Mechua Market.

The men at Mechua market are in charge of oranges, bananas, pineapples, pomegranate and many other fruits of the season. Trucks arrive 24/7 and wait in the surrounding areas to get a parking lot to be unloaded. Most of the fruits are sold right on the spot. Men carrying trunks of bananas show up in front of an auctioneer and after a quick bidding session, the trunk is sold and the next man with another banana trunk takes place. With this system, an entire truckload of fruits is quickly sold to people who distribute them to different places all over West Bengal.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India

Portrait of a hard working man at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working man at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Fresh pomegranate at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India

Unloading a truck at Mechua Market in Kolkata, India.

Kolay Market.

Pretty much the same goes for Kolay market just opposite Sealdah Train station. This is the place for cucumbers, onions, pumpkins, eggplant and any other vegetable of the season. Men, day labours – mostly from Bihar – work in long shifts to unload trucks that arrive from all over West Bengal. They earn about 500 Rupees (4-6 €) a day and travel home to their families only once a year. Needless to say, this work is taking it’s toll on their health… They sleep in dormitories in the first floors of the warehouses just above their workplace, so if a truck arrives, they are ready to unload immediately.

Hard working men at Kolay Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Kolay Market in Kolkata, India.

Hard working men at Kolay Market in Kolkata, India.

Selling fresh vegetables at Kolay Market in Kolkata, India.

Posta Burrabazar.

For garlic and ginger you have to travel to another area in the city. This market is close to Howrah bridge not too far away from the Mullik Ghat flower market on the way to Nimtala burning Ghat. You smell the loads of garlic that are repacked into smaller quantities immediately. This work is mostly done by women.

Street scene at Posta Burrabazar in Kolkata, India.

At Mullik Ghat flower market near Howrah bridge in Kolkata, India.

If you want to see what it’s like to walk through these markets, check out the videos in this post.

Markets are the heart of every city. No matter what time of the day, markets are always busy with peak hours early in the morning. They are vibrant, exciting, colourful and full of amazing impressions.

During our 36 hours in Kuala Lumpur, it was clear that the cities biggest market, Chow Kit, was on our agenda. You pretty much find everything you need right here – from household goods to fresh fish. Oh yeah, fresh fish is a good keyword; the wet market section immediately caught our attention. Such market is a rare scene in Kuala Lumpur because of its development.

Be aware!

This is nothing for light hearted, animal loving or smell sensitive people; the wet market section is dirty, humid, packed, smelly and literally wet. I really recommend to directly head towards a hot shower afterwards before continuing with your programme, because at the end of the market, you’ll have picked up an odour of fish, dead chicken, cloves cigarettes with a touch of lime and ginger…

Facts.

• Address: Northern end of Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, 50088 Kuala Lumpur
• Opening hours: Daily from 6.00 am – 5.00 pm
• How to get there: Take the Monorail line and stop at Chow Kit station. Walk for about 5 minutes and voilà.

The fish section at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur also includes sharks…

Chicken Section at Chow Kit Maket. Step 1: Killing the chicken. Step 2: Boiling the chicken. Step 3: Plucking the chicken. Step 4: Chopping the chicken.

Smiling cow’s head at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

One of the walkways through Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Fresh squid at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Dried squid at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Walking through the meat section at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Fresh fish at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

walking through the banana section at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Fresh lime at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Colourful head-scarfs can also be found at Chow Kit market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

What an experience!

The wholesale market for fruits and vegetables in Kolkata is an experience that is really difficult to describe. You make your way through dozens of trucks, which are parked only centimetres apart from each other, hundreds of porters, vendors, auctioneers, buyers and people who load & unload the trucks from their precious cargo – fresh fruits and vegetables that arrive here every morning from all over India, to be auctioned off right on the spot.

Words & photos are good for imagining such ongoing activities, but we also put together a little video (with out iPhone, so please excuse the quality) of the market’s happenings. This way, you’ll not only get an impression on the number of fruits auctioned off, the people who roam these streets, the heavy goods that need to be loaded onto trucks, but also the constant noise level…

Oranges, pineapples and bananas.

On the day of our visit, the main fruits that had just arrived were oranges, pineapples and bananas. Bananas (still on the stem) are a very attractive fruit and are sold piece by piece. How that works is that one porter stands in front of the truck, with the banana stalk on his head for display, while the auctioneer is shouting out the price. It’s a fast business, and all over sudden the bananas disappear in someone’s box or basket, and the next stalk is brought out for the auction.
With oranges it’s a bit different; they’re stacked up in a pyramid shape and sold tower-wise.

Obviously this place is hardly ever visited by foreigners. Many people asked how and why we came there and they were quite astonished when we said that we just wanted to have a look around.

We had the best time and the vendors seemed to ‘enjoy’ our company. A trader gave us apples from Kashmir as a present and everybody was keen to have his picture taken. It was a really great experience, yet it was a bit difficult to move along, because we didn’t want to be in anyone’s way … especially not if they’re carrying a 50 pound basket!

Working men at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Working men at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Working men at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Working men at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Biddings at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Working men at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Working men at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Working men at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Baskets full of papayas the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

Working men at the the fruit wholesale market in Kolkata, India.

If you start exploring the area just a little North of Shamian Island (Shamian itself has kept its beauty from the past – only the White Swan Hotel is a more modern building), you’ll walk through a very old part of this city. Of course it’s also interrupted with new buildings, but a lot of the area still has its original charm with “gated” communities. Beside bicycles and electric motorbikes, only pedestrians can be seen here, because the roads and walkways are too narrow for cars.

A city within the city.

Inside such a gated area, you’ll come across lots of vibrant outdoor activities all day long: Elderly residents meet in the street to play a game of Majong, others work out on gymnastic apparatuses and neighbours meet up in front of ones apartment. Washing is hung up in the street, while kids play soccer in some corners and old grannies walk along hand-in-hand in their pyjamas. Every area also has its own ‘shopping centre’ – its actually more like a market area, with all sorts of different stalls. You’ll find everything a Chinese family needs; from household goods, food, live poultry and fish, an adjoining post office, a hairdresser and a tea shop … and sometimes even a gambling shop, where you can play the lottery for example.

The local life here is very peaceful, while the hustle and bustle from the streets outside has no effect within the gates. At least this is what it looked like to us. We’ve never been into one of these flats though. Most probably they’re a bit crammed and small, but the residents still seem to enjoy their lives in the old quarters of Guangzhou.

Walking through the old quarter of Guangzhou is really peaceful and a nice change to the otherwise super busy city.

A typical apartment block in Guangzhou.

A typical apartment building in Guangzhou.

Bicycles are the best way to get around the old quarters in Guangzhou.

Women selling goods at a market in Guangzhou.

Walking along the old quarter in Guangzhou is really relaxing and makes you feel like you’re in a small village out in the countryside.

Many Chinese use a bicycle to get around the side streets of Guangzhou.

Fresh chicken – ready for the pot – at Huayuan market in Guangzhou.

Walking along a side street in the old quarter of Guangzhou.

A group of people playing Mahjong in Guangzhou.

Arriving “In Style”.

We arrived in Sadarghat Port “in style”: first class travel on the Rocket Steamer “Ostrich”, which is the flagship of the Bangladesh inland water transport authority. If you intend to travel by ferry in Bangladesh, this is a good and reliable source, though there are other companies as well.

Anyway, after leaving the ship, our “first class” travel was over for now. Rain had turned the road into a pool of mud and we were dirty faster than we could walk. An avid Rickshaw driver immediately tried to seduce us into his vehicle, even though he had no idea where we wanted to go and didn’t speak a single word of English – as all the others around him did. Still, thanks to the genius idea of the taking a photo of Dhaka with our iPhone, we were able to specify the direction of our hotel. With some stops and crowd gatherings, the poor Rickshaw puller finally knew our destination: “Hotel Pacific” in Mothijel, a suburb not too far from the harbour.

Hotel & Train Tickets.

The hotel was not an eye catcher at all. It was somehow in a renovating process, but good enough for the time being, with working A/C and running water in the bathroom. Our first night in Dhaka was secured. Phweew. Immediately after checking in, we started to roam the city. Our first destination was to the train station to get our tickets to Chittagong, because we were eager to see the Ship Breaking Yard. As it turned out, this was not an easy task, because upcoming Eid brought many people into the travelling mood to visit their loved ones at home.

But, that didn’t keep us from getting our tickets … plus, the train station was an interesting place to visit anyway. We always like these hubs, where people come and go, because, there’s action happening. And we even had a surreal encounter… While standing in line for the tickets, a local Bangladeshi all over sudden shouted to us “Hello, where you come from?” … We told him that we were from Austria and then he enthusiastic answered: “Ahhh, ich bin auch aus Österreich!” (which means “I’m also from Austria” in German) … We’re fellow countrymen! Where are you from in Austria?” … The conversation went on for about 10 minutes and it turned out, that he worked just around the corner from my office in Vienna. The world can truly be a tiny place! It was sort of funny, because this man was the only “foreigner” we saw during our 4 week journey through Bangladesh.

Exploring the Area & Sadarghat Port.

After we got our train tickets, we looked out for a Rickshaw driver to drive us around a little bit. All of them wanted us as customers but nobody got where we wanted to go … finally one was smart enough to realize that we just wanted to cycle around to explore the area and that we’d give him directions as we go. We spent the entire afternoon with him. We bought him lunch & tea and he was obviously very happy to cycle us around. In Sadarghat we got out for a tour of the harbour with one of the many rowing boats. Luckily we found an English speaking porter who managed to explain to the boatman that we just wanted row up and down the river for an hour or so. This porter hopped on our sightseeing trip as well, as did two other people … We didn’t mind, since the boat was large enough to hold us all. This was definitely a highlight during our entire Bangladesh trip!

Back on land, our Rickshaw driver waited and brought us back to our hotel, from where we continued to find a restaurant. During Ramadan, this can definitely keep you busy for a while because people only start eating after dark. We found some nice looking food stalls near the big mosque covered with curtains so that nobody could see inside. We bought some great food we’ve never eaten before: A grapefruit salad mixed with onions, cumin powder and coriander – one of the most refreshing salads for such a hot climate. It was sooo delicious and we returned there every evening while our stay in Dhaka.

On our stroll back to our hotel we passed Hotel Purbani, which looked a lot better than ours. We had a look at the rooms and immediately made a reservation for the next day. 33 US $ per room with working Wi-Fi convinced us to change places.

With this new hotel, we spend another couple of days in Dhaka…after all, there was much more to be explored!

Some Impressions.

A Rikschaw driver in Old Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Loading a launch at Sadarghat port in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Sadarghat harbour in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Sadarghat harbour in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Sadarghat harbour in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Sadarghat harbour in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Train station in Chittagong, Bangladesh.

Since I had travelled through Africa many times already, nothing could really bother me any more. I was not particularly excited to see India. Back then I was more focused on Africa.

It was a windy January day and after checking into the hotel, Nisa and I took the free shuttle bus to Connaught Place. From there we hired a Tuk-Tuk. “Where do you want to go?” the driver asked. “Well just drive around for a while. I want to see the real life in India.” I replied.

Tuk Tuks waiting for customers at the train station in New Delhi, India.

Then the trip started; first of all, I didn’t feel all that comfy in this little 3 wheeler with all the traffic but no risk, no fun. Right and left were big buses and the driver had the nerves like a leading lion between his flock. He seemed to know what he was doing. With his driving skills, he squeezed through the smallest loopholes in this gigantic traffic-mesh. I held Nisa and just thought that if it has to happen, it has to happen. Anyway, it didn’t take long for me to get used to the fact that Tuk-Tuk drivers in India are drive the way they drive.

On the first roundabout with a concrete pedestal in the middle, a bunch of kids – not older than 6 years – were sleeping around a traffic sign post; dirty, filthy, wrapped in rags … this was one of those sights that I will never forget. I looked at Nisa (who was around 10 years old back then) and cold shivers went up and down my spine.

Estimated a quarter of the Indian population live in slum areas and nobody knows exactly how many people there actually are … But one should never forget that there is a very small minority of really (!) wealthy Indians too. Sometimes you’ll read about these in the news papers around the world. For example: “Richest Indian built multimillion dollar skyscraper in Mumbai!” When reading these headlines, I wonder what these “richies” actually think of their fellow citizens?! To build something gigantic like the most expensive home in the world (with a price over 1 billion US$) in a city that has hundreds of thousands of homeless people doesn’t seem appropriate at all! What a douche bag! I wouldn’t feel comfy in my billion dollar home when I saw what was going on right around the next street corner … but that’s just me. Oh and while we’re talking about millionaires … there’s absolutely no such thing as a real “Slumdog Millionaire”. It was a weird example, created by Hollywood screenwriters sitting in their luxury houses while writing such nonsense to just make more money. Some of the child actors still living in slums. Seriously?! Many years ago on a trip through California, we bought a fridge sticker which said “Religion is what keeps the poor from murdering the rich“. If you’ve ever been to India, you’ll know it’s true …

The next “Slumdog Millionaires”? If it’s up to Hollywood, yes.

Anyway, many years have passed now and we’ve been to India a few times and many very strange sights have crossed our path. For us Westerners, it’s not normal to see people dying in the streets, bodies being transported on roof racks, watching kids sniff glue which they found in the rubbish or even seeing corpses floating by while your eating breakfast – in India this is reality and part of the daily routine.

Carrying a dead body to the Ganges river in India.

Usually the deceased are lowered from the roof of the car and carried to the cremation area by relatives or friends. Only holy people, pregnant women and children are not cremated – these bodies are “buried” directly in the Ganges river with the result, that a lot of them surface after a while and float down with the stream. People bathing right next to a body is not unusual, especially in the very holy cities like Varanasi or Hardwar along the Ganges river. And believe it or not, you can also have the … unexpected experience of seeing a dog gnawing on left over hands or feet of not fully cremated bodies (maybe because the rain interrupted the process).

Dead body floating by in Varanasi, India.

Yes, you need to be a tough fella if you want to experience the real side of India …

Of course there are exceptions to be found – like for example only men sell tobacco – but the rest is in the hand of women. I guess that men rather tend to keep cattle than selling it. Why? I can only speculate :) Maybe it’s easier to walk around with the herds all day, lying under a tree and dreaming about the new cellphone … nah, I’m just kidding :D But I do have to say that during all of our travels, we’ve noticed that a lot of really tough work (carrying rocks in India and so on) is done by women. I’d really be interested on why this is the case. Input anyone?

Market woman in Laos selling vegetable.

Market woman in Laos selling fish.

Market woman selling meat.

Local business at a market in Laos.

Women selling goods.

Anyway, on a well assorted market (if you come at the right time in the morning) everything is in full swing; people are arriving and leaving … some of them even travel the entire night to sell their goods at the weekly market. It’s a place of gossiping – which is very women like of course – and chit chat. At least before the mobile phone was introduced to the even remotest area … So the markets are always a noisy affair and people tend to check goods which they are going to buy very thoroughly (whether these are veggies, herbs, eggs or meat).

Fried maggots.

Bugs at a market in Laos.

Fish at a market in Laos.

Yes, and at these markets you can find things that will never ever (!) appear in a (western) supermarket.

The photos below are all very bearable (in our opinion) but if you want the “real tough stuff”, you should check out our article about wet markets around the world (caution – this is nothing for veggies or vegans!!)

1. Bush meat (alive or dead).

Bush meat is still a common sight on many markets in remote areas – no matter if the animal is protected or not. One has to understand that these people are mostly not very educated and well, meat is meat … One of these protected animals is the Aguti. It’s a very rare endangered rodent. We spotted an animal on a market in Thakhek, which looked quite similar. We we’re only able to take one picture because the stall woman covered it immediately and it was gone when we came back to the stall after a while.

A dead Aguti at a market in Vientiane, Laos.

Bush meat at a market in Laos.

2. All sorts of other dead animals.

Whether it’s just a fish or a skinned bulls head – you’ll find whatever your heart desires (not desires for that matter).

3. Fresh vegetables.

The Lao kitchen is one of the best in Asia. If you know what not to eat (pork, etc.), you pretty much can’t go wrong with whatever is on the menu. Vegetables are always fresh and tasty!

4. Fresh fruits.

If you’re a fruit lover, South-east Asia is the right spot for you. You’ll get fresh papayas, mangoes, pineapples, water melons, rambutans and many many more at any market.

5. A lot of people.

As I already said, people come together at markets, so it can be a very crowded place. Especially if the market is only once a week. Then the entire village (and of course the surrounding villages) can be found there. So, if one wants a true experience of a country and their people, one of the first visits should be to the local market.

This video by Lukas Augustin shows Afghanistan from a different side. He (and his fiance) travelled from Kabul and Mazar-e Sharif to capture the daily life of the people of the country that connects the Middle East and Central Asia. And well … they did a fantastic job!

China is the place where noodles were produced first. Marco Polo brought them back to Europe from his travels through Asia. Yet, the difference comes with the noodle production, which makes a real noodle restaurant in China so unique. The base is the same all over the globe: flour, salt and water.

First step for the perfect noodles.

Second step for the perfect noodles.

As you will see in the video below, it’s important to get the right softness, otherwise the noodles will not turn out “the right way”. It really needs a lot of practise to become a real noodle chef. After waiting a while he takes a piece of dow and gently folds it into noodles just with his hands, folding and folding, as the dow gets thinner and thinner. It looks so easy, but for somebody who is not used to do it,  it’s nearly impossible because the dow cracks after the first or second folding.

The soup base (made from beef)  is boiled freshly every day. Then it’s your choice what you ad; some people love a lot of greenies, like Pak Choi or Coriander, others like to add a fried egg and some prefer the rather local version with chopped cartilage from the soup.

The chef knows how it’s done.

This dish and the knowledge of making these noodles originally comes from western China & most of the places are run by muslims. You can’t go wrong with this dish in China. It’s always freshly cooked and these restaurants all have a high turnover because locals love the noodle soup. It’s also one of the few dishes (that we) found in China which has a bit of a “western taste”. So there you have it! “Manmanchi” (I hope that’s the right translation for “bon appetit”!).