Booking the trip from from Port Blair via Kolkata was a bit challenging from Guwahati. Due to the heavy monsoon in Megahalya the internet connectivity was often interrupted. So we didn’t have the time to check out these islands thoroughly and were on our way faster than expected.

If you have a lot of time and are up for adventure, take the ferry ship from Kolkata to Port Blair, Andaman Islands.

The flight with Indigo was smooth except for the last fifteen minutes; then it got a bit bumpy and the look out of the window showed thick clouds…

Nevertheless, the landing went smoothly and Port Blair greeted us with tiny sun-rays after a heavy thunderstorm. Custom officers picked us out immediately to provide us with this very important special permit – without it, you can’t travel anywhere on the Andaman Islands since police checks are very common.

The main street in Port Blair, Andaman Islands.

After checking into Aashiana Residency guest house, we immediately walked to the jetty nearby to get tickets for the next day to Long Island. Booking the tickets for the ferry was a bit time consuming all over the Andaman Islands. As was getting a bus ticket. Try to bring several passport and visa copies, plus some copies of the special permit because authorities and hotels will ask for it on every occasion. If you’re female, insist on a “lady-line” – even if there doesn’t seem to be one. This will at least reduce your waiting time. So after a bit of a hassle (which is normal all over India), we finally got our tickets.

Our ferry “Jolly Buoy” waiting in Port Blair’s harbour.

The passenger cabin of the ferry “Jolly Buoy”, Andaman Islands.

Transport & Hotels in General.

There are some rather basic hotels in some of the towns, as well as some bus companies, that wont take on a foreigner. This is because these businesses don’t have the licence to take on foreign nationals. We didn’t know that at first and got the explanation only after it happened the second time. It’s not a real problem, but you should just calculate a little more time to find the right company to continue your trip. It’s better not to be in a hurry…

Overall, transport possibilities on the Andaman Islands are excellent; ferries, buses and private Jeeps are available at all arrival points, so if you step off a ferry, a waiting taxi or a bus is almost always available. The only bus that needs to be pre-booked in any case is the bus from Port Blair to Diglipur, because there is no regular bus connection between these two towns. So after the seats are full, there’s no other way to get there by public transport. In major towns like Rangat, Mayabundar and Diglipur, accommodation with some western standard are available … just tell the driver to let you out in front of one of these hotels. Don’t count on any internet connection, and mobile phones reception in many areas … at certain points during our trip here, we felt like time on the Andaman Islands simply stood still. But then again, it does feel pretty nice to be offline for a while as well.

We’ll write about our adventures, experiences and impressions on the Andaman Islands soon, so stay tuned.

After a couple of hours, Orodara came into sight and just before the village, we spotted a nice looking hotel – turned out later that it was a really good choice to go for this one; we had a huge room with a nice balcony on both sides. But since the bus continued driving, we needed to make our way back there. It was definitely too long to walk with all our luggage, therefore we stopped a passing donkey cart. The cart driver was more than surprised to have “blancs” (means white people) as load, but the money we offered convinced him to take us on…

Orodara was a small town with a big market and quite a lot of merchandising going on, where lots of trucks on their way to Mali passed through. We spent a few hours walking around, buying fresh mangoes, bananas and oranges and enquired about possibilities of continuing to Banfora. We were told that this was only possible with a “taxi brousse“. So we made a reservation at the “bush taxi“stand for the next day.

On this donkey cart we were on our way to the hotel in Orodara, Burkina Faso.

Fresh oranges and the most delicious cashew nuts at the market in Orodara, Burkina Faso.

Transporting dead pigs on a motorbike in Orodara, Burkina Faso.

Ready, Set, Go!

A gut feeling told us to be prepared for such a trip, so we stocked up on bananas, baguettes and water. The distance to Banfora is only 80 kilometres on a gravel road, so that – normally – shouldn’t be a big deal for a good car. But bush taxis tend to always need major repairs, and then 80 kilometres can turn into a great distance. Our bush taxi looked exactly like all the others: a lot of luggage on the roof rack, some goats stuffed between a motorbike and lots of baskets of chicken. It was fully loaded, to get the maximum out of the trip. 20 fellow passengers with some kids sitting on their mothers laps. Children travel for free, but don’t get extra seats, so it gets pretty tight.

The kilometres started passing and the taxi stopped from time to time to let someone out or to take on new travellers. There was always a great movement on the roof with loading and unloading, so there was no chance of taking a little nap…

Big Bang Theory.

As if the noise level wasn’t already high enough with the engine being at the end of one’s rope, the constant, very loud & full of vim and vigour blabbering of our fellow passengers in local lingo, was definitely a challenge for our eardrums. While we where trying to figure out what in God’s name they where all talking about, it was abruptly quite after a big BANG followed by the cars standstill. But the silence didn’t last very long … maybe only a gimps of a second, because everyone seemed to know what happened: A broken tyre was the reason. When looking at it, we wondered how it actually made it this far…

The driver apologised to us for this interruption but we weren’t really bothered. The tyre was quickly off and we pointed at the 2 spare tyres on the roof … but these were flat as well. Our input if these tyres were just for decoration didn’t really help to ease the situation. But Africans are used to such incidents, so the boy in charge took the flat tyre and drove off with the next passing motorbike. Now it was time to wait; we and all other passengers settled under the nearby trees to get some shade. Some fell asleep instantly and we opened our “lunch bag” to have a nice bush pick-nick.

Bush taxi-break-down Nr. 1 in Burkina Faso.

Ready to get a new tyre for the broken down bush taxi in Burkina Faso.

This wasn’t going to be our day.

Surprisingly enough, it didn’t take too long for the guy to return out of nowhere with the repaired tyre. It took 5 more minutes to put everything back in place, and then we continued our journey… But not for long. After only 10 kilometres, another tyre went flat – or to put it the right way: it was ripped into pieces. The driver started swearing in his local dialect and the boy in charge got the broken tyre off and disappeared again with the next passing motorbike.

Bush taxi-break-down Nr. 2 in Burkina Faso. Nr. 3 was only a matter of time…

Yet again, a passing motorbike was our only way out…

Time passed and when he came back, he proudly showed everyone the brand new tyre he just bought. Now nothing seemed to stop the car once more. But we cheered too soon, because the one of the two remaining tyres decided that this was his last ride, and we got stuck again. As before, all passengers settled under a huge mango tree and some vendors came along with fresh fruits for sale. After an hour or so, we decided to stop the next passing car to get a lift to Banfora, because it was only about 20 kilometres and we were sick of being stuck in the bush. We were not along with this thought; one of the passengers – a very very old man – joined us as we stopped a Peugeot 404, which had the cargo area turned into passenger seats. Off we were, waving goodbye to our astonished bush taxi driver…

Unfortunately, we were out of luck, because this cars engine sounded weird right from the beginning with hicks and backfires all the way. 3 kilometres before the centre of Banfora, another loud BANG rattled the car and the engine took its last breath. The driver shook his head in despair and this way it for us. We got out and decided to walk the remaining kilometres to our hotel…

After 8 hours of journey time for only 80 kilometres, we reached the hotel “La Canne du Sucre” – a beautiful place with pool – completely exhausted from this bush taxi adventure…

More bush taxis in Burkina Faso:

Fully loaded bush taxi in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso – A couple of tyres in tow just to be on the safe side…

“Bon Voyage” – A Bush taxi in Burkina Faso.

A bush taxi driving though an alley of trees in Banfora, Burkina Faso.

Another bush taxi in Burkina Faso.

And another (smaller) bush taxi in Burkina Faso.

Trucking ia also a very popular way of getting from A to B in Burkina Faso.

Fully loaded truck in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso – Chicken in tow as well.

Sadarghat port in Old Dhaka is the main port for all the launches down into the vast river delta. An important connection is Dhaka to Barisal – further more continuing to Patuakhali. There are several launches everyday to these destinations since this area is very busy with garment factories, brick factories, schools, university and a lot of agricultural trading.

The launches mostly leave from Dhaka in the evening. To get a ticket it’s necessary to first buy a ticket into the harbour area (4 Taka). Once in, best would be to find somebody who speaks a little bit of English; some of the porters do, so this will make things easier for you to find the right launch, to the right destination. Another option to ease things is when somebody (hotel receptionist, etc.) writes down the following sentence in Bangladesh syllables: “I want to travel to (city name) on the (date) with a launch! I would like a cabin please!” I had such a paper from a friend and therefore it was easy and fast to secure a ticket for my desired departure date a few days later. You have to pay a deposit and get a receipt. Remember the name of your launch carefully because basically many look very similar. Just as a side note: I travelled from Dhaka to Patuakhali with the “Sundarban 8” – a very pleasant and comfortable launch.

Costs.

A cabin costs about 900 Taka (approx. 9 €) for a 12-14 hour journey. Sometimes, if you go further down in the delta, it costs a bit more but it also depends on the size and equipment of the launch. Some have air-condition and even a TV in the cabins and the bigger ones also have showers for the guests who book a cabin.

Food.

Food is absolutely no problem on a launch. The chef in the basement prepares a nice meal every day (like chicken curry with rice), so there’s no need to bring food. Bottled water is also available but I’d still suggest to better bring water for the trip. Fruits and various snacks are sold as well just before departure or while on the boat.

Early Check-In.

It’s possible to settle into the cabin already in the morning of the day you travel. This is really great if you have to check out of your hotel or arrive by train or bus and want to continue on the same day. You can lock the cabin and visit the city without to worrying about your luggage.

Rocket Steamer.

Another very smart option is to take the “Rocket Steamer”. It’s a fleet of three or four big river paddle steamer ships. Unfortunately some of them are in bad shape and often go into repair. The biggest and flashiest is the “Ostrich” with first class cabins which have air-condition, TV and a sink. These boats used to carry high-rank personalities during the colonial area and lounging on the first class deck is an experience itself. There you will likely find fellow travellers that speak good English and for sure they will help you to write down some sentences in Bangla syllables like “Where is the bus station” or “Where is the next hotel”. For me, these written notes were very important and made my trip through the country a lot easier.

The “Rocket Steamer” cabin costs 2.200 Taka (approx. 22 €) for 2 people or if you want the cabin for yourself. This boat also docks in Sadarghat and leaves 6 times a week to Morelgonji, stopping on various locations on the way.

Rush hour in the Dhaka mean that thousands of people have to cross the busy waters of the Buriganga river. It’s said that this is one of the most dangerous waterways on Earth … and most dangerous for the ferrymen.

Overnight journey from Dhaka to Hularhat on a first-class cabin of century old Rocket Steamer is a trip you’ll tell your children about.

The deck of the Rocket Steamer already has some years on its hump, yet it still floats through the Sundarbans like when it first set sail.

With the Rocket Steamers white wooden cabins, beds in crispy white sheets and a range of western and local dishes served on fine china, the tranquil paddle steam boat voyage through spectacular rivers leaves a genteel memory in the minds of millions.

The Rocket Steamer is arriving at Hularhat port.

Traffic along the Buriganga river is most common and happening at almost any given hour of the day: big boats and small boats filled with all sorts of different goods make their way up or down the river stream, launches (this is what ferries are called in Bangladesh) come and go, cargo-ships that need a repair job are parked along the waterway…

On deck on our ferry from Dhaka to Galachipa. Very often the launches in Bangladesh are overloaded but luckily this was not the case on our travels (so far).

Several ferries in Bangladesh sink yearly due to either overloading or simply because the boats are not maintained very well.

Sadarghata harbour in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Counting the many ferries at Sadarghat port in Dhaka is almost impossible.

The port in Galachipa is small, yet busy day in day out.

Loading a ferry at Galachipa port in Bangladesh.

The Dhaka traffic situation.

It’s like a journey into the past century; at least in old Dhaka the majority of vehicles on the road are Rickshaws – 3 wheelers for 2 passengers or whatever goods to be carried. Most Rickshaw cyclers are very skinny but very athletic men, who can cycle like devils. Everyone wants to overtake the others and I can assure you, they cycle very fast! I was scared to be airborne at some corners. Well and then the Autorickschaws blend in as well. They’re looking like green and yellow insects right out of a comic movie :) Again they want to be the faster ones on the road, not wanting to give way to the few private cars that ply the roads. the private cars – often with tinted windows – think they are the “Elite” of the country, so why to give way to anything?! But there are still bigger and heavier vehicles on the roads. Buses and trucks. And these vehicles are often heavy overloaded, 60 passengers in a bus plus a few on top or hanging on the back is no exception.

As said, everybody wants to be first and the result is a constant honking, honking, honking … the bigger the vehicle the noisier the honk. Everybody is pushing against the other vehicle and there are absolutely no traffic lines. The Rickshaws or Autorickshaws are trying to sneak into the front of a big honking bus … this can really make even the most case hardened traveller a bit uncomfortable.

Crossings, roundabouts or one-way roads are there to be used in the wrong direction, traffic lights and policemen are abundant, but rather broken or hopeless. Everyone moves at his own idea or takes the shortest short-cut, no matter what’s in the way. Fact is, there are about 30 deaths on the roads per day in Dhaka … The only way to handle such situations as a tourist is simple: Lean back, watch the chaos and have faith that you will not be the one of those who ends up in these statistics.

There is definitely too much energy on the roads in Bangladesh. One should think about sponsoring a Rickshaw driver for competing in the Tour de France. Even without doping and with a good bike, I’m sure that he will have an outstanding performance.

Some impressions:

Jammed streets in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Only the strong survive on the streets in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Whether it’s day or night, the streets are always packed in Bangladesh.

There is a reason why buses look so the way they look in Bangladesh …

As a Rickshaw driver in Bangladesh, you need to be a tough fella.

There’s no way getting through here …

A tropical paradise off the coast of Sumatra.

The Aftermath Of The Earthquake In 2009.

Padang is not really comparable with other cities in Indonesia; it’s a lot more orderly, clean and organized. Wide roads cross the city and a lot of buildings are quite new. The reason for this is the complete rebuilding of Padang after a strong earthquake hit the capital of West Sumatra on September 30th, 2009. A lot of buildings are still badly damaged and it’s will take a while until all the traces are gone. Especially the market area was pretty badly hit and the damage still can be seen around this part of Padang. But the government is working on it and construction is under way.

The aftermath of an earthquake in the center of Padang. Around 135.000 houses were severely damaged, 65.000 houses were moderately damaged and 79.000 houses were slightly damaged.

Some parts of Padang are still destroyed. An estimated 1.250.000 people have been affected by the earthquake.

Arriving In Padang. Where To Stay?

We came from Kuala Lumpur with Air Asia. Though the airport is 30 km outside the city, an airport bus is always available when a flight arrives. If you are a foreigner and your hotel is not too far from their route, they will drop you off there, this was the first nice impression. We stayed at “Golden Homestay” on Jalan Ipah Nr.1. It’s a pleasant place with huge rooms and a very helpful crew! Opposite you find “Spice Homestay”, also very nice but there you better book in advance since it’s often full.

Also South of Padang (about 20 km) is Pantai Bungus with a few guest-houses like “Losmen Carlos” or “Losmen Tin Tin”. They can arrange trips to an uninhabited island as well. Bring food and water if you want the real “Robinson” feeling. On the island you rather can either take a bungalow or set up tent … or sleep in the hammock like we did :)

The Local Cuisine.

One thing that should not be missed is the local cuisine. “Padang kitchen” is one of the best! Chicken curry or Sayur Nagkar (a curry dish made from jack fruit) as well as other different meals are served in little plates. It’s so damn good, that I’m getting hungry just thinking about it…

Padang Kitchen is the best cuisine in the world. You’re served several different dishes on small plates. Only what you eat has to be paid.

Transportation.

We immediately noticed the new hype about lowering and chipping the local taxis or bemos. The drivers seem to be very proud of their vehicles and it’s definitely nothing you get to see very often :)

Bemos are the local taxi’s all over Indonesia with Padang as a major hub.

The Local Market.

The market is, as always a real meeting point and a lot of action going on. Around the corner is a huge western style supermarket as well – good enough to buy provision “western style”, like butter, yoghurt or cheese, if one plans to spend some time on an island.

Fresh fish is always available at the market in Padang.

Not only fresh fish is sold at the market in Padang. The meat section is definitely nothing for the faint-hearted.

Off To A Tropical Island.

Padang is the stepping off point to all the Mentawais. A bit South of Padang in Teluk Gayur, ferries are anchored which set off mostly in the evening for an overnight trip to the islands. You will not believe what kind of beach paradise awaits you there!

High Class Island Hotel Tip: Cubadak Paradiso Village Resort.

Robinson Crusoe feeling in West Sumatra.

Again, there was heavy military presence everywhere and one of my fellow passengers told me that the area wasn’t safe (which I have heard throughout my entire trip). Some groups obviously want independence for their province or aren’t happy with the current situation. As I have said before, for me there was no kind of trouble but you definitely get the feeling that something’s brewing in the area. People along the way with their goods in baskets seemed to be very peaceful, but still … when we stopped at some intersections to change passengers, we were carefully observed by the military.

After An Odyssey, I Arrived In Imphal.

The taxi only drove up to a larger village, where I had to change for the local bus again (déjà vu anyone?). I was pretty exhausted after all this changing & delays and during the last 50km this was topped with having to give up my second (paid) seat. The bus was really overcrowded and two small Indian ladies sat down next to me. They hesitated at first and were pretty shy but after a while they giggled and seemed to be excited to sit next to a foreigner. Towards Imphal the road improved and so did the driver; he started speeding as if there was no tomorrow. I can honestly say that I was relieved to arrive in Imphal in one piece.

After a few times asking around for a hotel, I booked myself into the “best place in town” – Classic Hotel. It had working air-con, clean beautiful rooms, a hot shower and even a fridge. There were still a few power blackouts but I didn’t care as long as I had a nice place to sleep.

Exploring Imphal.

Imphal has a very interesting market called “Imas” (mothers) markets. All 3.000 vendors were women, which is an interesting concept and as far as I’m concerned, these ladies seemed to be pretty good businesswomen. The hardware section on the other side was occupied by men. The market really seemed like a giant beehive, because there were so many people – who were all super friendly. I bought a couple of materials and a fishing net as a souvenir.

My impression of Imphal was actually really good but there was also a disturbing part: the day I left, a home-made bomb was set off in a market a bit outside of the city and ten people lost their lives. Events like this are not uncommon and I guess that explains the heavy military presence…

The road blockade of the National highway N39 (which btw was lifted – after 92 days – today) was also a sign, that some groups want reformations or changes in the province. The ones who suffer most of these incidents – as it’s always the case – is the common population. Prices were sky-rocketing: food, petrol and major provisions were running short. Ambulances (if needed) couldn’t get through… I guess I was really lucky in the end because I probably couldn’t have gotten out of Manipur easily. But since the blockade is lifted, I’ll return again soon for sure!

Read about the first part of my trip from Kohima to Imphal.

The road to Imphal…

Fresh maggots can be found at the market in Imphal.

Market life in Imphal.

Tuk tuks around the area of Lake Loktak – located south of Imphal.

Rice paddies fill the landscape of Manipur in India.

Women are the “rulers” of the markets in Imphal.

Street market in Imphal.

Here’s a short flashback: We spent two weeks in Thailand at the end of September this year. ”Beach paradise here we come” turned into “Beach paradise where are you?” It was raining cats and dogs for days in a row, so we decided to leave Koh Kood island and explore Bangkok.

What can I say? Bangkok itself is great. You just have to leave all the tourist areas (which is not that easy because it’s THE tourist capital in southeast Asia), and start exploring the rural areas & markets. BUT, if you decide to hit the road with a tuk-tuk or taxi, be sure to watch out, because chances of getting ripped off are … well, high! Why? In my opinion there’s only one simple reason: There are far too many tourists. I mean honestly, most Thais try to rip you off pretty much everywhere. They want your money and they’ll do anything to get it…

Buses in Bangkok provide an incredibly cheap way to travel from one side of the city to another. It’s also a great way to see the real Bangkok you don’t often see if you’re travelling by other means of transportation.

Anyway, to get a feeling on what I’m talking about, here are three of our experiences with tuk-tuk & taxis in Bangkok:

Scene 1.

It’s 5.30 in the morning and we need to get to Ekkamai bus station. The hotel staff waves up a taxi and tells him where we want to go. So as he starts driving (and doesn’t start the taximeter himself), I ask how much he wants. He replied “Ohhhh, Ekkamai very far, so 200 bath.” He obviously didn’t know that we’ve been to Ekkamai the day before to buy our tickets and therefore we knew that “very far” it not that far after all. So I asked if he was crazy and I wanted him to start the meter. He them seemed to realize that we knew where we wanted to go … still, he didn’t want to give in so he drove a little scenic tour (but since it was early I didn’t bother) and at 81 Bath, the bus station came into sight. He was nice in the end and joked “Haha, sorry 200 Bath to Ekkamai”.

Résumé: No matter how nice (or old) your driver is, they only want your money!

Scene 2.

We’ve been walking and waking and walking for I don’t know how long and decided to take a tuk-tuk for the last couple of kilometres. Chao Phraya river was our goal. As soon as we waited along the street, a tuk-tuk driver came along. I asked how much be wanted and he told me 200 Bath. I (again) asked if he was crazy. He just said: “Ok ok we make cheaper, you come in.” So we step into the tuk-tuk and he started driving. Again, I asked how much he wanted. He didn’t reply. After maybe 200 meters he stopped and turned around to show us something. “You come with me to my sponsor, then I make you very cheap price.” I said “No.” He said: “ You only look there, I get extra money from sponsor if I bring you there and then cheap for you.” I started getting pissed off and told him: “You either bring us there for 50 Bath or we go now!” He started getting rude, cursed something is Thai and told us to leave. What we gladly did!

Résumé: Stay away from tuk-tuk drivers. They’re only after (guess what) your money! And if you do give in and drive to these “sponsors”, be prepared to pretty much be forced to buy some really expensive rubbish.

While we were there, it almost seemed like that the tuk-tuk drivers don’t really make good business any more (no wonder with their attitude). We’ve maybe only seen a handful of occupied ones … Anybody notice the same?

A tuk-tuk is a widely used in Bangkok and other Thai cities. It is particularly popular where traffic congestion is a major problem, which is the case in Bangkok pretty much 24/7.

Scene 3.

This was on our last day in Bangkok. We were exhausted and therefore skipped the train to the airport. Depending on the rush hour,a taxi drive to the airport would cost about 350-400 Bath. And since I didn’t want any hassle I asked the first taxi driver how much he wanted (before stepping into the car). He said 700 and I told him I’d only pay 400 and he could either say yes or no. He said yes. But the hassle was still to come. Again, after about 500 meters, he stopped the taxi, tuned around and said: ”So much traffic today, you pay more … maybe 500 Bath.” This was it for me. I asked him what in the world his problem was and why he was fine with 400 before if he now wanted 500? I was soooo ready to get out of the cab and I had enough of arguing with this guy. In the end, he reluctantly gave in.

Résumé: They are ALWAYS after your cash, so be aware!

Bangkok’s traffic problem has been getting worse since the government introduced a policy to refund tax for first-time car buyers. To stay out of traffic, take the Skytrain or Subway.

My tip.

• Take the bus, Sky Train or Subway! Buy a day ticket and you’ll not only save money but also unneeded hassle.

The price for a car (especially if it’s a 4×4 truck, with which you can go off road) can often be very costly and not affordable for a single traveller. To go by bicycle is a great way to see a country but you need time to go around. So these were the thoughts when I decided to drive around Cambodia by motorbike…

Getting A Motorbike.

As you may already know, I am female and 56 years of age. The guys at “Lucky Motors” on Monivong Boulevard in Pnomh Penh looked a bit surprised when my sister Andrea (54) and I came in to check out their bikes ;) The decision, which bike to get, was easy: We rented 2 Honda 125 ccm. They’re easy to handle & the locals use the same type of bikes, so in case of a breakdown they’re going to be easy to repair or to get spare parts in any village.

The Maier Sisters in Phnom Penh.

The price was around 10 US $ per day. You have to pay in advance and leave your passport with the rental agency. So bring some copies if somebody wants it (banks, hotel, etc.). Nobody checked anything from us, nobody stopped us and nobody wanted any bribes…so that part was pretty relaxing for us.

Getting Out Of The City.

My worries where with something else…The drive out of the city of Phnom Penh made me quite nervous the night before we set out. Well, all of my “fears” evaporated instantly when the first meters with the bike were against the one-way system in front of the rental shop (suggested by the rental company). Anyway, off we went, still a bit cautious until we got over the bridge out of the city. There’s so much traffic, but you adjust easily.

Day in day out, thousands of motorbikes, cars, trucks and walkers cross the bridge out of Phnom Penh.

This bridge is the “lifeline” of Phnom Penh, therefore it has to be expanded.

An old woman on her way from the local market in Phnom Penh.

It seems like there are as many motorbikes in Phnom Penh as people who live there.

What To Bring.

One really important thing is to bring (and then wear) is a helmet. Both of us brought one from home (and all of my friends signed it for good luck which was nice) but you can buy cheap helmets in Phnom Penh as well. You should also use gloves so your hands don’t get sticky. Bring long straps for the luggage, and if you intend to go off-road, a big strong plastic bag is a must – this will keep the dust off. Be prepared to be covered in dust at the end of the day!

Now that’s what I call “off-road”.

Sleeping.

For the worst case scenarios bring a hammock; we had to use our hammocks quite a few times, when no guest-house was around. Sometimes set up our hammocks in peoples gardens, who allowed us to sleep there. We even camped in monasteries, where the monks permitted us to spend the night; and well, one time we slept right in the bush. Sleeping outside can be very cold, so have a blanket ready. Overall it was an interesting and positive experience.

One of our sleeping locations during our motorbiking trip through Cambodia.

Further North.

We drove all the way along the Mekong river up north and then turned to the road to Banlung. They told us that the road’s going to be new in some months (or years); until now it’s still the old red soil road which is very (very!) dusty. During the wet season every thing’s going to be covered in mud, don’t know what’s better…Expect to make not more than 100 km distance per day, biking is tiring when driving on potholed dusty roads.

Seeing something gets pretty hard on these dusty roads up North in Cambodia.

And back south again on the “Death Highway”.

After a few days in Banlung, making daytrips north to the Laos border region and exploring the area towards Vietnam, we set out south to the track that is called “death highway”. It’s mainly a small road, that winds its way south to Sen Monorem with very few people along the way. Occasionally there’s somebody whom you could ask for direction, but they always only point south. So, for this section bring enough water, food supplies and petrol!

Andrea on her way down the “death highway” in the North of Cambodia.

During the dry season it’s a very sandy track with lots of deep rifts, so some fitness helps a lot. It’s doable though, even without using these off-road 250 or 400 ccm machines. The locals drive with the little Hondas as well, so you should be fine. During the rainy season things look a bit different; this road can turn into a nightmare and only very athletic, experienced bikers should ride this section. You will have to shift through lot of mud and traversing the full creeks will need raft building skills above average.

Resume.

All in all, we drove about 1400 km in 14 days. We didn’t want to rough it up, so we never drove faster than 65km/h and waited every 10km if one of us was a bit behind. We also had the bike serviced twice (oil change and washing). We always filled up the tank when it was half empty, just in case. Petrol for motorbikes is widely available in Cambodia. I can really tell you, going along the small roads in Cambodia is lot of fun; up the Mekong river you get to see villages that are rarely visited by tourists…So, did we enjoy the trip? Hell yeah! Next stop will either be Laos or Sumatra…also by bike of course ;)

Motorbiking through Cambodia was fun & one hell of an adventure!

If you have any more questions about the route, the equipment, places to stay or anything else, send us your questions; we’d be happy to help you with your plans.

Transport in the desert is very limited and if a truck sets out for one of this dangerous journeys, a lot of people see the opportunity to get a ride on those vehicles. Distances between places (where you can get water, petrol or any help in general) can be days apart.