Men of all ages can be seen with rolled up T-shirts presenting their often not so six-pack tummies in public (in the subway, train, streets, restaurants, etc.), sometimes fanning themselves with the garment. It’s a habit through all ages, social standings and tummy sizes, yet not gender. So women, don’t take these men as an example, because that would simply be too scandalous.

We’ve had our share of different bellies: round, oval, large, small, hairy, tattooed … and sometimes even 9-month-overdue-pregnancy bellies. Sure, summertime can be very (!) hot in China, but it’s hot in other countries as well and you don’t see anything like it there?!

So, every time we travel to China, we wonder why Chinese men have this natural urge to pull up their shirts whenever they want. We did some research on the topic but nothing really came up… A possible explanation could be that during the cultural revolution, good manners were condemned and people became started acting more like pigs (spitting, munching, slurping and so forth).

Before the Olympic Games in China 2008, the government tried hard to erase the belly-showing (and other bad customs). All mayors of larger cities urged their fellow men to button-up. But these old habits sit deep and their efforts didn’t have a great success.

We’re very positive that on our next visit to China we’ll continue seeing non-sixpack bellies and many other strange customs – but then again, they make a good photo opportunity.

Shirtless Chinese men in the streets of Guangzhou.

A shirtless butcher in Hong Kong.

Shirtless Chinese men in the streets of Beijing.

Shirtless Chinese men resting in the streets of Guangzhou.

Shirtless Chinese man playing a game of Mahjong in Guangzhou.

Shirtless Chinese man selling watermelons in the streets of Beijing.

Shirtless Chinese men unloading a truck in Beijing.

Shirtless Chinese man sitting in the streets of Guangzhou.

Shirtless Chinese man sleeping in the streets of Guangzhou.

Shirtless all around in Guangzhou.

A dedicated shirtless turtle seller at a market in Guangzhou.

An exhausted shirtless Chinese man in the streets of Guangzhou. Somehow he reminded us of a beetle on his back…

Shirtless Chinese men eating dinner in the streets of Guangzhou.

If you start exploring the area just a little North of Shamian Island (Shamian itself has kept its beauty from the past – only the White Swan Hotel is a more modern building), you’ll walk through a very old part of this city. Of course it’s also interrupted with new buildings, but a lot of the area still has its original charm with “gated” communities. Beside bicycles and electric motorbikes, only pedestrians can be seen here, because the roads and walkways are too narrow for cars.

A city within the city.

Inside such a gated area, you’ll come across lots of vibrant outdoor activities all day long: Elderly residents meet in the street to play a game of Majong, others work out on gymnastic apparatuses and neighbours meet up in front of ones apartment. Washing is hung up in the street, while kids play soccer in some corners and old grannies walk along hand-in-hand in their pyjamas. Every area also has its own ‘shopping centre’ – its actually more like a market area, with all sorts of different stalls. You’ll find everything a Chinese family needs; from household goods, food, live poultry and fish, an adjoining post office, a hairdresser and a tea shop … and sometimes even a gambling shop, where you can play the lottery for example.

The local life here is very peaceful, while the hustle and bustle from the streets outside has no effect within the gates. At least this is what it looked like to us. We’ve never been into one of these flats though. Most probably they’re a bit crammed and small, but the residents still seem to enjoy their lives in the old quarters of Guangzhou.

Walking through the old quarter of Guangzhou is really peaceful and a nice change to the otherwise super busy city.

A typical apartment block in Guangzhou.

A typical apartment building in Guangzhou.

Bicycles are the best way to get around the old quarters in Guangzhou.

Women selling goods at a market in Guangzhou.

Walking along the old quarter in Guangzhou is really relaxing and makes you feel like you’re in a small village out in the countryside.

Many Chinese use a bicycle to get around the side streets of Guangzhou.

Fresh chicken – ready for the pot – at Huayuan market in Guangzhou.

Walking along a side street in the old quarter of Guangzhou.

A group of people playing Mahjong in Guangzhou.

Most people arriving in Guangzhou are there for just one reason: business. But even for the busiest businessman, a walk through one of the parks could make the little (needed) difference on a hectic day.

What to expect.

Even before breakfast, early in the morning, the parks develop into a little city themselves. Lots of activities are happening: Groups are getting together for some Tai Chi – mostly accompanied with some soft Chinese music; others use their spare time to take a run through one of the parks, or a little morning game of Jianzi (a traditional Asian game in which players aim to keep a heavily weighted shuttlecock in the air using their feet) with friends. Also, if you follow the sound of music, you’ll come across gatherings of people who get together to sing … and they take their singing very serious (they even have a conductor). While walking through Yuexiu park, we detected a group singing “Freude schöner Götterfunken” by Beethoven. Somehow it was a bit unreal to listen to Chinese pensioners singing such a classical song …

The parks.

We’ve been to two major parks in Guangzhou: Liuhuahu park and Yuexiu park. Yuexiu park is opposite the China (Marriott) Hotel. It  has some little hills and a jungle like vegetation, so you’ll find some great hiking trails – yes, we’re talking about the bustling city of Guangzhou. If you prefer water more, Yuexiu park (as well as Liuhuahu park) also has a huge lake. You can either feed huge Koi fish with leftover bread, or take one of the paddle boats on a little spin through the water veins.

People from Guangzhou flock to their parks and for an interesting experience, visitors should do as well at least once.

Easily one of the most beautiful spots in Guangzhou is the Liuhuahu Park. This massive park encircles the Liuhua Lake.

Liuhuahu Park is split into three major areas, the first being the Sightseeing and Resting area. This area is a wonderful place to have a picnic or go for a walk or run along the edge of the lake, and is particularly beautiful in the evening when the sun is setting.

The second area of Liuhuahu Park is the Entertainment and Activities area, which has playgrounds for kids, as well as occasional public workshops or music performances.

Especially the older generation is seen at Liuhuahu Park, who keep fit with table tennis, Tai Chi or Badminton.

The last area of Liuhuahu Park is the Aviary and Botanical Garden area. The aviary houses a wide variety of birds and the botanical garden is pleasantly fragrant and well kept.

Tai Chi is an internal Chinese martial art practised for both its defense training and its health benefits.

Some of Tai Chi’s training forms are especially known for being practiced with relatively slow movement.

Many gardeners keep Liuhuahu park clean.

Feeding Koi fish at Yuexiu Park is just one of the many things you can do here.

Yuexiu Park is the largest park in downtown Guangzhou. Covering an area of 860.000 m2, it’s made up of three artificial lakes and seven hills of Yuexiu Mountain.

Yuexiu Park is a perfect combination of cultural relics and ecological tourism, reputed for its pretty water and hills as well as cultural relics.

The view from the Peak in Hong Kong.

I started off with the Peak. I walked all the way to the station while pulling my huge bag behind me. I started to realize again, that 35° in Asia is a different kind of heat that 35° in Europe. I was sweating like a pig, and the trip hasn’t even started yet … further I walked to the Central Pier station and took the Star Ferry to the Kowloon side of Hong Kong. Then I explored the area around Nathan Road, like the Goldfish Market and walked all the way up to Prince Edward Street where my bus to Guangzhou was awaiting me.

The sky has no limit.

CTS buses are a great and cheap way to get to China. Four hours and one stiff neck later, the bus turned into the street of the China Hotel, where Ulli welcomed me. By this time, I was up almost 48 hours but I didn’t seem exhausted yet. So we were off to a little shopping trip, with a stop at our favourite noodle soup shop. We found this place during our first visit to Guangzhou back in 2007 and have been coming back ever since then. Definitely the best place in town! The “Grand Finale” of the day was a wonderful head massage at a local hair dresser. What more can you want?

Our daily routine started with an early swim in the rooftop pool of our hotel on Shamian Island. This part of Guangzhou is a relaxing area within this vast city, where traffic is limited and you can walk under old trees along very nice old colonial buildings. For your western comfort you will also find a Starbucks cafe around the corner –  not that we love such world spanning chains but in some places they just come in handy for a luxury treat :)

Around ten o’clock the shopping temples open their gates for the brand cautious shopper. Guangzhou truly is a shoppers delight. After a few hours of choosing, comparing and haggling, we definitely had enough. So we stepped outside, and found this little Muslim restaurant where you get the best noodle soup in the entire city! By now we’ve eaten our way through many other places in Guangzhou but absolutely nothing compares to this semi outdoor food stall.

So, after returning for a quick offload of the purchased stuff, we were ready to hit the hidden sights of the city in the afternoon. We set out South with the subway. There was one station that caught our interest: It’s on an island on the Pearl River. After some 40 minutes we finally got there and walked up the stairs to realize that we were in a complete different world; birds were chirping, chicken ran around, you could find typical old Chinese houses and women who had their marketplace right near the subway station Eggs, herbs, fruits … simply all things that are produced on this island were sold there. The locals were truly astonished that two Western women visited their island … A chit chat starts immediately (of course) but unfortunately we didn’t understand a word…

There are maybe around 50 houses on this island with small alleys, and entrance doors opened. Not many strangers find their way down there, so you can peek into ones living rooms :) It’s like a typical Chinese village life. Fish was being dried along the way and some women were doing embroidery on the village square.

A gentle breeze from the river and the sound of some doves made this afternoon a very relaxing one – in an otherwise so busy city. We topped off the day with a visit to a hairdresser for a wash and blow dry including a sensational head massage. The pool back at the hotel made this day in Guangzhou a perfect one.

Different filled Wontons, eggs and rice is all you need for a yummy breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Mannequin’s in China often look really interesting – especially their hair style is extravagant.

A game of Mahjong being played in the streets of Guangzhou.

A typical street scene in Guangzhou: A street vendor sleeping at Huayuan market.

All sorts of herbs can be found at Qingping market in Guangzhou.

The old part of Guangzhou makes you feel like you’re in a small viallage out in the country.

Woman selling small snacks at the Guangzhou North railway station.

Dried fish at Qingping market in Guangzhou.

Caution!!! We’re used to pretty much anything after all of our travels, so this is for those who are not: If you’re eating dinner, or lunch, I’d really recommend swallowing before you scroll down! Oh and in advance: a big sorry to all vegetarians out there … but hey, this is what you find at markets if you leave the touristy parts.

Anyway, let me know which one you think is the yuckiest. I’d really love to hear your thoughts on this :)

Skinned rabbits are not seen too often, but at Huayuan market in Guangzhou, you can’t miss it.

Skinned frogs in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

A cow head at the Central market in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Turtles, crocodiles, snakes – nothing special at Huayuan market in Guangzhou.

Cut off pig’s feet at a wet market in Hong Kong.

The crocodile’s head is usually cut off at wet markets in Guangzhou.

Dead fish at a market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Dead ducks at a market in Guangzhou, China.

Cow eyes at a market in Hong Kong.

Bush meat in Laos.

Carrying a dead pig into a market in Hong Kong.

Dead frogs at a market in Gangtok, India.

Not at a market but it fits here: Dead cat at a beach in Vietnam.

A bulls head in Hong Kong.

Pig’s brain can also be found at wet markets in Hong Kong.

Fresh (or maybe not so fresh) chicken at the Russian market in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Preparing frogs for dinner in Cambodia.

Burned goat heads in India.

Dead fish at a wet market in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Duck peckers at a market in Bangkok, Thailand.

Giblets at a market in Vientiane, Laos.

Dead cows at a market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Meat section in Hong Kong.

The remains of a dead cow in Darjeeling, India.

China is the place where noodles were produced first. Marco Polo brought them back to Europe from his travels through Asia. Yet, the difference comes with the noodle production, which makes a real noodle restaurant in China so unique. The base is the same all over the globe: flour, salt and water.

First step for the perfect noodles.

Second step for the perfect noodles.

As you will see in the video below, it’s important to get the right softness, otherwise the noodles will not turn out “the right way”. It really needs a lot of practise to become a real noodle chef. After waiting a while he takes a piece of dow and gently folds it into noodles just with his hands, folding and folding, as the dow gets thinner and thinner. It looks so easy, but for somebody who is not used to do it,  it’s nearly impossible because the dow cracks after the first or second folding.

The soup base (made from beef)  is boiled freshly every day. Then it’s your choice what you ad; some people love a lot of greenies, like Pak Choi or Coriander, others like to add a fried egg and some prefer the rather local version with chopped cartilage from the soup.

The chef knows how it’s done.

This dish and the knowledge of making these noodles originally comes from western China & most of the places are run by muslims. You can’t go wrong with this dish in China. It’s always freshly cooked and these restaurants all have a high turnover because locals love the noodle soup. It’s also one of the few dishes (that we) found in China which has a bit of a “western taste”. So there you have it! “Manmanchi” (I hope that’s the right translation for “bon appetit”!).

Qingping Market is a good spot to find many exotic things. The market came into existence in 1979. As we all know, Chinese people are known to eat almost anything! If you go to this market you’ll see for yourself. You may find both dried starfish, snakes, leopard and many other animals. It has over 2.000 stalls and lies in the north of Shamian Island. It is the largest street market in Guangzhou. Over 60.000 people shop there every day!

The Chinese medicine section is interesting and less disturbing. From shark fins, to snake eyes you’ll find everything you “need” for your suffering.

Two cages roosters at Huayuan market in Guangzhou.

A live crocodile at Huayuan market in Guangzhou.

Different herbs at Qingping market in Guangzhou.

Live snakes at Huayuan market in Guangzhou.

Dried seastars are a common sight at markets in Guangzhou.

Herbs and spices at Qingping market in Guangzhou.

Different ingredients you’ll need for Chinese medicine can be found at Qingping market in Guangzhou.