There are two kinds of people – those who’ll go to a market to buy fish and those who won’t. Markets (especially fish markets) can be stinky, and many of us would rather go to the supermarket. We love markets not only because of the great photo opportunities, but because this where the real deal happens. Sassoon Docks is one of the largest fish markets in the city and for us, it was just the right spot to go to. Turns out that the Sassoon Docks is also one of the oldest docks in Mumbai (142 years), and one of the few docks in the city open to the public.

Where Modern And Traditional Lives Cross.

The entrance looks like the gateway of a fortress, but we knew we were at the right spot when the salty whiff of the ocean and the scent of fish greeted us from afar. More and more people shoving large boxes of fish crossed our path and we knew that we were getting closer. What we didn’t know then is that the Sassoon Docks just recently got a funky street-art turnover called Sassoon Dock Art Project as part of the St+art Mumbai 2017 Urban Art Festival. Despite its historical value and with Mumbai’s try to escape its fishy roots, this place has rather been avoided by Mumbaikars. Like the docks, the memory of Mumbai’s Koli past is all but wiped clear.

The Sassoon Dog is hard to miss when walking along the Sassoon Docks in Mumbai.

Koli women are crucial to the running of the fishing trade at the Sassoon Docks and multiple installations and paintings are built around them.

St+art India is dedicated to making art public, taking it out from niche spaces of galleries and museums and the Sassoon Docks in Mumbai where just the right spot to shed light on this historic party of the city again.

Home Of The Koli People.

The Sassoon Dock in Mumbai is home to the city’s traditional Koli fishing community. The Koli people are an ethnic Indian group native to Maharashtra, Gujarat, Rajasthan, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana states. It’s believed that the Koli people are Mumbai’s original inhabitants and whose goddess Mumbadevi lends her name to the city. The communities have thrived in the hidden quarters of the city, the koliwadas, which essentially means “a home that opens to the sea“. Much of the art here represents the lived realities of the Koli community – its people, their trade and its smell.

The art project started on November 11 and will run until December 30, 2017. Whether the Sassoon Docks will still be visited as frequently after, is unclear. After all, all the art in the world can’t make the notorious smell, the endless heat and the piercing noise – which are a few reasons people have not come here before – go away.

This has been our second visit to Sassoon Docks and tourists are still a rare sight here. The art installation has brought some upwind, yet only the eager and especially smell-resistent make it all the way to the end of the docks.

Currently, about 1,500 trawlers operate at the Sassoon Docks, bringing in around 20 tonnes of fish every day.

Once you reach the Sassoon Docks, at least 500 people are packed on to a partially-covered chunk of jetty, boats bobbing alongside.

A typical day at Sassoon Docks begins at 5 am when the fresh catch is brought in from the sea.

Over 150.000 people depend on the Sassoon Docks for their livelihood.

Men push loaded handcarts through the crowds at Sassoon Docks as they yell for people to get out of the way.

Despite the fact that most tourist wouldn’t buy fish at Sassoon Docks, women holding tubs full of fish will still ask you.

The docks were built in 1875 by the merchant, Sir Albert Abdullah David Sassoon, a prominent member of the Bombay Jewish community.

Where there’s fresh fish, there needs to be crushed ice. While fish is unloaded off the boats, tons of ice is crushed to keep the fish fresh at the Sassoon Docks.

There are so many ice-trucks on Sassoon Docks, that counting them would be impossible.

In addition to the jetty, the Sassoon Docks house a series of warehouses where the Koli fisherwomen shell prawns with staggering ability.

The sheer variety of fish on offer at Sassoon Docks is mind-blowing: red snapper, tuna, octopus, baby sharks, cuttlefish, blue crabs and stingray are some of the fish you can expect to find here.

Initially, the Sassoon Docks serviced the cotton trade as the Sassoon family were cotton merchants. It was after the decline of the Indian cotton industry that fishing became the main activity here.

The Sassoon Docks are ‘wet’ docks, which means it allows boats to enter at all times because the water level remains the same regardless of the tide.

Wherever you arrive in Mumbai, you’ll immediately notice that auto rickshaws, bicycle rickshaws and motorbikes are non existent. This makes you taxi bound, and forces you to memorise as many bus routes as you can. Or, you simply decide to check out the area by foot, which is our favourite way of getting around. Mumbai has several must visit places, but for first time visitors, there are a few that really shouldn’t be missed.

#1 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: The Gateway Of India.

Of course the Gateway of India is the must visit sight when coming to Mumbai. In earlier times, it would have been the first structure that visitors arriving by boat would have seen. And still today, it’s one of those monuments you’ll never forget.

We first arrived here on a Sunday, which is most probably the worst day of the week to explore the Gateway of India. The waiting line was about two kilometres long! Especially the men’s line was endless, but even the ladies line was too crowded. We gave up immediately and decided to come back the next day. The situation looked a lot different on Monday morning. The access was almost deserted and we could enter without waiting. We hopped on a boat cruise to get a better overview. The cruise takes about one hour and gives you the impression of what it must have felt like to arrive here back in the days.

The Gateway of India was erected to commemorate the landing of King George V and Queen Mary when they visited India in 1911. Today, it is one of India’s most iconic structures.

A Mumbai boat cruise at dawn will provide you with perfect photo opportunities.

The Gateway of India is the stepping-off point for cruises around the natural harbour of Mumbai.

The Gateway of India, as well as the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel are two of the most iconic buildings in Mumbai, visited by thousands of tourists every day.

#2 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus.

Formerly known as Victoria Terminus, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an historic railway station. It’s a masterpiece of Victorian Gothic architecture. The station was built in 1887 to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. You’d expect the inside to be just as extravagant, but its interior is far less impressive. Still, keep in mind that this railway station is the busiest in the world, with three million passengers passing through every single day!

Mumbai’s local trains are called the city’s lifeline for a reason. The number of passengers they carry every day is larger than the population of some countries. Victoria Station is one of the largest train stations (according to daily travellers) in the world.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus is an outstanding example of the meeting of two cultures, as British architects worked with Indian craftsmen to include Indian architectural tradition.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus was built over 10 years, starting in 1878, according to a High Victorian Gothic design.

The Mumbai suburban railway operates 2.342 train services. The local trains are the primary mode of transport for hundreds and thousands of people who travel for as many as five hours every day to and from work.

#3 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: The Sassoon Docks.

Sassoon Docks is the largest wholesale fish market in Mumbai. Arrive in the morning to see hundreds of women pulling shrimps, boats arriving with their catch and men auctioning off the fresh fish right on the spot.

These men at Sassoon Docks are refilling the boats with crushed ice for their next trip out to sea.

At the Sassoon Docks you’ll come across all varieties of sea creatures.

Only women are pulling shrimps while chatting along at the Sassoon Docks.

These men at the Sassoon Docks are filling up trailers with crushed ice, which are then pulled to the boats and packed into the stowage for the next trip out to sea.

This wholesale trader at the Sassoon Docks counts his money after a busy morning.

#4 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Home Of The Jungle Book Author Rudyard Kipling.

Joseph Rudyard Kipling was an English writer, born in Mumbai on December 30, 1865. The bungalow he was born in 151 years ago has since been rebuilt, but the peeling mint green-painted wooden cottage, where trees lean against its roof, occupied only by birds and bats, stands in its place and radiates the kind of atmosphere you’d expect when reading his most famous work The Jungle Book.

The bungalow is located in the corner of the Sir J.J. School of Art compound, not far from one of the busiest boulevards in Mumbai.

It’s actually not allowed to enter the area, we were immediately advised to leave, but it’s said that the Kipling House shall be converted into a tourist attraction.

An ornate metal plaque at the entrance of the cottage is engraved with the words, “Rudyard Kipling, son of Lockwood Kipling, first principal of Sir J. J. School of Art, was born here on 30.12.1865.”

#5 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery.

We came across Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery by accident, but the smell of fresh Chai tea and bread immediately caught our attention. All products in the bakery are handmade and are absolutely delicious! It was a great change to the Indian cuisine we’ve had for the past weeks and we even felt like home for a moment (also thanks to all the German posters on the wall). Definitely one of the best bakeries in town!

Yazdani Restaurant & Baker in Mumbai draws in a lot of visitors, particularly international visitors – especially Germans, thanks to a lot of German signs like here.

A peek into the kitchen and you will see several bakers working: greasing pans, cleaning the raisins and weighing the dough. Yazdani Bakery makes approximately 6.000 pavs (bread buns) each day.

Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery was opened in Mumbai in 1953 by Meherwan Zend. Today, the three brothers, Rashid, Zend, Parvez and his son, Tirandaz run the bakery.

The name Yazdani originates from the town of Yazd, which is the capital of the Yazd Province in Iran, a hub of Iranian culture.

#6 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Dhobi Ghat Laundry District.

There are several Dhobi Ghats in Mumbai, but Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat is the most famous and the largest unmechanized laundry facility and in the world. A dhobi is a laundryman who collects dirty linens from hotels, restaurants and homes and returns them washed and neatly folded from open-air laundromats known as ghats.

Approximately 700 dhobis live and work in the laundry colony Mahalakshmi, washing an average of 1 million pieces of clothing every day.

The area of Mahalakshmi extends across several city blocks and has many winding alleys, workrooms and semi-covered subsections of aluminum siding.

If you want to enter Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat, you will be asked for money, since this place has become such a tourist attraction.

You will find every piece of clothing there is at Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat – from socks to linen.

#7 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: The Real Slumdog Millionaires.

Some might find a visit to the slum areas morbid, but you can’t ignore the fact that approximately 60% of Mumbai’s population lives in slums. If you really want to get a sense of how the Mumbaikers manage their daily routine, then we’d suggest to take a ride with one of the many commuter trains that ply the area. If you get out at Bandra railway station for example, you’ll be right in the middle of on of the biggest slums in Mumbai.

There are many slum areas in Mumbai, with Dharavi as Asia’s largest. It is home to approximately 1 million people.

“Poverty porn” oder social tourism? At the least, a visit to some of Mumbai slum areas will give you an insight on what is feel like living in these conditions.

The slums in Mumbai are a city within a city.

#8 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Oval Maidan.

Oval Maidan is a park located in an upscale area, with all the embassies and large company headquarters around. On Sundays, thousands of people gather here top play a game cricket, or to enjoy a picknick with friends. It’s a great spot to get aways from the busier side of Mumbai for a while.

Oval Maidan is the perfect spot to get away from Mumbai’s busy life.

If you come at the right time and are lucky, you’ll be able to experience Oval Maidan without crowds of people – which is very unusual for one of Indias busiest cities.

#9 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Marine Drive.

We walked along the 3.5 kilometre-long boulevard from the southern tip all the way to Chowpatty Beach, which is located in the area where the Mumbai Opera House is situated. It’s a recreation area and lots of Mumbaikers flock the beach on weekends. The rich and famous of Mumbai show off their newly bought Ferraris, Audis and BMW’s here. It really gives you a sense that on one hand, Mumbai is home to millions of underprivileged people, and on the other hand some of Indias richest and most powerful.

Marine Drive is a 3.6-kilometre-long boulevard in South Mumbai in the city of Mumbai. The road was constructed by late philanthropist Bhagojisheth Keer & Pallonji Mistry.

You’ll get an amazing view of Mumbai’s skyline when walking along Marine Drive.

#10 Must Visit Sight In Mumbai: Haji Ali Dargah

Haji Ali Dargah is one of the most popular religious places in Mumbai, visited by people of all religions. It’s also one of India’s most famous and prestigious landmarks situated in the middle of the Arabian Sea off Lala Lajpatrai Marg. Haji Ali Dargah is only accessible via a narrow road that disappears underwater at high tide.

Built in 1431, this Mughal-style architectural marvel serves as a reminder of the city’s rich and multicultural history. The six-hundred-year-old dargah is dedicated to the memory of Sayyed Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari. Sitting atop a set of large rocks in the sea, the Haji Ali Dargah features stunning white-marble pillars, domes and minarets, which showcase Indo-Islamic architecture at its finest.

The view from the Haji Ali Dargah is spectacular and offers a fairly quite spot in busy Mumbai.

Agrasen Ki Baoli was on our list, yet getting there seemed to be more difficult than expected. Three different tuk-tuk drivers, as well as several passer-by’s, didn’t know what we were talking about. In the end, we ended up at a minor Taj Mahal look-alike, which we then learned was Safdarjung’s Tomb.

Safdarjung’s Tomb was built in 1753 – 54 by Shuja-ud-Daulah as a tribute to his fathers memory, Safdarjung and is a pretty impressive building. After entering through the double storey gateway, you’ll forget all about the noisy street life you just came from. In the centre of the garden, the mausoleum rises gracefully from a high platform.

We spend the afternoon strolling through the gardens and soaked up the energetic atmosphere of this rather unknown Delhi tourist attraction.

Safdarjung’s Tomb Facts:

• Location: Intersection of Safdarjung Road and Aurobindo Marg
• Metro Station: Jorbagh
• Open: Daily from sunrise to sunset
• Entry Fee: 15 Rupees (Indians), 200 Rupees (foreigners)
• Photography Charges: Free (still camera), 25 Rupees (video camera)

Enclosed to the gateway to Safdarjung’s Tomb is the wall surrounding the monument. Channels running above the wall carry water to the different pavilions.

Safdarjung’s Tomb is a double storey mausoleum built with red and buff sandstone. The garden is divided into four squares by side pathways and tanks which are again divided into smaller squares and pathways.

Safdarjung’s Tomb has a central chamber surrounded by eight apartments around it.

The three-domed mosque within the complex is located to the right side of the entrance gate (left side once you’re inside the complex) of Safdarjung’s Tomb.

Safdarjung Tomb is the last monumental tomb garden of the Mughals.

Apart from one or the other Indian couple, Safdarjung’s Tomb is not a major tourist attraction, which makes it the perfect place to spend some time away from noisy and busy central Delhi.

The Capital Of Ladakh.

Leh lies at an altitude of 3.524 metres and due to the strong influence of Tibetan Buddhism, the city is also known as Little Tibet or the Land of Lamas. Although not as high as some of the passes across the Leh-Manali Highway, the atmosphere and especially the sky is exceptional. You’re closer to heaven and not only can you see, but feel it! Leh radiates something I can’t quite nail down. Something peaceful and mysterious at the same time. We felt like staying in an old western town with a gold-rush mood… the next three days would let us explore this amazing town and the beautiful surrounding Gompas.

Religious Tolerance And Respect For Cultures.

Even today the Jammu and Kashmir region is often in the news due to religious clashes. The dispute actually dates back to August 1947, when the partition of the Indian sub-continent led to the formation of India and Pakistan. Because of its location, Kashmir could choose to join either India or Pakistan. The ruler of Kashmir, Maharaja Hari Singh, was Hindu while the majority of the population were Muslims, therefore he wasn’t able to decide whether Kashmir should join India or Pakistan. In the end, Kashmir remained neutral. But his hopes of independence only lasted until October 1947, when Pakistan sent in Muslim tribesmen to Srinagar. The Maharaja then appealed to the Indian government for military assistance. In return, he signed the Instrument of Accession, which stated that Kashmir would join India on October 26, 1947, with a portion of it having passed to Pakistan’s control.

Since 1947, India and Pakistan have fought three wars and only this January, thousands of civilians have fled their homes, due to the clashes along the 200-kilometre stretch of the border. It’s unclear for how long this battle will continue.

But on the brighter side, Leh radiated a sense of calmness. At least we had that feeling. Here you can hear the muezzin, as well as the buddhists chantings. You’ll come across mosques, before passing a Tibetian prayer wheel. The architecture in the town also shows both Buddhist and Muslim styles. So what is it, that makes it possible for Muslims and Buddhists to leave peacefully side by side? Whether this is just the calm before the storm remains a mystery…

The Himalayas Lie At Your Feet.

Leh isn’t very big and most parts can be navigated on foot – which is the best way to explore any city anyway. There are many excellent guesthouses and mid-range hotels to choose from, as well as numerous restaurants serving great Indian, Tibetan and Western food. Best food place in town is definitely World Garden Cafe, where we actually ate something after three days of crackers and rice (it’s not India without a little vomiting). The most dominant structure is definitely Leh Palace built in the same style as the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. But also worth a visit is Shanti Stupa and Namgyal Tsemo Gompa. This monastery is the highest point in Leh with a fantastic birds eye view of the city. But be aware that if you’re still struggling with altitude sickness, the additional 200 metres can become a real challenge…

From just about everywhere in Leh, you can see a sweeping panoramic view of the Himalayas rising above town. Maybe it’s the vibes of these great mountains that make Leh such an incredible place!

In Leh, it’s the sights that act as a reminder of a spirit-centric population. There’s a great sense of peace in Ladakh, built on religious tolerance and respect for other cultures.

Leh Palace is the city’s dominant structure and architectural icon.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa is the highest point in Leh with a fantastic birds eye view of the city. One can reach the monastery with a short car ride or by trekking up right from the city centre.

Prayer wheels can be found across Leh. For us, they radiate peace and calmness, especially when in use…

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa was founded in the early 15th century by King Tashi Namgyal.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa stands atop behind Leh Palace. Because of its position, it offers some of the most amazing views of the town.

Leh Palace is a nine-storey dun-coloured palace that has great similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa (Tibet).

From just about everywhere in Leh (here we were on our way to Leh Palace) you get a sweeping panoramic view of the Himalayas rising above town.

Leh’s main Bazaar and the surrounding streets have numerous shops selling souvenirs, mostly Tibetan antiques or replicas.

Tibetan handicraft items including prayer wheels, Buddhist masks and paintings can be purchased at the markets in Leh.

Warning #2: Heavy flooding and landslides resulting from monsoon rains have caused many deaths. Please keep this in mind as you consider travel to Jammu and Kashmir is highly discouraged. The ability for foreign governments and Indian authorities to provide protection remains severely limited.

Well, two travel warnings are currently up for our first summer travel destination, Jammu and Kashmir. Still, nothing will keep us from exploring this far away place in northwest India.

The Journey Across The Challenging, Scary, Yet Sensational Leh-Manali Highway.

We’ll start our yearly summer adventure in Delhi. After buying the rest of our essentials here, we’ll board the train up to Kakla, from where it all takes its course.

Epic would be the best way to describe the Manali-Leh highway journey. The roads open up for only a couple of months during the year (between May/June and mid-October) with some of the most complicated and challenging roads in the world; with snow, kilometre-long traffic jams, landslides and difficult terrain, making the journey almost impossible for anything other than a good 4×4 vehicle – or some reckless motorcyclists. These 479 kilometres will challenge you, scare you and leave you utterly speechless. At least this is what I’ve heard…

Leh, Thikse Gompa, Chemrey Gompa, Pangong Tso, Lamayuru Gompa.

Jammu and Kashmir consists of three regions: Jammu, Kashmir Valley and Ladakh. And two capital cities; Srinagar is the summer capital, and Jammu is the winter capital. Ladakh, also known as Little Tibet, is renowned for its remote mountain beauty and Buddhist culture … and many Gompas (monasteries). Leh will be our base for most of the time. From here we’ll visit Thikse Gompa, Chemrey Gompa, Lamayuru Gompa and several others, as well as the stunningly beautiful Pangong Tso Lake.

Key Gompa To Varanasi.

Ten days is definitely not a lot of time to explore this region, but travelling to many places with only limited time available is our specialty. Our Ladakh route will end with a trip to Key Gompa in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh. From here, it’s back to Kalka to catch the overnight train to the holy city Varanasi…

Travel map for our Kashmir road trip in July 2015.

The Legend Of Holi.

Holika (from where Holi comes from) was a female demon, and the sister of Hiranyakashyap, the demon king who considered himself ruler of the Universe and commanded everybody in his kingdom to worship only him. Prahalad was the king’s son. His father hated him because Prahalad was a faithful devotee of the God Vishnu, not him. One day the king asked him “Who is the greatest,Vishnu or I?” “Vishnu is,” said the son, “you are only a king.” The king was furious and decided to murder his son. He tried several ways to kill his son, but failed every time; Prahalad survived being thrown over a cliff, being trampled by elephants, bitten by snakes, and attacked by soldiers. So the king asked his sister, Holika, to kill the boy. Holika captured Prahalad and sat in the middle of a fire with the boy on her lap. Since Holika had been given a magic power by the Gods that made her immune to fire, Prahalad would burn to death while she remained alive. But because Holika used her gift to do something evil, her power vanished and she was burned to ashes. Prahalad stayed true to his God, Vishnu who protected him, and Prahalad survived.

Therefore Holi is celebrated as a festival of the victory of good over evil.  In many parts of India, the dummy of Holika is burned on large bonfires.

How We Ended Up Celebrating Holi.

We ended up celebrating this festival while travelling through northeast India. All over sudden we were covered in colourful dust while searching for our hotel in Kalimpong, West Bengal. We just threw our bags into the room and went with the flow.

Although Holi has religious roots, not much religious activity is involved in its celebration anymore. It’s the most energetic Indian festival, filled with fun and humour – even the strict rules of separation between castes are abandoned during the festival; it simply connects people. They’re dancing through the streets, accompanied by trucks with music equipment to get the tensions really high.

We had the opportunity to sit up on one of these floats. It was totally crazy, with people throwing colourful powders, dancing and unbearable noise.

There’s A Down Side To The Holi Festival.

The down side of the Holi festival is that these colours are all highly toxic! You don’t feel it immediately, but they’re also capable of causing serious skin complications and allergies. The artificial colours that are used are structured polymers and are next to impossible to decompose biologically. Every year, people die from poisoning from colored powder and water used during Holi celebrations…

Weeks before the Holi festival takes place, toxic colours can be bough in every street.

Holi is celebrated at the approach of vernal equinox, during full moon. The festival date varies every year, per the Hindu calendar, and typically comes in March.

Holi is one of the major festival of India and is the most vibrant of all.

During the Holi festival, there is no getting away from colours being thrown at you.

The festival signifies the victory of good over evil, the arrival of spring, end of winter, and for many a festive day to meet others, play and laugh, forget and forgive, and repair ruptured relationships.

This truck was re-arranged as a music float leading the crowd of people through Kalimpong during the Holi celebration.

Holi is the most energetic Indian festival, filled with fun and humour.

Old and young celebrate during the Holi festival.

The Holi festival connects people. They’re dancing through the streets, accompanied by trucks with music equipment to get the tensions really high.

You can still feel the aftermath of the Holi festival days after…

Dreams Can Come True.

Coming from the Indian mainland, with quite often dirty & polluted beaches, street chaos and masses of people, this island was just what we needed: the complete opposite … imagine Bali back in the early 80s.

Tourist facilities (like accommodation and restaurants) are abundant, but everything still seems a bit behind. Simple bamboo huts arranged under swaying coconut trees is as good as it gets – and that’s pretty darn good anyway! Combine this with with white sandy beaches and crystal clear turquoise water and Havelock is what you’re paradise dream looks like. For us this dream became reality after a 4-hour boat ride from Port Blair.

Havelock, Oh Havelock.

We stayed in one of the beach accommodations. During the rainy season (which is of course when we decided to visit paradise), not all hotels are open, but during high season there are a lot to choose from – no need for pre-booking. Havelock is not overpopulated, the village is small with a big open air market, various food stores and some restaurants catering mainly for Indian tourists, though the steady stream of westerners is growing. Apart from the islands beautiful beaches, Havelocks inner part is jungle country with many rice paddies in between; the Andaman Islands are actually pretty self sufficient when it comes to rice. The pace of life is slow, the locals are friendly and still not too affected by tourism – thanks God for that!

Beach, Beach, Beach.

There a couple of stunningly beautiful beaches on Havelock island. Most of them can be describes as tropical paradises beaches with the oceans being more of a natural swimming pool. But be aware: even though the water is calm most of the time, it can get pretty rough as well. Oh and one more thing: Havelock island is a pretty wild place and it’s possible to see many types of wild animals … including crocodiles – salt water crocodiles to be exact. Years ago an American tourist was taken by a salt croc. Don’t be put off by this incident though. We suggest to ask around the local community for recent incidents (a local ranger has also been taken in 2011), as not every single one is recorded – unless a westerner is involved of course. Also check the local media, since they’ll report if you shouldn’t enter the water due to crocodile activity.

Vijaynagar Beach.

One of these beaches is a stretch close to the jetty where all boats from Port Blair arrive, called Vijaynagar beach. Various guest-houses and hotels, tucked away in the coconut groves (some hotels are even 3 or 4 star hotels) can be found along the stretch of approximately 3 kilometres. Restaurants are mainly situated on the inland side of the beach road. An irregular public bus service plies the route along the coastal road up to some little villages in the island’s inner part. There are no bus stops – simply tell the driver where you want to get off. Or you can hire a tuk-tuk for further exploration of the island.

• Tip: Early in the afternoon the bus is mainly frequented by children going home from school so you’ll get a lot of attention when taking this bus.

Radhanagar Beach.

The second well-known beach on Havelock island is on the other side, called Radhanagar beach. You’ll find accommodation here as well, but this beach is mostly frequented by day-trippers. Occasionally hit by really big waves, you have to watch out even if lifeguards are on duty because currents can become quite strong. Still, the long stretch of white sand is very welcoming and you could spend an entire day walking along the shores. A frequent public bus is available from the main village (take-off at the only roundabout in town) to Radhanagar. Be aware though, we’ve never been on a trip with a crazier bus driver than this one – even the locals get scared when he drives! If you prefer to go by bicycle, just rent one in of the stores. Still, you better watch out if this bus crosses your way. We actually met someone who jumped into the bushes with his bike because the bus would have just run him over…

Elephant Beach.

Elephant beach can be reached after a 40 minute-walk through the jungle. Walking always means that less people (lazy bums), which is an advantage because then you’ll have the place all to yourself. Bring food and drinks when doing this excursion, because there are no restaurants or street vendors around.

• Note: Some of you might think that this is the beach where Rajan, the famous 63-year-old swimming elephant, can be found. Well, he might be on the island somewhere (actually Radhanagar beach is supposed to be his home beach), but unfortunately he didn’t cross our way…

Vijaynagar Beach during high tide.

Radhanagar Beach on Havelock Island. Not sure if we’d like to rely on the lifeguards…

Little huts right next to the beach on Havelock Island.

The beaches on Havelock Islands are really beautiful and not too many tourists come here.

Exotic beaches are bordered by coconut-palm trees on the Andaman Islands.

The far end of Vijaynagar beach on Havelock Island.

Hundreds of palm trees behind Vijaynagar beach on Havelock Island.

A cute crab on Elephant beach on Havelock Island.

A paddy field worker on Havelock Island.

Mechua Market.

The men at Mechua market are in charge of oranges, bananas, pineapples, pomegranate and many other fruits of the season. Trucks arrive 24/7 and wait in the surrounding areas to get a parking lot to be unloaded. Most of the fruits are sold right on the spot. Men carrying trunks of bananas show up in front of an auctioneer and after a quick bidding session, the trunk is sold and the next man with another banana trunk takes place. With this system, an entire truckload of fruits is quickly sold to people who distribute them to different places all over West Bengal.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India

Portrait of a hard working man at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working man at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Fresh pomegranate at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India

Unloading a truck at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Kolay Market.

Pretty much the same goes for Kolay market just opposite Sealdah Train station. This is the place for cucumbers, onions, pumpkins, eggplant and any other vegetable of the season. Men, day labours – mostly from Bihar – work in long shifts to unload trucks that arrive from all over West Bengal. They earn about 500 Rupees (4-6 €) a day and travel home to their families only once a year. Needless to say, this work is taking it’s toll on their health… They sleep in dormitories in the first floors of the warehouses just above their workplace, so if a truck arrives, they are ready to unload immediately.

Hard working men at Kolay Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Kolay Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Kolay Market in Kolkata, India.

Selling fresh vegetables at Kolay Market in Kolkata, India.

Posta Burrabazar.

For garlic and ginger you have to travel to another area in the city. This market is close to Howrah bridge not too far away from the Mullik Ghat flower market on the way to Nimtala burning Ghat. You smell the loads of garlic that are repacked into smaller quantities immediately. This work is mostly done by women.

Street scene at Posta Burrabazar in Kolkata, India.

At Mullik Ghat flower market near Howrah bridge in Kolkata, India.

If you want to see what it’s like to walk through these markets, check out the videos in this post.

Booking the trip from from Port Blair via Kolkata was a bit challenging from Guwahati. Due to the heavy monsoon in Megahalya the internet connectivity was often interrupted. So we didn’t have the time to check out these islands thoroughly and were on our way faster than expected.

If you have a lot of time and are up for adventure, take the ferry ship from Kolkata to Port Blair, Andaman Islands.

The flight with Indigo was smooth except for the last fifteen minutes; then it got a bit bumpy and the look out of the window showed thick clouds…

Nevertheless, the landing went smoothly and Port Blair greeted us with tiny sun-rays after a heavy thunderstorm. Custom officers picked us out immediately to provide us with this very important special permit – without it, you can’t travel anywhere on the Andaman Islands since police checks are very common.

The main street in Port Blair, Andaman Islands.

After checking into Aashiana Residency guest house, we immediately walked to the jetty nearby to get tickets for the next day to Long Island. Booking the tickets for the ferry was a bit time consuming all over the Andaman Islands. As was getting a bus ticket. Try to bring several passport and visa copies, plus some copies of the special permit because authorities and hotels will ask for it on every occasion. If you’re female, insist on a “lady-line” – even if there doesn’t seem to be one. This will at least reduce your waiting time. So after a bit of a hassle (which is normal all over India), we finally got our tickets.

Our ferry “Jolly Buoy” waiting in Port Blair’s harbour.

The passenger cabin of the ferry “Jolly Buoy”, Andaman Islands.

Transport & Hotels in General.

There are some rather basic hotels in some of the towns, as well as some bus companies, that wont take on a foreigner. This is because these businesses don’t have the licence to take on foreign nationals. We didn’t know that at first and got the explanation only after it happened the second time. It’s not a real problem, but you should just calculate a little more time to find the right company to continue your trip. It’s better not to be in a hurry…

Overall, transport possibilities on the Andaman Islands are excellent; ferries, buses and private Jeeps are available at all arrival points, so if you step off a ferry, a waiting taxi or a bus is almost always available. The only bus that needs to be pre-booked in any case is the bus from Port Blair to Diglipur, because there is no regular bus connection between these two towns. So after the seats are full, there’s no other way to get there by public transport. In major towns like Rangat, Mayabundar and Diglipur, accommodation with some western standard are available … just tell the driver to let you out in front of one of these hotels. Don’t count on any internet connection, and mobile phones reception in many areas … at certain points during our trip here, we felt like time on the Andaman Islands simply stood still. But then again, it does feel pretty nice to be offline for a while as well.

We’ll write about our adventures, experiences and impressions on the Andaman Islands soon, so stay tuned.