capture you immediately – the area is truly magical and the atmosphere one of a kind.

The Obvious:

Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat is the main temple and largest monument of the Angkor group, as well as the best preserved. It’s truly an architectural masterpiece. The main tower represents the mountain “Meru”, which is the centre of the universe for Hindus & Buddhists. The best time to visit is just before sunset, when the sunlight directly hits the temple structure.

Style: Angkor Wat
Reign: Suryavarman II

The main temple Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

The main temple Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Ta Prohm.

Ta Phrom is definitely one of the most unique temples in Angkor. Unlike most temples, Ta Prohm has been left in much the same condition in which it was found. Trees growing out of the ruins give you the impression that the jungle is taking over.

Style: Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII, enlarged by Indravarman II

Ta Prohm temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Prohm temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Prohm temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Prohm temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Bayon.

Bayon is one of the most enigmatic and powerful religious constructions. Today the temple is best known for the gigantic face sculptures that adorn its 37 surviving towers, facing in four directions on each tower.

Style: Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII to Jayavarman VIII

Bayon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Bayon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Bayon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Bayon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

The Less Obvious:

Ta Som.

In spite of its ruinous state, Ta Som temple has a captivating beauty like very few of the Angkor temples. This comes from its remote location and the merge of nature with the temple. It’s located away from the crowds, and with continually growing plants and trees which makes visitors more curious to explore every dark corner of the temple.

Style: Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII

Ta Som temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Som temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Ta Som temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan.

Preah Khan is one of the largest Angkor temples, measuring 700 meters by 800 meters. It’s immense, beautiful and full of surprises. Definitely allow yourself that bit of extra time to see more than you’d expect in the first place.

Style: Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Preah Khan temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

East Mebon.

The lovely temple of Mebon is a pyramid of receding terraces. The sculpture at the East Mebon include two-meter-high free-standing stone elephants at corners of the first and second tiers.

Style: Pre Rup
Reign: Rajendravarman II

East Mebon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

East Mebon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

East Mebon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

East Mebon temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Banteay Kdei.

Banteay Kdei has not really been restored (yet they are working on it right now) and therefore allows the visitor to experience what it may have looked like originally.

Style: Angkor Wat/Bayon
Reign: Jayavarman VII

Banteay Kdei temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Banteay Kdei temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

This time, our destination is Southeast Asia; Malaysia, Cambodia and Indonesia to be exact. 4 weeks on the road. From temple running in Angkor, to shopping sprees in Kuala Lumpur, from a 10-hour-volcano-jungle-trek near Bukittingi to a quite beach holiday on the Mentawai Islands – we’ve got it all planned. We’re leaving today, so our bags are packed and now it’s all down to business!

And here are our travel essentials for a 4-week trip through Southeast Asia.

There are people who were really unlucky, who unwittingly stepped on a hidden danger – a landmine. Even nowadays not all areas in Cambodia and Laos are cleared of landmines. It’s a long and dangerous process and it will take another 10 to 20 years to declare Cambodia UXO (unexploded ordnance) free.

The sad truth is, that even today about 250 people step on such a device each year. Very often the victims are children who play in the fields, while not realizing that hidden dangers lure beneath them. In many cases, one dies right on the spot because the next hospital is far away and often there’s a lack of proper infrastructure to treat such traumas. If your survives such incident, the scars stay forever; a lost leg is the most common injury. In most cases, these people are no longer capable of taking on a job or continue the work they had. Therefore, you’ll see many people with bad disabilities begging in the streets, in front of market entrances, hotels or restaurants.

We’ve come across many landmine victims during our travels through Cambodia. The country and its people have faced many unbearable situations, which gives us the chills when thinking about it … There’s one story that still sticks as if we heard it yesterday: During our first visit back in 2006, we drove up to Angkor Wat with a local taxi driver. He showed us the area and knew a lot about the countries history. He told us about the time when the Khmer Rouge rose to power and the genocide of approx. 2 million Cambodians took its course. His entire family was slaughtered during the Pol Pot regime as well … What’s the appropriate way to react if someone tells you a horror story like that? He said it in a way as if he had made peace with history. After all, what else could he do? Still, the scars on the outside might heal but it will take more than one lifetime to forget …

Human skulls at the Killing Fields just outside of the capital city, Phnom Penh..

The landmines in Cambodia were placed by different factions clashed during the Civil War in Cambodia in the 1970s. They were placed in the whole territory of the country. Cambodia has some 40.000 amputees, which is one of the highest rates in the world.

Founded in 1997 by ex-child soldier Aki Ra, the Landmine Museum in Siam Reap tells the story of his rise from a 10 year old fighter in the Khmer Rouge to his present place as an internationally recognized hero.

Even today there are still about 200 landmine victims every year. Very often the victims are children who are playing in the fields while not being aware of the hidden danger that lures anywhere in this otherwise beautiful country.

The Museum tells the story of landmines in Cambodia and the country’s continuing efforts to rid itself of the aftermath of over 35 years of warfare. Here you can see landmines up close, find out how they work and how you can help Cambodia and the rest of the world in the on-going efforts of clearing these weapons from the face of the earth.

Tonle Sap Lake is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia and of great importance to Cambodia. It’s a bit more unusual than “normal” lakes: Its flow changes direction twice a year and the portion that forms the lake expands and shrinks dramatically with the seasons. This is why entire villages are dismantled due to the season and the waterline of the lake. Therefore most villages around the Great Lake have adjusted by living in so called “floating villages” on boats. They are home to a large Vietnamese & Cham community and they managed to adapt very well to the lake’s seasonal changes.

So, whether it’s the school or rubbish dump, living room or local store – the boat it not only the main transport system but also the grounding for every resident.

Chong Khneas is the name of famous floating village at the edge of the lake. It takes a 30-minute-car-ride  from Siem Reap to the boat dock where boats wait for visitors any given time of the day. The boat trip through the floating village takes approximately two hours. Be aware though, it’s total rip off! I’d never ever do it again, since this really is the worse I have ever experienced! Back when we visited the first time (over 10 years ago), the area wasn’t owned by a private company like today, therefore the floating village was still unique…sad to see what happened to this place!

Family life on Tonle Sap Lake. Five provinces circled the area of Tonle Sap Lake, more than three million of population inhabited around the bank of the Lake and 90% of them earn a living by catching fish and making agricultures.

Tonle Sap Lake is also an important commercial resource, providing more than half of the fish consumed in Cambodia.

Chong Khneas is the name of famous floating village at the edge of the lake. It locates at Southern part of Siem Reap town about 15 Km, and takes only 30 minutes by vehicles to the boat dock where there are always boats waiting for visitors. The boat trip through the floating village takes approximately two hours. Be aware, it’s TOTAL RIP OFF!

During rainy season from June to October, Tonle Sap Lake is filled by water flowing from the Mekong with 14 m in depth and expands the surface of 10.000 km2.

In dry season from November to May the size of Tonle Sap lake is 3.000 km2 with two meters in depth and water flows out from the Lake to the Mekong, in and out flowing is the natural phenomenon occurrences.

Chong Khneas was very interesting before, but now region is owned by private firm they increased the prices and the area looks very commercial.

The boat trip usually includes two stops: one at a touristy floating ‘fish and bird exhibition’ with a souvenir and snack shop, and the other at the Gecko Environment Centre, which offers displays and information introducing the ecology and biodiversity of the lake area.

During our first visit to Tonle Sap lake (over ten years ago), the floating village was still a really impressive sight. Today, it’s just a another tourist trap.

Unlike much of the Cambodian job opportunities, the income is also reliable, but life on the water is difficult. Fishermen sometimes travel two days to reach the middle of the lake and spend up to a week at a time out fishing. Large waves, limited food and dangerous conditions take their toll. The life expectancy of a fisherman is 54 years.

Because the water levels of Tonle Sap Lake differ so drastically in dry and rainy season, fishing families who make their living on the lake began living in floating villages which move with the changing water levels.

Tonle Sap Lake is so big, it can easily be mistaken for the ocean.

Important historical details about Angkor Wat.

What most people don’t know is that Angkor Wat (which literally means “City of Temple”) was actually the name of the main temple, not the entire complex. It was built in the time of King Suryavarman II in the 12th century and is the best-preserved & most visited temple at the site. The complete temple area was known only as Angkor (which is situated on the plain of present-day Siem Reap province north of the Great Lake of Tonle Sap) and it served as the seat of the Khmer Empire until the 15th century. Each king built at least one giant temple during his ruling, which led to a total size of 200km2.

Angkor Wat.

Second thing a lot of people don’t know: The discovery of Angkor by French explorer Henri Mouhot is a bit of a myth. It is said that he re-discovered Angkor Wat in 1860 and that he was the first European to visit the area; both of which is not true. Angkor was never really “lost”. The Khmer knew of the existence even after the kingdom broke down. Some of the temples have been used all the time by fishermen and farmers who lived in the surroundings. In the 16th century, Portuguese missionaries reached the city and even reported about it. The interests of the colonial powers seemed to have swept this under the table…

Angkor Wat temple built for king Suryavarman II.

Tourists at Angkor Wat.

The temple area of Angkor is the most famous tourist site in Cambodia. It has become a symbol of this country, also appearing on its national flag. More than two million visitors come here every year. For the country itself this is a good thing, because there’s not that many other tourist attractions but for the complex, it’s not that convenient. Why? Well, let me try to get this straight: The average person doesn’t really look our for anyone but themselves … and that’s the truth. I could give you a million examples but for Angkor Wat in particular, I’ll give you these two:

1.) During our visit in 2010, we saw how some tourists leaned on a clearly not stable part of a less known temple … Do I don’t have to tell you how the story ended? No. Did they report it? I wouldn’t count on it. Did we report it? Yes, but the guys that we told didn’t seem to care that much.

2.) Four million feet each year (including a couple of thousand from elephants as seen in the photo below) can’t be good for these grounds. But that’s just my opinion.

Obviously I was not the only one who thought this because nowadays, you’re not able to get to all the temples as easy anymore. Some parts are even cut off completely (for example the door of Ta Prohm temple also seen below). Maybe the perfect photograph is ruined this way, but after all we want to enjoy this magical place for much longer!

Millions of tourist visit Angkor Wat each year.

Tourist in front of the main temple at sunrise.

This is the absolute last thing we would ever do…

Of course it’s also possible to enjoy Angkor Wat without all the tourists. Just leave the normal path and you’re in the middle of a (almost spooky) jungle. The arsenal is so huge, you could walk for hours and maybe even get lost at some point…

Away from the tourist areas, Angkor can really be a bit spooky.

One of the faces at Bayon temple.

Impressive walls around the temples were built as well.

The jungle is taking over.

Not only the destruction of the temples is visible but also how the jungle is taking over the temple complex. It’s no wonder that Angkor Wat succumbed to the encroaching jungle…

The jungle is taking over at Angkor Wat.

The world famous Ta Prohm temple in 2007.

Workers try to keep Angkor Wat in a good stage.

Looks a bit like out of a science fiction movie…Taken in 2007.

Giant trees “eat” up the walls.

Giant trees literally “eat” up the temples.