The Capital Of Ladakh.

Leh lies at an altitude of 3.524 metres and due to the strong influence of Tibetan Buddhism, the city is also known as Little Tibet or the Land of Lamas. Although not as high as some of the passes across the Leh-Manali Highway, the atmosphere and especially the sky is exceptional. You’re closer to heaven and not only can you see, but feel it! Leh radiates something I can’t quite nail down. Something peaceful and mysterious at the same time. We felt like staying in an old western town with a gold-rush mood… the next three days would let us explore this amazing town and the beautiful surrounding Gompas.

Religious Tolerance And Respect For Cultures.

Even today the Jammu and Kashmir region is often in the news due to religious clashes. The dispute actually dates back to August 1947, when the partition of the Indian sub-continent led to the formation of India and Pakistan. Because of its location, Kashmir could choose to join either India or Pakistan. The ruler of Kashmir, Maharaja Hari Singh, was Hindu while the majority of the population were Muslims, therefore he wasn’t able to decide whether Kashmir should join India or Pakistan. In the end, Kashmir remained neutral. But his hopes of independence only lasted until October 1947, when Pakistan sent in Muslim tribesmen to Srinagar. The Maharaja then appealed to the Indian government for military assistance. In return, he signed the Instrument of Accession, which stated that Kashmir would join India on October 26, 1947, with a portion of it having passed to Pakistan’s control.

Since 1947, India and Pakistan have fought three wars and only this January, thousands of civilians have fled their homes, due to the clashes along the 200-kilometre stretch of the border. It’s unclear for how long this battle will continue.

But on the brighter side, Leh radiated a sense of calmness. At least we had that feeling. Here you can hear the muezzin, as well as the buddhists chantings. You’ll come across mosques, before passing a Tibetian prayer wheel. The architecture in the town also shows both Buddhist and Muslim styles. So what is it, that makes it possible for Muslims and Buddhists to leave peacefully side by side? Whether this is just the calm before the storm remains a mystery…

The Himalayas Lie At Your Feet.

Leh isn’t very big and most parts can be navigated on foot – which is the best way to explore any city anyway. There are many excellent guesthouses and mid-range hotels to choose from, as well as numerous restaurants serving great Indian, Tibetan and Western food. Best food place in town is definitely World Garden Cafe, where we actually ate something after three days of crackers and rice (it’s not India without a little vomiting). The most dominant structure is definitely Leh Palace built in the same style as the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. But also worth a visit is Shanti Stupa and Namgyal Tsemo Gompa. This monastery is the highest point in Leh with a fantastic birds eye view of the city. But be aware that if you’re still struggling with altitude sickness, the additional 200 metres can become a real challenge…

From just about everywhere in Leh, you can see a sweeping panoramic view of the Himalayas rising above town. Maybe it’s the vibes of these great mountains that make Leh such an incredible place!

In Leh, it’s the sights that act as a reminder of a spirit-centric population. There’s a great sense of peace in Ladakh, built on religious tolerance and respect for other cultures.

Leh Palace is the city’s dominant structure and architectural icon.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa is the highest point in Leh with a fantastic birds eye view of the city. One can reach the monastery with a short car ride or by trekking up right from the city centre.

Prayer wheels can be found across Leh. For us, they radiate peace and calmness, especially when in use…

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa was founded in the early 15th century by King Tashi Namgyal.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa stands atop behind Leh Palace. Because of its position, it offers some of the most amazing views of the town.

Leh Palace is a nine-storey dun-coloured palace that has great similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa (Tibet).

From just about everywhere in Leh (here we were on our way to Leh Palace) you get a sweeping panoramic view of the Himalayas rising above town.

Leh’s main Bazaar and the surrounding streets have numerous shops selling souvenirs, mostly Tibetan antiques or replicas.

Tibetan handicraft items including prayer wheels, Buddhist masks and paintings can be purchased at the markets in Leh.

Warning #2: Heavy flooding and landslides resulting from monsoon rains have caused many deaths. Please keep this in mind as you consider travel to Jammu and Kashmir is highly discouraged. The ability for foreign governments and Indian authorities to provide protection remains severely limited.

Well, two travel warnings are currently up for our first summer travel destination, Jammu and Kashmir. Still, nothing will keep us from exploring this far away place in northwest India.

The Journey Across The Challenging, Scary, Yet Sensational Leh-Manali Highway.

We’ll start our yearly summer adventure in Delhi. After buying the rest of our essentials here, we’ll board the train up to Kakla, from where it all takes its course.

Epic would be the best way to describe the Manali-Leh highway journey. The roads open up for only a couple of months during the year (between May/June and mid-October) with some of the most complicated and challenging roads in the world; with snow, kilometre-long traffic jams, landslides and difficult terrain, making the journey almost impossible for anything other than a good 4×4 vehicle – or some reckless motorcyclists. These 479 kilometres will challenge you, scare you and leave you utterly speechless. At least this is what I’ve heard…

Leh, Thikse Gompa, Chemrey Gompa, Pangong Tso, Lamayuru Gompa.

Jammu and Kashmir consists of three regions: Jammu, Kashmir Valley and Ladakh. And two capital cities; Srinagar is the summer capital, and Jammu is the winter capital. Ladakh, also known as Little Tibet, is renowned for its remote mountain beauty and Buddhist culture … and many Gompas (monasteries). Leh will be our base for most of the time. From here we’ll visit Thikse Gompa, Chemrey Gompa, Lamayuru Gompa and several others, as well as the stunningly beautiful Pangong Tso Lake.

Key Gompa To Varanasi.

Ten days is definitely not a lot of time to explore this region, but travelling to many places with only limited time available is our specialty. Our Ladakh route will end with a trip to Key Gompa in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh. From here, it’s back to Kalka to catch the overnight train to the holy city Varanasi…

Travel map for our Kashmir road trip in July 2015.