Especially during the Christmas holidays, princes surge through the roof in many places across Asia. We’re not willing to spend thousands of Dollars in a place that is then swamped by tourists, so if you’re looking for a tropical paradise, that’s still rather unknown and where you actually get your money’s worth, then this island off the coast of Aceh is the perfect spot.

Casa Nemo is definitely the best place to stay at on the island. Not only because the resort itself is amazing (review coming up), but also because the beach here is the nicest one on the island. And now I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

You’ll find various hotels across Pulau Weh, but the largest cluster is in the village of Iboih near the best dive sites. It’s a beautiful place to stay at, but also the most crowded and although the water is crystal clear, the stunning beaches can be found somewhere else.

The crystal clear turquoise water is just one of the highlights of Pulau Weh.

The beach right in front of Casa Nemo on Pulau Weh was one of the most beautiful ones we’ve been to.

White sand, pristine waters, palm treed and no one around is what made Pulau Weh the perfect getaway spot for us.

Pulau Weh is a tropical island in the North of Sumatra.

The beach in front of Casa Nemo is the nicest on on Pulau Weh.

Welcome to paradise.

Off To Ambon With A Rather Unconventional Mode Of Transport These Days.

On our journeys we’re never too keen to meet (lots of) fellow travellers, so the Maluku Islands were just the right destination for us. Thanks to AirAsia, destinations across Southeast Asia are pretty easy to reach. Yet we wanted more than just your average travelling day. From Bangkok, AirAsia brought us to Surabaya and from here the real adventure to Ambon, the capital of the Maluku islands, began. For many years we again wanted to travel across the Indonesian islands by Pelni Ship and this was the perfect trip to do just that! Flying across Indonesia as become easy but back in 1998, when we visited Indonesia for the first time, things were a bit different and the Pelni Ship was pretty much the only way to reach unknown places. So this journey would be something special and would bring us back to a time when travelling actually required lots time.

As the KM Dobonsolo made it’s way from Surabaya via Makassar (known as Ujung Pandang back in the days) and Bau-Bau, Ambon came nearer. From Ambon, the ship would continue to Sorong all the way to Jayapura, the border town between West Papua and Papua New Guinea, from where it makes its way back to Surabaya.

Maluku Islands: The KM Dobonsolo at Ambon harbour.

Maluku Islands: Travelling by Pelni ship is still a rather cheap way to travel around Indonesia, especially if you have lots of goods with you.

Maluku Islands: Flights across Indonesia have become so cheap and Pelni ships are often considered unsanitary, therefore tourists prefer the easy way of travelling (plus of course it takes more time).

Maluku Islands: The transportation of cargo is the main source of income for Pelni.

Maluku Islands: Merchants and families with lots of luggage are the main passengers abord a Pelni ship.

Maluku Islands: Just your average scene abord a Pelni ship in Indonesia.

Maluku Islands: Welcome To This Beautiful Archipelago Within The Banda Sea. Welcome To Ambon.

With a few hours delay, the KM Dobonsolo arrived in Ambon at 2 am. While getting off, some officials asked for a “Surat Jalan“- meaning a travel permit for the Maluku Islands, but this is no longer required and we knew that. They tried anyway for a bit of pocket money. After all, we were an easy target since we were the only tourists disembarking (and on the entire ship as a matter of fact). There was not much going on that time of the day and even the Rickshaw pullers were sleeping. We started walking out of the harbour and turned left on the first corner, where a hotel sign seemed inviting. Le Green Suites looked good, but – unbelievably – was fully booked. The night shift manager told us about their second hotel with available rooms and woke one of the sleeping Rickshaw pullers and within 15 minutes we were in the hotel Le Green Suites 2 – with nice rooms and Wifi throughout the property.

In the morning we really didn’t have any plans, so we started walking as we usually do, to get a first impression of Ambon. Our way lead us through the main street, passing a huge Mosque before strolling down to the beach where the markets are scattered along. Morning is always market time and it was very (very!) busy. We could hardly pass through the crowds and a sudden downpour didn’t make it easier. It was rainy season after all and mother nature makes sure you know why it’s called that. We escaped to a restaurant, where delicious Indonesian food was served. At the nearby bus station we enquired our options for continuing north. From Ambon there are Bemos in all directions and we decided heading to Pantai Liang, where the local slow ferry to Pulau Seram leaves at 11 am.

Maluku Island Hopping – Pulau Seram To Pulau Saparua.

Pantai Liang itself is a little village with stunning beaches and it would have been nice to spend a few days here, but we went with the ferry to Waipirit on Seram island. From there we continued by Bemo to Masohi, which would take us a couple of hours. It was already late in the afternoon and one of the passengers in our Bemo suggested the “New Kelemuku Hotel”. We spent a couple of days here, but were longing for some serious beach action. So we continued up north to the village of Sawai. This place not only feels very remote, but it actually is very far out of the way. Tourists are rarely seen due to the difficulty of getting there, plus crocks are nothing uncommon. As beautiful and tranquil at Sawai is, you won’t find white sand beaches.

Maluku Islands: If you’re visiting Indonesia during the rainy season, you’ll have to face downpours like this quite often. Sometimes it rains for days, sometimes the rain stops just as fast as it came. Here we were at Lisar Bahari Resort in Sawai on Seram island and it was actually a mystical atmosphere being above the water with this heavy storm hitting us.

Maluku Islands: As seen here, Sawai village is located far away from civilisation and therefore not visited by tourists often.

Maluku Islands: Lisar Bahari Resort in Sawai is definitely the place to stay at. You might not have sand beaches here, but you can jump into the crystal clear water straight from your room, which is not too bad if you ask me.

For a classic beach paradise, we would have to travel further on. Saparua island would be our next destination and this meant finding a boat that would bring us there. One thing is for sure, travelling around the Maluku islands is definitely something that requires (a lot of) time and patience. If you have both, you’ll be rewarded with memories that will last a lifetime. As we hoped, Saparua was the right spot to spend more than just a couple of days.

Maluku Islands: Puntih Lessi Indah Homestay on Saparua is the best place to stay at for some serious beach action.

Maluku Islands: Saparua offers the best beaches with crystal clear water with pretty much no one around.

Maluku Islands: Saparua beach paradise.

Maluku Islands: getting around by boat is unsurprisingly the best way to get around the islands.

Maluku Islands: From Haria, the main town on Saparua island, you’ll pretty much get anywhere on the island.

As our journey slowly came to an end, we decided to return to Ambon a bit early, to check out the Southeastern part of the island. Though you also won’t find sand beaches here, Ambon island should not be underestimated because it’s still blissful, beautiful, quite, simple and peaceful.

Maluku Islands: Fishing is the main source of income here on the islands.

Maluku Islands: Fishermen along the jetty can be seen pretty much everywhere along the islands.

Maluku Islands: Ambon might not be your typical beach paradise, but the islands offers stunning landscape scenes, beautiful markets and crystal clear waters.

Maluku Islands: The way down south on Ambon islands lead us through several beautiful palm tree alleys.

Maluku Islands: Tourists are a rare sight in Ambon, especially with the kind of camera gear we use, so these boys immediately started posing for us.

Maluku Islands: Collin Beach Hotel on Ambon islands was a beautiful places to stay at.

Resumé After Three Weeks On The Maluku Islands.

The lack of development and commercialisation on the Maluku islands is bound to not last and this is what gives when their charm. When coming here, don’t expect infrastructure that you might find elsewhere. These islands have not only been off the radar for a while, but are a truly forgotten paradise in Indonesia.

To get there was pretty easy and straightforward. We flew in to Surabaya from where we took the train to Banyuwangi Regency/Karangasem Station. We were picked up by our guesthouse and drove to the village of Licin, which is about 20 kilometres from the station, located on the slopes of Kawah Ijen volcano. The guesthouse, situated between rice terraces, coffee plantations and natural jungle was an ideal spot to explore the area, while our host organised the trip to the volcano the next morning. Oh and by “next morning” we mean 1 a.m.!

Workingman’s Death: 3 Times A Day, 6 Days A Week.

The walk into the cater would include sharp drops, slippery steps and a toxic turquoise lake. At almost 2.800 metres, this place is a working mine where men carry up to 100 kilos of sulfur out of the mouth of the volcano down to the weighing station. They do this by hand up to three times a day, six days a week, starting at 1 a.m. when it’s still cool outside.

From our guesthouse it took about one hour until we reached the parking lot from where the 3.5 kilometre trek starts. Our guide’s name was Neki, who was a miner himself for almost 10 years and told us much about the job during the first one-hour climb upwards. The way lead us to the canteen for a little rest with a cup of tea before continuing. Here we saw the first miner coming towards us. It was a sight we’d see many more times during our walk to the crater rim: The man carried two baskets made out of bamboo loaded with mustard-yellow sulfur on his shoulder. He was one of 20 working men trying to bring up as much sulfur as their back can bear. Seeing him rapidly walk past us with this enormous load almost made us feel bad for resting. We continued walking.

The trip to the Kawah Ijen crater might not be super tough, but I still welcomed the rest in between.

Miner at Kawah Ijen break up the sulfur before transporting them to the weighing station.

There is only one way to the crater that tourist and the workers have to share.

A miner ascends from the Kawah Ijen crater with his baskets full of sulfur.

The moment you arrive at the crater rim you’ll notice hundreds of tourist walking down into the crater to see the spectacular blue fires that burn between the sulfur. Neki provided us with gas masks the closer we got to the toxic fumes. Kawah Ijen’s smoky abyss looks and feels like a place from outer space. It’s hard to believe that people actually work here. The situation is frankly quite ridiculous: on one hand miners are dragging up between 80-100 kilos of sulfur up to three times a day, while on the other hand ignorant tourists try to overtake them or comfortably rest at the spots that are reserved for the working men who need to get the load off their shoulders for a minute. What felt even more embarrassing was seeing tourists taking selfies with these guys. We spent a couple of hours observing this and came to the conclusion, that some people would do anything for a selfie and don’t have the courtesy to give way to the heavy loaded miners who deserve more than a little bit of credit for having what is, perhaps, the hardest job in the world.

The miners inevitably inhale the toxic fumes at Kawah Ijen crater.

The landscape around Kawah Ijen volcano is definitely one to remember!

The Price Miners Pay At Kawah Ijen.

Each miner makes about 200.000 Rupees (15-20 $) a day, which is quite good money in Indonesia compared to other jobs. But they bear the scars of years spent on the edge of life and death. The side effects are nothing less but severe burns, sore bodies, ongoing coughing, poisoned lungs and squashed shoulder bones. When exposed to this kind of work over long periods of time, the life expectancy is only 30 years. But money keeps them going and when one has the opportunity, he saves up as much as he can, and after a few years, opens a guesthouse and becomes a tour guide for crazy tourists who are after blue flames brightening up the nights down in this toxic environment. Neki was one of these people. And he believes that it saved his life.

Padang is the largest city on the western coast of Sumatra and the hopping off point for a trip to the Mentawai islands and this is why most tourists (especially surfers) come here. At first sight, it’s definitely not the postcard-perfect town, This is also why most of the tourists who come here don’t even bother to explore Padang and its surroundings further. It’s unfortunate for them because they’re missing out on stunningly beautiful trips (some of them are mentioned below), but good for people who want to enjoy this part of the world as it was, without tourists running around half naked as we see it every day in Bali. So for this, thanks to all those who want to get away from Padang as fast as possible. And terima kasih Sumatra, for being as beautiful and pristine as you were during my first visit back in 1996. You’re definitely one of my favourite travel destinations and one of the most amazing travel photography models!

 1. A Walk Through The Rice Fields.

Rice production in Indonesia is an important part of the national economy and Indonesia is the third-largest producer of rice in the world. Rice cultivation is well-suited to regions that have a warm climate, low labor costs and high amounts of rainfall as this staple crop is labor-intensive to cultivate and requires lots of water supply. Sumatra fulfils all of the above.

Although Indonesia is the third-largest country regarding global rice production, it’s still a rice importer. This situation is caused by farmers’ use of non-optimal production techniquesin combination with large per capita rice consumption. In fact, Indonesia has the largest per capita rice consumption in the world. Indonesians consume around 140 kilogram of rice per person per year.

The rice fields are worked by men and women equally.

 2. A Visit To A Surrounding Waterfall.

Be prepared for pure, natural and pristine nature. But also be prepared to share your walk with hundreds of leeches waiting to suck your blood. I’m not a wuss, but leeches are pretty much my least favourite animal on the planet. Especially when they come in multiple forms and numbers. I’m not exaggerating when I tell you that the ground was crawling! Would I do it again? Well, not for a while, although this trip will go down in history as my encounter with a moving ground of hundreds of blood suckers, which I’m sure I’ll tell my kids about someday…

The scenery looked very idyllic, yet the floor was moving with leeches.

The only reason I managed to get up to the waterfall was because I didn’t want my friend Niki to think I was a wuss.

3. A Visit To Indonesia’s Only Living Root Bridge, Jembatan Akar.

There are pretty amazing bridges all over the world. When the engineer is Mother Earth herself, an entirely different type of product is produced: a living bridge.

Located over the Batang Bayang river approximately 88 kilometres South of Padang, one of these bridges can be found – supposingly the only living root bridge in Indonesia. The bridge is known as Jembatan Akar. It was created in 1890 by a Muslim teacher by the name of Pakih Sohan. He wanted students living on the other side of the river to be able to attend his classes. By stringing the roots of two banyan trees around a stem bridge he made this happen – even though it took 26 years until the bridge could actually be used. Since our visit to Jembatan Akar we’ve also seen the most amazing of all living root bridges: Umshiang Double Decker Living Root Bridge. Nature is just unbelievable.

Indonesia’s living root bridge Jembatan Akar, located south of Padang in Sumatra.

Jembatan Akar is 25 metres long, approximately 1.5 metres wide and spans 3 metres above the river.

4. A Ride With A Bemo.

The main form of public transport in Padang is by bemo. It’s normally a minibus or van with a row of low seats down each side. Bemo usually hold about 12 people in very cramped conditions.

Riding bemo can be part of your Bali adventure or a major nightmare depending on your outlook at that moment in time. You can certainly expect journeys to be rather lengthy and you’ll find that getting to many places is both time-consuming and inconvenient. It’s uncommon to see visitors on bemos in Padang, so be sure to get a lot of attention.

Make sure you know where you’re going, and accept that the bemo normally won’t leave until it’s full and will usually take a roundabout route to collect and deliver as many passengers as possible. If you get into an empty bemo, always make it clear that you do not want to charter it. (The word ‘charter’ is understood by all drivers.)

The main bemo station is located right next to the market in Padang.

5. A Visit To The Market.

We love markets, especially wet markets. Not only will you see all sorts of interesting food stuff, but you will meet the local community. You’ll get an insight on their way of living and traditions when browsing through the various market section. Sumatrans friendly and helpful people, who respect and welcome visitors. No matter what situation, they always wear a smile.

Vendors at the wet market in Padang are happy to spot tourists and are always good for a laugh.

Fish is a staple food across the entire country. Fresh tuna can be bought at almost every local market in Sumatra. Sever hundred kilos of tuna are sold at the wet market in Padang every day.

6. Observe The Fishermen At Bungus Beach.

Indonesia is richly endowed with marine natural resources, and its people are highly dependent upon them for food. So fishing is one of the main incomes across Sumatra. At the beaches near Padang, fishing is very often done directly from the beach. This method is called seine fishing. A seine is a fishing net that hangs vertically in the water with its bottom edge held down by weights and its top edge buoyed by floats. Seine nets can be deployed from the shore as a beach seine, or from a boat. At Bungus beach, the nets are hauled in manually with pure man-power. The process actually takes quite long (up to three hours, depending one the size of the net) and the outcome is not always that satisfying.

After the nets are pulled in, it’s time to check-out the catch. At Bungus beach, the fish is sold right on the spot.

Fishermen hauling in a beach seine at Bungus beach in Sumatra, Indonesia.

7. Relax On One Of The Islands Near Padang.

Just off the coast of Padang, you will not only come across the well-known Mentawais, but hundreds of little islands with pristine beaches, palm trees and not a single soul in sight. Whether you want to stay at a beautiful beach resort like Cubadak Paradiso Village Resort, or a place with a Robinson Cruiso feeling, the choice is yours. But most importantly, a visit to these islands makes you feel like you’re in a far away place, with nothing to worry about except those possible coconuts falling on your head while sunbathing on the beach…

Tropical beach paradises can be found just off the coast of Padang.

8. Taste The Delicious Padang Kitchen.

A typical Padang kitchen restaurant displays their already cooked dishes in the front window. Once you take your seat, instead of handing you a menu, different food dishes will be brought to you in bowls. Pick out the ones you want to eat and leave the rest. When you’re done, the server will come back, take a look at the dishes, and look what you ate and what you left behind. Then he’ll move the remaining dishes back to the front window. You only pay for what you ate. Believe me when I say that Padang kitchen is one of the most delicious cuisines in the world and my absolute favourite in Indonesia!

Padang Kitchen is the best cuisine in the world. You’re served several different dishes on small plates. Only what you eat has to be paid.

Location.

Rating: 5 out of 5

Imagine the series ‘Lost’; white sandy beaches, crystal clear water, dozens of palm trees, jungle forest, (almost) no people, wild animals (monkeys, boars, lizards) and the feeling of being lost. All that’s missing at Cubadak Resort is a crazy white bald dude like Lock and black smoke…

Cubadak is the only resort on the island, sharing it only with one little fishing village on the other side.

• Address: Pulau Cubadak, Padang, Indonesia
• Website: cubadak-paradisovillage

Comfort Level.

Rating: 5 out of 5

If I could, I’d give 10 points when it comes to the comfort level at Cubadak Resort! The bungalows are so roomy and comfortable, it’s hard to top that. A great balcony with comfy chairs, a spacious and western bathroom, a cute little working & living room area, plus a queen size bed on the second floor make up the perfect setting. A+!

Big Plus:

• Cubadak Resort only has 15 bungalows (plus one family bungalow and one above the water). This means, that you’ll never have more that approx. 40 people on the islands and with three different beaches, that’s pretty good.

Negative:

• Plastic bags on the beach. The beach is amazing, really. Yet at the far end of it (which was right in front of our bungalow), quite a lot of plastic bags & bottles lied around – not enough to ask them why they don’t clean up but enough for us to notice. They’re not from the resort (everything is very clean there) but the ocean just washes up all sorts of stuff from time to time. It looked like someone hadn’t cleaned up in a while…

My recommendation would be to have one staff member run up and down the beach once a day to collect all the rubbish that the ocean washes up. This shouldn’t take longer that one hour per day (at the maximum) and would make a big difference.

Food & Drinks.

Rating: 5 out of 5

It’s better not to come here if you’re on a diet. You won’t last a day without tasting the delicious food at Cubadak Resort.

This is really the part where Western influence kicks-in. The know-how of combining traditional Indonesian cuisine with Western style dishes is mastered to perfection. You’ll always get a great variety of vegetables, meat & fish, as well as some amazing desert like fresh lemon tart or home-made banana ice cream (dinner only). Yummy! Some of the best food I’ve had in Indonesia!

Tip:

• Try the home-made Sambal sauce – it’s so delicious!

Service & Hospitality.

Rating: 2 out of 5

If you stay at Cubadak Resort for more than 3 nights, a free pick-up service from Padang airport is included. This is definitely a good choice, since the drive to the dock takes about 2 hours, followed by a 15-minute boat ride to the island.

At first, you’re treated like a king/queen and the owners are very welcoming and open; yet day after day, you’ll realise that the vibes on the island aren’t all that good. Especially if you’re not one of those clients who buy alcoholic drinks or spend extra money on something.

Big Plus:

• Scuba Diving Possibility (1 dive US$ 45 / equipment for one day US$ 27) – Try the night dive, it’s definitely the most exciting diving in the area.

Price Range.

Rating: 2 out of 5

Cubadak Resort is expensive … far too expensive for my taste.

The biggest benefit is the fact that Cubadak Resort has the island to itself. This is clearly the only reason why I’d pay such an amount of money anyway, because everything else (nice bungalows, fantastic food, etc.) can be found elsewhere too. Don’t get me wrong, everything was perfect and in general I can’t complain, yet the impression of greed running through the resort – from the owners only – makes up 1 out of 5 points.

Negative Examples:

• For US$ 110 per person, per night, I’d really think that at least a couple of soft drinks would be included. Nope. Definitely a big downer, because cravings for an ice cold Coke from time to time really do arise. If you do intent to spoil yourself a little, be aware that with 195ml you won’t get far (price list below).

My recommendation would be to have the mini bar filled with 1 Coke and 1 other soft drink and have these drinks free of charge for every day. This would make a great difference in the impression guest get.

• WiFi is not for free. Ok, so I definitely agree that it’s not a bad thing to have a couple of days without the internet. Nothing can be so important that it can’t wait. But when you’re staying 10 days or longer, one might start thinking that a quick e-mail check wouldn’t be a bad thing. We were told that there is an internet line, yet it’s very slow and expensive. Fair enough, I understand this 100%, yet (again) for US$ 110 per person per night; I’d expect to at least have some sort of access for free (also because the owners are on the internet pretty much all the time…).

My recommendation would be to have one hour of internet connection per bungalow per day for free. This way, no one can complain and the owners don’t have to worry about rapidly increasing costs.

• We know our way around Indonesia & Sumatra especially. We’ve been here many times and therefore also know some locals in the area around Padang. We got in touch with our friend Niki to arrange a boat trip (one entire day), since we also wanted to see a little bit of the area. Seems like the owners of Cubadak Resort were not amused about this. Right after arriving back at the resort, they came up to us and asked us what we did, where we were and how we liked it … fair enough, but then they started chatting in Bahasa Indonesia with Niki and of course we couldn’t understand a word. They immediately wanted to know what he had charged us. He told them (1.2 million Ruppees = approx. 100.00 US$) and they asked how he was able to make a business like this – no wonder, have a look at the prices of Cubadak’s boat excursions below – and he told them that this was only because we were friends.

My recommendation would be to get over yourselves! Just because there are other resorts in the area, doesn’t mean that they’re going to steal your customers. We didn’t check into a prison when arriving at Cubadak, and in all my years of travelling, I have never experiences a place where friends are not welcome and you’re not ‘allowed’ to step outside the premises!

Fact: Only about 1 hour away from Cubadak Resort you’ll find places on deserted islands for less that US$ 30 per night – yet the comfort level can’t be compared and you’ll feel more like Robinson Cruiso (also because you need to bring your own food). Still, alternatives around the area can be found…

Here’s a quick overview of the most important prices:

Sleeping.

• 1 night per person (including breakfast, lunch & dinner but without drinks – except coffee and tea): US$ 110.00

Food & Drinks.

• Soft Drink – 195ml (Coke, etc.): US$ 4.00
• Beer: US$ 4.00
• Coffee: US$ 2.50
• Cocktail: US$ 11.00

Internet.

• Per Hour: US$ 4.00

Boat Trip (I’d suggest you sit down now).

• Per Hour: US$ 80.00
• Half Day: US$ 350.00

Overall Feedback & Impression.

Rating: 3.8 out of 5

Cubadak Resort is a great spot on a paradise island without having to travel for a week to get there. The bungalows, food and the location are really perfect – not one thing I could say about this. For short-term visitors, my rating would probably be higher, but since we stayed here long-term, I need to be honest. It’s the little things that count, and at Cubadak, a lot of little things are not up to the standard they should. The owners clearly try to keep their guest from getting in contact with any locals who don’t live on the island (at least this is the impression I got over those 10 days). Why? I’d say business reasons only! (Unfortunately) It’s all about money. Well, all in all lots of small things turn to big ones, therefore I can only give 3.8 out of 5 points.

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. With a maximum of 15 bungalows, Cubadak is a great spot to rest and refill your batteries.

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. This is the view of the dock up from the mountain.

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. Again the view from the mountain – this is the “Family Villa” which can also be used as a “Honeymoon Villa” a bit away from the other bungalows.

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. The view up from the mountain is pretty stunning. Here you can see the mainland of West Sumatra.

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. The hike up the mountain is a real highlight, because you’ll feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere.

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. This is the view from the dock … paradise ahoi!

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. Another view form the dock; sea turtles can be seen all around the resort.

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. We organised our own boat trip and the owners were not amused about that…

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. If someone asked me where paradise is, my answer would be simple: West Sumatra!

Cubadak Paradiso Village Beach Resort in West Sumatra, Indonesia. This is the nicest rainbow I have ever seen … especially with this paradise as a surrounding.

I was born on April 27th, 1986. My parents were travel enthusiasts and one would think that a baby would settle them down a little. Well, not the kind of parents I have. And thank God for that, because my journey began straight out of the maternity ward…

Africa – How It All Started.

My parents were fixing up their Unimog to convert it into a mini-apartment for one of their long-term African adventure – this time with me in tow. The truck would become our home for the next year (or so), so things needed to be in place for the journey to start. I quickly adjusted to the fact that my sandpit would become the Sahara desert, that my toys came out of the toolbox and that I would take my first steps between jerry cans, spare parts and sand sheets.

So we set off to Africa on a truly remarkable journey, and I was right in the middle all the time – not only because my place was mainly in the baby capsule in the middle front seat but also because I opened a lot of doors with my baby smile; even the grimmest custom officers, check-point soldiers or police chiefs couldn’t resist me :D It was always “baby first“.

I never got sick and mum had 800 nappies packed in the trunk. Actually, we had all the fun in the sun, 24 hours together with both parents – a rare privilege for a child.

By the age of one, I had 15 countries under my wings.

Those were the good times…

Back To Civilisation – but not for long.

Back in civilisation, the longing for travelling prevailed and it didn’t take long until we flew to Malaysia. This was the time when walkmans just conquered the market – omg how cool was that?! Now, even the longest, roughest bus rides through Sarawak didn’t bother me at all. It was “Bibi Blocksberg” or “Fünf Freunde” all day long. Mum also bought my first bike there – not only to speed things up (after all I was only four years old) but also to make me happy because I hated walking for hours. I was certainly the first Western kid cycling through Kota Kinabalu. We had a couple of rules like “Always stop in front of a street” or “Don’t run anyone over (not even a chicken)” and this worked really well for both of us.

Mum Knowns Best.

Yup, mum’s definitely do know best. She knew how to handle every situation, or how to keep me busy…

Giddyup Down Under.

We continued to Australia. And since Down Under is cattle country, I was on a horse by the age of five. It was mum’s idea to become a Jillaroo, so living on a farm in N.S.W. was not a problem any more. We adjusted well and blended in like all the others.

Busy Bangkok.

Bangkok train station was hot, humid and busy and we had to get tickets. While mum disappeared through the crowds, I stayed put with (or better on) our luggage. She told me that I had to ‘protect’ the bags and made a game out of it so that I would really watch out. In case someone wanted to grab them – or me – I should just start screaming. I looked pretty grim and nobody tried to steal anything after all.

Bangkok held another incident for us. I once got lost in the toy section of a shopping centre. I didn’t notice it at all, but in the meantime my mother frantically alerted the entire staff and they announced through speakers that a little blond girl was missing. After one hour they found me; I was happily playing in a changing room & mum almost had a heart attack.

At a market in Bangkok.

Sri Lanka.

We climbed Adam’s Peak and stayed at Brown’s Beach Hotel in Yala for a while. All the local kids listened to my command :D Sand, waves and sun – perfect!

Back in the days, a “white” kid was still a real attraction…

Indonesia, my second home.

School stopped travelling for a while, but mum decided it was time to learn some proper English. So she simply took me our of elementary school and decided to hit the road again. Down Under is was once more. Getting there took quite a few of months, because Indonesia was en route. All my friends where going to school back home, and I was studying on a remote island; cycling for PE lesson, Maths in the hammock and German under the stars – not too bad if you ask me :) And of course, the island kids where curiously watching as always. Oh and I’ll tell you, mum was definitely a tough teacher!

Beside the day to day school work, I learned how to fish and how to survive in a remote place, without modern gadgets of any kind. While my friends at home teased their pets, I targeted the Komodo Dragons with a slingshot … yeah, those where the good times for sure!

In Togean Islands, I had my first diving experience when dad went down to 20m depth with me in tow (just one octopus and one bottle of oxygen). Fun for me, but mum on the surface simply freaked out and tried to harpoon dad after getting me out of the water. Imagine all the Indonesian gloating over our family dispute :)

When leaving Togean Islands, we hired one seaworthy looking vessel. What we didn’t know was, that it was the captain’s first journey to the mainland, so he missed our destination by far, and we steamed along the coast to find a landing point. Right before sunset we arrived in a small fishing village, in a beautiful bay with stilt houses. When we came closer, many little canoes started paddling toward us and we got stuck between sea and shore. Everybody was screaming and welcoming us. We felt like Lady Di on Australia tour…crazy I tell you! They told us no tourists ever had been to this village before. This warm welcome preceded a week’s stay at the mayor’s house. Luckily he had just acquired a new TV with satellite connection, so I got in charge of the remote control immediately, plus the best and only chair on the veranda. Me in the chair and all the villagers on the floor around me, sitting in front of the TV watching “Cartoon Network” was a pretty funny sight for my parents. Honestly, this was actually my most memorable travel experience until today. Ever since that trip, we came back to Indo at least once a year and today I call it my second home.

On a ferry to some remote island…

In Timor with a lot of school kids.

Having fun with kids in Sulawesi…

The travelling never stopped and today, I feel very grateful for having seen so many different places of our beautiful planet.

What about you? How did you catch the travel bug?

This time, our destination is Southeast Asia; Malaysia, Cambodia and Indonesia to be exact. 4 weeks on the road. From temple running in Angkor, to shopping sprees in Kuala Lumpur, from a 10-hour-volcano-jungle-trek near Bukittingi to a quite beach holiday on the Mentawai Islands – we’ve got it all planned. We’re leaving today, so our bags are packed and now it’s all down to business!

And here are our travel essentials for a 4-week trip through Southeast Asia.

Mountains In Sumatra.

Gunung Kerinci is an active volcano and with 3.805 meters it’s also the highest mountain yet still (more or less) easy accessible. With the occasional eruptions, the walk through the rainforest is incredible because the flora there is so rich and beautiful.

National Parks In Sumatra.

Gunung Leuser National Park is still a true virgin rainforest – thanks to the difficult terrain. The park is a world heritage site since 2004 and a great choice for trekking or watching the wildlife. Bukit Lawang was the most famous Orang Utan Rehabilitation Center, which adjacent to Gunung Leuser National Park, but since a torrential flash flood swept through the valley in 2003 (a few tourists and about 250 locals died & the entire village was destroyed) the Orang Utan (translates: Orang = person, Utan = forest) Center was relocated to Bukit Tigah Puluh National Park. This park is about 200 km East of Padang, where you can even see the rare Sumatran Tiger. This National Park is not so well known and a good way away from the beaten path so therefore everything is much more authentic and a bit more difficult to access. Unfortunately Sumatra is not spared from deforestation (of course). It is threatening the entire area around these wonderful National Parks. The land is cleared for planting oil palms (elaeis guinneensis) and teak.

Lakes In Sumatra.

Sumatra also offers you some really beautiful lakes: the most famous one is Danau (= lake) Toba with a very large island in the middle. Lots of guest-houses wait for exhausted travellers and it’s a a really nice area to rest for a couple of days. We visited Danau Singkarak on our last trip to Sumatra. We drove around by motorbike along the rice paddies – it was an easy ride yet we still got to see some wonderful impressions. For example we drive through a couple of villages where thousands of fish were dried along the road (I guess these lakes still contain a lot of fish).

Culture In Sumatra.

Sumatra is rich in culture and tribal heritage. People still use local methods for all kind of their daily routine. For example: to make yoghurt you simply need fresh bamboo, cut it in pieces and fill it up with fresh cow milk. Let it stand for a couple of hours (in the warm climate) and you get the best yoghurt. It was the best one we’ve eaten throughout our southeast Asia trip! Milk products are one of the few things that we really miss during our travels, so this is a good recipe.

Beaches In Sumatra.

And then of course there are the beaches … lots of wonderful tropical beaches. We’ve seen many many amazing beaches during our years of travelling but Sumatra’s coast (plus the Mentawai Islands) truly is one of the best places for a beach adventure – without breaking your budget. The surf is abundant and one of the best surf spots in the world (Nias) can be found on these islands.

You should be a bit adventurous, flexible and curious to explore this part of the world because it is still not an area for a package tourist. Get in touch with us for further information and travel tips :)

Here Are Some Impression Of Sumatra:

Sumatra has thick virgin forests, lush vegetation, rice fields, mountain streams, rivers, waterfalls and sandy beaches.

Island hopping in Sumatra is a great way to explore the wonderful tropical beaches.

Striking evidence of the earthquake remains in the city of Padang in spots like Pasar Raya, the central market, a massive hulk of collapsed concrete around which vendors have set up hundreds of makeshift shops.

Fish is a staple food across the entire country. Fresh tuna can be bought at almost every local market in Sumatra.

Bemos are the local taxi’s all over Indonesia with Padang as a major hub.

And old abandoned typical house “Sumatra Style”.

Jembatan Akar is Indonesia’s Living Root Bridge. Located over the Batang Bayang river in West Sumatra, Indonesia, a bridge made of living tree roots connects two villages.

Fishermen in their typical fishing boat off the coast of Sumatra.

A woman glances up while working in a rice field in Sumatra.

Fishermen pulling in a catch at Bungus beach in Sumatra.

Padang Kitchen is the best cuisine in the world. You’re served several different dishes on small plates. Only what you eat has to be paid.

A sad-looking Orang Utan in the zoo of Bukittinggi in Sumatra. Stop animal captivity!

Wrecked tanker ship off the coast of Padang in Sumatra.

The people in Sumatra (and actually all over Indonesia) are friendly and welcoming.

A tropical paradise off the coast of Sumatra.

The Aftermath Of The Earthquake In 2009.

Padang is not really comparable with other cities in Indonesia; it’s a lot more orderly, clean and organized. Wide roads cross the city and a lot of buildings are quite new. The reason for this is the complete rebuilding of Padang after a strong earthquake hit the capital of West Sumatra on September 30th, 2009. A lot of buildings are still badly damaged and it’s will take a while until all the traces are gone. Especially the market area was pretty badly hit and the damage still can be seen around this part of Padang. But the government is working on it and construction is under way.

The aftermath of an earthquake in the center of Padang. Around 135.000 houses were severely damaged, 65.000 houses were moderately damaged and 79.000 houses were slightly damaged.

Some parts of Padang are still destroyed. An estimated 1.250.000 people have been affected by the earthquake.

Arriving In Padang. Where To Stay?

We came from Kuala Lumpur with Air Asia. Though the airport is 30 km outside the city, an airport bus is always available when a flight arrives. If you are a foreigner and your hotel is not too far from their route, they will drop you off there, this was the first nice impression. We stayed at “Golden Homestay” on Jalan Ipah Nr.1. It’s a pleasant place with huge rooms and a very helpful crew! Opposite you find “Spice Homestay”, also very nice but there you better book in advance since it’s often full.

Also South of Padang (about 20 km) is Pantai Bungus with a few guest-houses like “Losmen Carlos” or “Losmen Tin Tin”. They can arrange trips to an uninhabited island as well. Bring food and water if you want the real “Robinson” feeling. On the island you rather can either take a bungalow or set up tent … or sleep in the hammock like we did :)

The Local Cuisine.

One thing that should not be missed is the local cuisine. “Padang kitchen” is one of the best! Chicken curry or Sayur Nagkar (a curry dish made from jack fruit) as well as other different meals are served in little plates. It’s so damn good, that I’m getting hungry just thinking about it…

Padang Kitchen is the best cuisine in the world. You’re served several different dishes on small plates. Only what you eat has to be paid.

Transportation.

We immediately noticed the new hype about lowering and chipping the local taxis or bemos. The drivers seem to be very proud of their vehicles and it’s definitely nothing you get to see very often :)

Bemos are the local taxi’s all over Indonesia with Padang as a major hub.

The Local Market.

The market is, as always a real meeting point and a lot of action going on. Around the corner is a huge western style supermarket as well – good enough to buy provision “western style”, like butter, yoghurt or cheese, if one plans to spend some time on an island.

Fresh fish is always available at the market in Padang.

Not only fresh fish is sold at the market in Padang. The meat section is definitely nothing for the faint-hearted.

Off To A Tropical Island.

Padang is the stepping off point to all the Mentawais. A bit South of Padang in Teluk Gayur, ferries are anchored which set off mostly in the evening for an overnight trip to the islands. You will not believe what kind of beach paradise awaits you there!

High Class Island Hotel Tip: Cubadak Paradiso Village Resort.

Robinson Crusoe feeling in West Sumatra.

Of course I would only want to stay there during the dry season (yes, I’m picky when it comes to rain & snow haha). I know what it can look like if it rains for days … during our visit to Thailand in 2011, we left the tropical island of Koh Kood after four straight days of thunderstorms. Rain & beach is definitely not fun!

Anyway, back to my wanderlust fantasy of the day: Tropical beach paradise … all you need for this fantasy to come true is the time to stay and the money to get there :)