Travel Photography Blog by Nisa Maier and Ulli Maier. » Day Hike

Strada delle 52 Gallerie: A Historic Hike Through The Dolomites.

Ulli — Sun, 04 Sep 2016 17:47:00 +0000

We’ve been longing to visit Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen) for years and actually thought that we could finally put an end to our Dolomites-starvation. But this part of Italy is packed during summer season, so we had to postpone yet again. Thousands of tourists in a serene area is definitely not what we were after. So, after browsing through several mountain-hike websites, we came across the historic Strada delle 52 Gallerie, or as it’s known in English: The road of 52 tunnels.

From Vienna To Passo di Xomo.

From Vienna it’s an 800 km drive until you reach Passo di Xomo, which is the starting off point. The drive itself is a pleasure, because the scenery makes up for the hours of driving. Still, it’s a long way to go with a camper van and we only arrived far after lunch. Therefore we decided to spend the night at Rifugio Passo Xomo (approx. 50 € per room). Early the next morning we drove up the remaining 4 km to Bocchetta Campiglia from where the hike begins. You can park your car here for 6 € per day.

Tunnels 1 to 52.

The road of 52 tunnels is not just any hike; it’s a hike through history. This military mountain road was built during World War I. It was (and still is) a real masterpiece of military engineering and boldness, considering the conditions back then. It was constructed in just 10 months (!) from February to November 1917 under the guidance of Lieutenant Joseph Zappa. It’s hard to imagine how soldiers carried up supplies and minors built these mountain tunnels in the middle of winter.

The hike itself is rather easy, though enduring due to its length of 6.5 kilometres and the elevation gain (with an average 12% grade). There are plenty of rocks to rest and soak up the stunning views.

Every tunnel is special in a way, but one of the most well known and impressive ones is Nr. 20. This tunnel is carved out of a rock tower and is spiralling upwards for 87 meters! Nr. 47 is also amazing, because it’s the highest point from where you have an amazing view of the area.

What Do Bring:

A (head)torch is essential, because some tunnels are quite long and pitch dark.
And good hiking boots are recommended, because it can get quite slippery.

Finally: Pasta, Pasta!

It took us about three hours to reach the end of the trail, where you’ll immediately see Rifugio Achille Papa. We spoiled ourselves and ordered a well deserved Italian pasta. As already said, the hike itself is not too difficult, but we were pretty exhausted anyway. Oh and the Rigugio even has a few rooms, so if you feel too tired to walk back the same day, just spend the night. Be sure to make a reservation though (especially on weekends).

From up here, there are two ways back to the car park: you can either turn around and head right back down on the Strada delle 52 Gallerie or you can take the gently winding road. We went for the dirt road, which is used to transport supplies up to the Rifugio. After 17.5 kilometres, we finally reached the parking lot. Exhausted but also exited to have just walked in the footsteps of history.

Hiking through the Strada delle 52 Gallerie is a walk through history.

The entrance of tunnel Nr. 1.

The Strada delle 52 Gallerie trail alternates between a dirt track and tunnels dug out of the mountain.

The longest tunnel is Nr. 19, with 318 m length.

Strada delle 52 Gallerie starts at Bocchetta di Campiglia (altitude of 1216 m) and ends at the Porte del Pasubio (altitude of 1928 m).

Strada delle 52 Gallerie was originally built as a supply line for Italian troops who were defending against Austrian and Hungarian forces. The path was made to accommodate the soldiers and their mules.

Strada delle 52 Gallerie is located approx. 30km from Lake Garda, one of the most beautiful areas in northern Italy.

Hiking along the Strada delle 52 Gallerie is an amazing experience – also because of the stunning views!

Rifugio Achille Papa is located right at the end of Strada delle 52 Gallerie and a perfect spot for a nice lunch.

Out Of This World: The Putangirua Pinnacles In New Zealand.

Nisa — Wed, 15 Oct 2014 14:18:46 +0000

My one-month trip across New Zealand included both the North and South Island. Part of my trip was planned according to filming locations of LOTR. On the North Island, this included Hobbiton, the Tongariro National Park, as well as Cape Palliser. Cape Palliser might not ring a bell for any LOTR fan, but what about the Putangirua Pinnacles? Still no light at the end of the tunnel? Then the ‘Paths of the Dead‘ is all you need to hear.

The Help Of The Army Of The Dead Is Needed.

The ‘Paths of the Dead‘ is a haunted pass through the White Mountains. The Army of the Dead accompanied Aragorn to Minas Tirith to defeat Sauron’s orcs, after which Aragorn declared their curse lifted. This scene was filmed at the Aorangi Forest Park where you can’t miss the sight of the weird rock formations of the Putangirua Pinnacles – an amazing collection of hoodoos.

An Unease Feeling.

Cape Palliser itself is an area only very few tourist visit, plus it’s only sparsely populated. During my entire trip, I’ve never felt uncomfortable about hiking by myself or being the only person for hundred of miles; my visit to the Putangirua Pinnacles thought me right! Let’s just say, a serial killer would have his fun down here…

Since I had to get to Wellington on the same day, I decided I would start my hike early in the morning. I packed up my backpack and camera equipment and drove the 13 kilometres along Cape Palliser Road until I reached the Putangirua Pinnacles Scenic Reserve. By the time I got there, it was 7.20 am. The camp-site was empty apart from one creepy looking truck and a camper van. From the time I got there, I had a weird feeling, yet my mind was set: I wanted to see these breath-taking pinnacles. The first ten minutes into the track where fine.

And then it hit me: No cell-phone reception, complete stillness, no one around me and that truck at the camp-site. Shivers went down my back and I started realizing, why Peter Jackson chose this place: The eerie stillness really gets to you! I tried focusing on the surroundings, but I couldn’t help to turn around every couple of metres to make sure no one was following me…

One Hour – And Lots Of Sweat – Later.

Finally, after sweating like crazy (due to my running), I reached the Putangirua Pinnacles. It was an impressive sight. And my unease feeling was gone all over sudden. I simply focused on the surroundings and absorbed every minute. Visiting these ancient Putangirua Pinnacles and absorbing the stillness of the ‘Middle-earth’ setting was breath-taking and super scary at the same time!

Length: Three routes lead to the Putangirua Pinnacles from the camp-site. Allow2 – 3 hours for a round trip. For a longer walk, with excellent views of Palliser Bay, allow 3 – 4 hours for a round trip.

The Puntangirua Pinnacles consist of a large number of hoodoos located in a valley of the Aorangi Ranges.

The Putangirua Pinnacles are a geological formation and one of New Zealand’s best examples of badlands erosion.

The Paths of the Dead sequence in the film The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King was filmed on in the Putangirua Pinnacles Scenic Reserve.

The majestic Putangirua Pinnacles were formed over the past 120.000 years by heavy rain which gradually eroded an ancient gravel deposit.

The Aorangi Forest Park and the surrounding area features some of New Zealand’s most striking landforms, including the Putangirua Pinnacles.

The ‘badlands erosion’ of Putangirua Pinnacles is a spectacular landscape feature attracting visitors from all over the world to the southern Wairarapa.

A Trip Just Around The Corner: Antholzer See in South Tyrol.

Ulli — Fri, 12 Sep 2014 09:16:26 +0000

Every time we visit a new location (some might be further away than others), we’re always excited to be there for the first time. The little gem in South Tyrol, close to the Austrian border, that I’m about to share with you was no exception…

It’s a deal.

Ulli and I made a deal not too long ago, to drive somewhere new at least once every second month. After all, we live in the centre of Europe and have neighbouring countries pretty much in front of our doorstep. This time, South Tyrol was on our list. We’ve been here before, but never in the area around the Antholzer See. For a travel photographer, this area offers truly great photo opportunities!

Crystal clear turquoise water.

After driving along for a while, we checked into a small farmhouse B&B and were ready to explore the area further. Accommodation can easily be found in the surrounding villages, either on the Austrian or the Italian side, so there’s no need for pre-booking.

Anyway, as a good start, we decided to walk around the crystal clear Antholzer See. The turquoise water is in fact out of this world! Combine this with the amazing mountain range - still with some snow on the top - as well as the thick forests surrounding the lake, and you’ll get the most enduring impression ever!

It was a long weekend and therefore we were not the only ones, but the good thing is that this location is pretty much a dead end, so not too many people come here. There is only one road that continues to the Austrian border up to the pass, as a one way system regulated with a traffic light. The road is pretty narrow and winding, so only cyclists can get along fast.

In this area it seems like time has stood still. Sure, there’s (limited) internet and phone access, but the way of living hasn’t changed all that much. I felt like the mountains radiate some sort of energy that automatically makes you feel more at ease. Exactly what you need after a busy week in the city…

The village of Bruneck.

A visit to the largest town of the area followed. Bruneck is a great place for real authentic Italian food, which was what we were after. But it has more to offer: It’s a cute little town with a neat pedestrian area, cosy cafés, pubs, restaurants and shops. Bruneck’s picturesque streets bustle with life. Nearby await the Dolomites where walkers, hikers and climbers can set out for some of South Tyrol’s most striking beauty and variety.

This short weekend trip again reminded us of the fact, that Europe has some of the most stunning landscapes you can find!

The water of the Antholzer See, South Tyrol, is so clear that reflections can be seen pretty much any given day (if the weather is on your side).

Walking around the Antholzer See, South Tyrol, will give you some of the most stunning impressions in the area…

The best time to visit the area around the Antholzer See, South Tyrol, is definitely summer and the beginning of autumn.

Living away from all the hassle of a city has it’s advantages: Not only do you get a stunning view every time you look out the window, but if feels like the way of living is more relaxed…

The striking mountains in the area around the Antholzer See, South Tyrol, are really amazing!

For a travel photographer, the area around the Antholzer See, South Tyrol, offers great photo opportunities.

The Place That Brought Tears To My Eyes: Rangitata Valley.

Nisa — Wed, 21 May 2014 06:32:46 +0000

It’s like when I go the opera: If everything fits together perfectly, chances that one or the other tear will roll down my cheek are pretty high. And it’s the same when travelling; once every couple of years I come across a place that overwhelms me so much that I can’t help it but cry. Simply because the beauty and atmosphere are overwhelming. The last time this happened was during my trip to Angkor Wat. And only when travelling through New Zealand a couple of months ago did I experience that feeling all over again…

I knew that I wanted to visit the Rangitata Valley from the moment I booked my ticket. Not only because the images from the Lord of the Rings films were amazing (yes I booked some of the destinations in NZ according to the LOTR), but also because Mt Potts station looked like a hell of a place to stay at.

Mount Potts is on private land, yet still has an easy access point from the Mount Somers road. Driving those approx. 50km to Mt Potts station gave me an absolute adrenaline rush, because I’ve never been so impressed with my surroundings… Imagine driving along a gravel road, all by yourself, no cell phone reception and no cars or houses in sight for kilometres, while listening to “The Fellowship Reunited“… then you turn around a left corner when all over sudden you’re in the centre of the vast Rangitata Valley; the Southern Alps in the background, the river plains in the front and Mount Sunday right in the centre without any connection to the outer world.

Mount Sunday sits all alone in an expansive river plain surrounded by the dramatic mountains. In the LOTR, Rangitata Valley is known as Rohan with Edoras (Mount Sunday) as its capital city. Quite an impressive site. I spent 4 full days in this area and I must say that apart from the Milford Track, this my the highlight of my New Zealand adventure!

I really did my best to capture the moment through my photos, but in this case they will only give you an impression & can never give you the full-on experience.

Driving along the gravel road to the Rangitata Valley will give you the chills…

Stunning landscape along Mount Somers road just before approaching the Rangitata Valley…

… and then you turn and suddenly you’re in the centre of the Rangitata Valley – aka Rohan – in Canterbury, New Zealand.

Here you can see the famous Mt. Sunday; for Lord of the Rings fans, this place is known as Edoras, the capital of Rohan.

Mount Potts is the highest mountain of Mount Potts range and great for a long day hike (rather for experiences trekkers only).

The river formed the Rangitata Valley, in the center of the Southern Alps, and the on-location photography of the Edoras.

The landscape of the Rangitata Valley – aka Rohan – in Canterbury, New Zealand.

Panorama of the landscape of the Rangitata Valley – aka Rohan – in Canterbury, New Zealand.

The Living Root Bridges Of Cherrapunji In Megahalya, India.

Ulli — Mon, 15 Jul 2013 05:23:32 +0000

In Cherrapunji, located in the Indian state Meghalaya, living root bridges are located throughout the rainforest. Travelling to the wettest place on earth, means heavy rain, thick fog, the greenest jungle, the tallest Indian plunge waterfalls and some of the most stunning & eco-friendly natural wonders you’ll come across.

It was by accident that we heard about these living root bridges in the Northeast of India. These really unique natural-man-made wonders can only be found in hidden valleys where rain tumbles down almost every day throughout the year. The logistic to get there at first seemed a bit difficult, but actually turned out to be pretty easy. We flew to Guwahati in the state of Assam and negotiated a cab straight up to Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort, which is a great starting point for a lot of hikes into the region. The guys in the resort were happy to hand out maps of the various trekking options and can arrange cabs and guides for every occasion.

As Cherrapunji holds the title “the wettest place on earth” one has to come prepared, especially during monsoon season – which of course the season when we decided to visit this extraordinary place. Yet it’s still an amazing place for travel photographers like ourselves.

The Double Decker Living Root Bridge.

We started straight away with the so called “most enduring trek”; 2.500 stairs down to the Umshiang Double Decker Living Root Bridge, called Jingkieng Nongriat. It’s a natural wonder designed and guided by man and even believed to be the only one of its kind in the world. The roots of a Ficus elastica tree have grown over a period of at least 25 years along a small rope across the river, always put into the right direction, until is developed into a bridge that could be “paved” with stones and can now hold up to 20 people at once. Some of the ancient root bridges in the area are used daily by the people of the villages around Cherrapunji for more than 500 years.

Getting To The Double Decker Living Root Bridge.

We hired a guide to lead the way, even though one could do it without one since the trek is well signed. But a guide knows many stories about the area and its people and knows exactly where to take special care on the path – during monsoon rain the trek can be slippery at times.

On the way to the double decker bridge, you have to cross two steel cable bridges. They were pretty shaking and we had to cross one by one, while being surrounded by raging waters … frightening in a way but amazingly impressive at the same time.

The entire trip takes about five hours, so it’s definitely necessary to bring plenty of water and some snacks, though there is a little place near the double decker bridge where you can get a bowl of instant noodles and tea.

Overall, the trek is a really rewarding experience through jungle, where betel-nut and bay-leaves are grown by the locals who do this trek everyday to reach the road. We were told that this trek is the most exhausting, but if you’re fit, it’s not even the slightest problem. We even did it a second time, since on our first trip down the valley it was raining cats and dogs.

The War-Khasis, a tribe in Meghalaya, long ago noticed this tree and saw in its powerful roots an opportunity to easily cross the area’s many rivers. Now, whenever and wherever the need arises, they simply grow their bridges.

The root bridges, some of which are over a hundred feet long, take ten to fifteen years to become fully functional, but they’re extraordinarily strong — strong enough that some of them can support the weight of 50 or more people at a time.

The root bridges lie in the dampest place on earth lies – the state Meghalaya in the northeast of India. It’s also known as “The Abode of Clouds”.

One special root bridge, believed to be the only one of its kind in the world, is actually two bridges stacked one over the other and has come to be known as the “Umshiang Double-Decker Root Bridge.”

The southern Khasi and Jaintia hills are humid and warm, crisscrossed by swift-flowing rivers and mountain streams. On the slopes of these hills, a species of Indian rubber tree with an incredibly strong root system thrives and flourishes.

Because they are alive and still growing, the bridges actually gain strength over time — and some of the ancient root bridges used daily by the people of the villages around Cherrapunji may be well over 500 years old.

This place receives a lot of rain, so wooden bridges rot and decay. But Root bridges are alive and growing and so gain strength over time.