The cemeteries we’re used to are all (more or less) the same: tombstones either next or atop of each other (like for example the Jewish Cemetery in Prague), walkways through the various paths, smaller and larger mausoleums as well as flowers decoration one or the other grave. So when we first heard about hanging coffins high up on cliffs, it sounded quite strange, but our world is huge and packed with different customs and rituals.

From One Bus To The Next: The Normal Way Of Travelling In China.

Our last summer journey brought us to China again. We flew into Chongqing, a city that’s an experience itself not only due to it’s enormous size. We only had 10 days to explore the city and the hanging coffins southeast of Chongqing. Sounds enough, but when travelling through China, you can never be sure where to end up due to the language barrier so a time buffer is strongly advised.

From Chongqing we had to travel to Yibin. A lady at the airports tourism facility booth helped us in securing a seat on a bus the next day. Busses depart straight from the airport to many destinations near or far from Chongqing. The ticket booth and the bus station are located right next to the domestic airport (the international airport is approx. 500 meters away and it’s easy to walk there, even with luggage). There are also other bus stations in the city near the Northern and Southern train stations, but since we don’t speak Mandarine and locals outside of Beijing don’t really understand English, this was our best bet to arrive where we actually anticipated to.

Next Destination: Luobiao.

Once we got to Yibin, we had to transfer again. This meant a local trip through Yibin to get to the right bus station. You can take a taxi if you want to skip all these mini adventures, but it was fun and we got a look at Yibin at the same time. Some of our fellow passengers immediately had an idea where we were headed and directed us to the right bus. After we got to the southern outskirts of Yibin, we hopped onto our transport to Luobiao.

After approximately three hours, leaving the Yangtze River behind us, we arrived in Luobiao, in the area of Xuanguan (which means hanging coffin in Chinese). We didn’t bother with accommodation, and went with what we came across. Right next to the bus station was a hotel that had a nice room with great view and free Wi-Fi. We rested a little while and started exploring.

Some Practicalities:

• You’ll come across a hotel near the bus station for about 80 RMB per night. It’s nothing too fancy, but good enough for what one needs.
• A local market in the morning gives you all the necessary food options.
• The bus back to Yibin leaves early in the morning. And at around 9.00 am, a bus leaves to Gongxian. From here you can take another bus to Bamboo Sea another attraction in the area, but with hordes of local tourists.

In Persuit Of Ghosts: Hanging Coffings Of Luobiao.

As it was already evening, we didn’t venture far out, but the town looked promising, with the strange feeling of being in persuit of ghosts. So early next morning we were on our way to check out these mysterious hanging coffins. The lush valleys and cool mists of southwestern Sichuan province is truly astonishing: beautiful rice paddies, small farm houses, the most friendly people working their crops and only now and then you hear a truck passing by. We didn’t come across any western tourists and even Chinese tourists are a rare sight. This part of the world does not only seem far away from civilisation, but it actually is.

The hanging coffins of the Bo people, a Chinese ethnic minority, have puzzled historians for generations. Nailed into the cliffs high above the farmland, hundreds of wooden coffins keep silent watch over the valleys below. Over the years, several coffins have fallen down, but you get a good impression on how many must have once hung there by counting all the holes carved into the mountains. The Bo tribe was exterminated in the days of the Ming Dynasty and these coffins are the only relict. It seems obvious that little now is known of them, who they were, or how they lived.

The hanging coffins are really interesting, but what fascinated us even more was the atmosphere and feeling we had when wandering through the rice paddies, as well as the hospitality of the local people. We definitely left Luobiao with a big smile.

We started wandering along the path to the first set of hanging coffins and then further up into a huge cave with ruined structures inside it. The view from up here was breathtaking!

The handing coffins were a unique burial custom of the Bo people was carried out to prevent the dead bodies from being eaten by wild animals and was also believed to be a way for the soul of the deceased to gain an eternal blessing.

If you enjoy peace and quite, then the area of Luobiao is the right sport for you. Here you can truly disconnect from the outer world and experience nature at its best.

The hanging coffins are interesting no doubt, but the experiences we had with the local people, as well as the atmosphere and nature of the Luobiao area deserves just as much attention!

The hanging coffin was a widespread form of burial in ancient southwest China, but the practice ended with the mysterious disappearance of the Bo People.

Luobiao is located in a small river valley with some of the most impressive vegetation we’ve come across.

Some believe the hanging coffins of the Bo people must have been lowered down with ropes from the top of the mountain. Some think the coffins had been put in place using wooden stakes inserted into the cliff face to be used as artificial climbing aids. Others believe that scaling ladders or timber scaffolds were used. However, investigators have failed to find even a single stake hole.

The market in Luobiao offers everything you expect from a market in China: live animals, fresh fruits and vegetables and lots of street vendors.

Forbidden City Or The Great Wall Of China?

Last August we managed to visit Beijing again and had to make a choice between the Forbidden City or the Great Wall. We didn’t have time to do both (plus we’ve visited both sights before), and since the Forbidden City had hundreds of people waiting in line, the Great Wall it was! It would be our second visit – and probably our last (at least the part near Beijing).

This famous landmark is found on several “must-do-lists”; must-do before you die; must-visit landmarks; must-visit in China … and so forth. So naturally the Great Wall really should be visited at least once in a lifetime. Or even twice.

Our first visit to the Great Wall turned out to become our worst nightmare because we landed on a package tour. We don’t like package tours at all, and we learned from our mistake. So to to avoid all that, we decided to take the public bus.

How To Get To The Great Wall Of China By Public Transport.

Get out of metro line Nr. 2 at the station Dongzhimen and continue to exit B (be careful not to mess it up with the airport line). From here you just go to the bus station to your left and look for bus Nr. 916 to Huairou. We can’t remember what the bus charged for the trip, but it was really cheap.

The ride takes about 1.5 hour. It’s best to tell the driver that you want to go to Mutianyu Great Wall. This part of the Wall is approximately 70km northeast of Beijing. Actually you’d assume that they know where where a tourist heads to, but just in case the driver is a bit absent, tell him anyway.

Once you get off, there’ll be minivans or cabs waiting for visitors. To save money, simply share one with fellow bus passengers who’re also on a self-guided tour. The cab price is negotiable, but it was around 15 US$. 20 minutes later and you’re at one of the most iconic landmarks of our planet.

Your next step is getting an entrance ticket. Unless you’re willing to crawl through thick bushes to avoid the ticket inspector, there’s no way around buying one. Still, you have a few options:

• A return cable car ticket (for the lazy ones)
• A single cable car ticket (walking one direction, or an alternate method of descent by single-rider personal wheeled toboggan)
• Walking both directions (which means avoiding the crowds lining up for the cable car ride)

We Finally Arrived At The Great Wall Of China.

It was a hot August morning and we were one of the first visitors, which was a nice change from busy Beijing. We’re pretty fit, so we decided to skip the cable car. Walking up all these stairs wears you out, so next time, we’d take a single-way ticket – though this also means that one should be there early, otherwise the waiting line is very very (very!) long. You can also buy a single ticket up at the Wall, but it’s more expensive, so make sure you know in advance what you want to do.

Walking along the Great Wall itself is pretty easy, only the crowds can be a bit annoying at times – especially if you want to take photos without people (which is almost impossible after 10.00 am).

Resume Of Our Visit To The Great Wall Of China.

Of course the Great Wall of China is a must visit! After all, it’s one if the most impressive structures ever build by humans. But next time we’d to travel to Jinshanling (approx. 130km northeast of Beijing) or Jiayu Pass (Western part), simply because you’ll come across less tourists. This is one of the things that really bother us about China: Mass-tourism. It makes even the most amazing area or sight overcrowded and un-charming…

A Few Fact Of The Great Wall Of China.

• Chinese Name: Wann Li Channg-Ch’ng (meaning: Long Wall of 10.000 Li)
• Length: The wall’s length – without its branches and other secondary sections – was thought to extend for some 6.690 km (4.160 miles)
• Built: Construction of the earliest sections began during in 770 – 476 B.C.
• Completed: By the time construction on most of the stone-and-brick Great Wall, with its turrets and watchtowers, was completed during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644)
• Visitors: Approximately 10 million each year
• Myth: It’s said that the Great Wall of China is the only human-built structure that can be seen from space. But it’s not true. The reality is that you can’t easily see the Great Wall from low Earth orbit with the naked eye – you need some serious equipment to do so…

With a history of more than 2.000 years, some of the sections are now in ruins or have disappeared. However, it is still one of the most appealing attractions all around the world owing to its architectural grandeur and historical significance.

Just like a gigantic dragon, the Great Wall winds up and down across deserts, grasslands, mountains and plateaus, stretching approximately 8.851 km from east to west of China.

The Wall we see today was mostly built during the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644). It starts from Hushan in the east to Jiayuguan Pass in the west traversing Liaoning, Hebei, Beijing, Tianjin, Shanxi, Inner Mongolia, Ningxia, Shaanxi, Gansu and Qinghai.

The Great Wall of China is the greatest tourist attraction in China and approximately 10 million people visit this landmark each year.

A bunch of happy officers at the Great Wall in China during our first visit.

How we got there.

We were on a 7-week long journey with China as our final destination. Travelling around in Asia is pretty easy and convenient thanks to Air Asia, because the airlines covers so many points of interest for a traveller around the continent. And it’s also one of the most reliable ones… Anyway, so from Bangkok, we headed to Kunming, which is the starting point for the Honghe Hani rice terraces. After an overnight stay, we hopped onto one of the buses to Xinjie, departing from the southern station. It’s a long drive, so calculate at least 6 to 7 hours. Make sure you clarify which Yuanyang you are going to when you hop on a bus, since Xinjie is also knows as Old/New Yuangyang, depending on where you are… yes, it’s pretty confusing.

The village of Xinjie.

The closer you get to Xinjie, the more interesting the landscape becomes. Xinjie itself is a neat town with a very interesting local market and community gatherings in the evenings on the main plaza.

Once a week every larger surrounding village has its market day and then the area gets really busy. Ethnic groups can be seen in their traditional costumes, since western clothing isn’t very common here; locals simply love their traditions, which also includes men smoking strange looking pipes that seem to be unique to this area…

Xinjie village – aka Old Yuanyang – is the traditional heart of the county.

Xinjie, Old Yuanyang or New Yuanyang?! To make things complicated, if you are in Nansha, then you are in Yuanyang, and Yuangyang Old Town is Xinjie, and if you are in Xinjie, then you are in Yuanyang, and Yuangyang New City is Nansha. Got it?!

An old woman of the Hani minority at the market in Xinjie, Yunnan Province, China.

Men smoking a pipe in Xinjie, Yunnan Province, China.

The market hall in Xinjie is pretty impressing.

Shopping for chicken at the market in Xinjie, Yunnan Province, China.

The Honghe Hani Rice Terraces.

The Honghe Hani rice terraces are the largest landscaped area in the world made entirely by hand. Carved on the mountains by the Hani people, they have a history of over 1.200 years. In between those steep walls of rice terraces are little villages where time seems to stand still. Community gatherings are very common; people cook together and share the food. Ethnic tribes live in harmony, while maintaining the rice paddies, farming vegetables, taking care of fish-ponds with ducks living between the rice fields and the occasional buffalo or cow herder walking along the road with their cattle.

There are viewing points near each of these villages, but walking along the road will give you amazing views as well. Some roads lead to even smaller villages situated between the rice paddies. This is especially helpful during the main season to avoid the masses of (mainly local) tourist.

Guesthouse tip: Belinda Backpackers Guesthouse in Xinjie is not far from the bus station and is a nice place to stay at. It’s reasonable priced with good Wi-Fi connection. Belinda herself speaks English very well and this is the biggest bonus! She can always be reached by phone if a problem occurs.

There’s some great atmosphere in the region and we could have spend many more days exploring it. So our tip would be to simply base yourself in one of the many guesthouses and take it from there…

Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, China.

Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, China.

In between the Honghe Hani rice terraces, you will come across farmers with buffaloes or cows.

Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, China.

Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, China.

Hidden Treasures.

This mountain road has been carved into stone by the local villagers not too long ago. They were simply fed up with having to climb steep & dangerous stairs and bamboo ladders to reach their homes. So, in 1972 thirteen villagers decided to start building this man-made wonder. Other villages in the area followed – some died along the way – and now, there quite a few tunnel roads to be found high up in the Taihang mountains of the Henan Province. Villagers worked for 15 years (while the major tunnel road only took 5 years), digging the roads along steep mountainside cliffs, carving tunnels and disposing the material through huge window-like openings.

Today, the area is a major tourist attraction (especially for Chinese tourists). From the early morning onwards, buses drive up the main tunnel road to a tiny village called Guoliang. Thanks to the well preserved old houses and the breathtaking scenery, this village is also a famous film location for the Chinese film industry. Apart from the famous mountain tunnel road, there is another one not too far from Guoliang that is even more spectacular…

Thank God For Binoculars.

We walked along the winding road, continuing upwards while scanning the area through our binoculars. It was actually the first time since our travels through Africa in the 70s & 80s, that we took along a pair of binoculars. You have to understand, travelling with a super heavy, bulky and unhandy gadget on our trips is not on our main agenda – we have about 20kg of camera equipment as it is. And after all, this is how we remembered binoculars.

Well, a lot has changed since those days. Thanks to Swarovski Optik, we had the opportunity to try out the CL Pocket 10 x 25. It took us a while to get used to the new feeling (compared to the old bulky pair), but that changed pretty quickly. This pair of binoculars is super light-weight, contrasts and colours are brilliant and the viewing comfort is truly amazing. No, we’re not trying to persuade you, but it really made our trip to the Guoliang Tunnel Roads even more worth while.

Swarovski CL Pocket 10 x 25 Binoculars.

Ulli has everything in sight with her Swarovski CL Pocket 10 x 25 binoculars.

Surprise, Surprise.

It was foggy up in the Taihang mountains and it wasn’t easy to recognize the far-away scenery easily. We continued scanning the area, when in the distance, we saw lots of holes in the centre of the mountain. Even further away we also spotted a cable car and some strange looking buildings built into the mountain. We would have needed at least two more days to check it out, but unfortunately our time was limited. When planning this trip, we had no idea that the area was packed with these many surprises. Therefore, we’re already counting the months until we re-visit for at least 10 days or longer…

Handy Information.

Since in Guoliang (& its surrounding villages) almost nothing is written in English, we’d quickly like to give you some hints if you decide to visit the Guoliang Tunnel Road any time soon:

• Bring a Chinese dictionary and be prepared to be very patient with transport and accommodation.
• How to get there (it’s a bit of an Odysseé): From Xinxijang East train station (high speed train station), take bus number 66 to the city/old train station. From here, take the bus to Huixian. At Huixian bus station you have to take another bus directly to Guoliang or to Nanping. Allow at least 5 to 6 hours to reach this place from Xinxijang with public transport. And make sure to have every destination written down in Chinese, otherwise who knows where you’ll end up…
• Sometimes you don’t have to go all the way to the last stop, so do try to ask some of the locals. Not all Chinese will ignore you…
• The advantage of travelling by bus? Almost no costs, so it’s a good option for a single traveller with patience and time.

Guoliang Tunnel Road | This is a real man-made wonder; it took 15 years and lots of energy to carve this road up the mountains to get an easier access to the village of Guoliang.

Guoliang Tunnel Road | One can feel the energy that these villagers needed to built this road. There are a few examples of these carved mountain roads in the area and we were speechless by this fascinating achievement.

Guoliang Tunnel Road | The “Road that does not tolerate any mistakes.”

Guoliang Tunnel Road | When villagers took matters into their own hands and started carving a road through the mountain rocks, they didn’t know that it would become such a tourist attraction…

Guoliang Tunnel Road | Tourists love the thrill of standing close to the edge…

Guoliang Tunnel Road | It’s a tight squeeze for vehicles, twisting past the tunnel’s “windows” which provide stunning views hundreds of feet below.

Guoliang Tunnel Road | Guoliang is nestled in a valley surrounded by great mountains, so the village was cut off from outside civilization until the tunnel was built.

Guoliang Tunnel Road | One can say: “They had a dream” when some initiative villagers took matters into their own hands and started to dig this road through Taihang mountains for better access to their village.

The village of Guoliang in the Henen Province is well worth too.

Strolling through the village of Guoliang will give you a great impression of the local way of living, which hasn’t changed all that much in the last years…

Men of all ages can be seen with rolled up T-shirts presenting their often not so six-pack tummies in public (in the subway, train, streets, restaurants, etc.), sometimes fanning themselves with the garment. It’s a habit through all ages, social standings and tummy sizes, yet not gender. So women, don’t take these men as an example, because that would simply be too scandalous.

We’ve had our share of different bellies: round, oval, large, small, hairy, tattooed … and sometimes even 9-month-overdue-pregnancy bellies. Sure, summertime can be very (!) hot in China, but it’s hot in other countries as well and you don’t see anything like it there?!

So, every time we travel to China, we wonder why Chinese men have this natural urge to pull up their shirts whenever they want. We did some research on the topic but nothing really came up… A possible explanation could be that during the cultural revolution, good manners were condemned and people became started acting more like pigs (spitting, munching, slurping and so forth).

Before the Olympic Games in China 2008, the government tried hard to erase the belly-showing (and other bad customs). All mayors of larger cities urged their fellow men to button-up. But these old habits sit deep and their efforts didn’t have a great success.

We’re very positive that on our next visit to China we’ll continue seeing non-sixpack bellies and many other strange customs – but then again, they make a good photo opportunity.

Shirtless Chinese men in the streets of Guangzhou.

A shirtless butcher in Hong Kong.

Shirtless Chinese men in the streets of Beijing.

Shirtless Chinese men resting in the streets of Guangzhou.

Shirtless Chinese man playing a game of Mahjong in Guangzhou.

Shirtless Chinese man selling watermelons in the streets of Beijing.

Shirtless Chinese men unloading a truck in Beijing.

Shirtless Chinese man sitting in the streets of Guangzhou.

Shirtless Chinese man sleeping in the streets of Guangzhou.

Shirtless all around in Guangzhou.

A dedicated shirtless turtle seller at a market in Guangzhou.

An exhausted shirtless Chinese man in the streets of Guangzhou. Somehow he reminded us of a beetle on his back…

Shirtless Chinese men eating dinner in the streets of Guangzhou.

If you start exploring the area just a little North of Shamian Island (Shamian itself has kept its beauty from the past – only the White Swan Hotel is a more modern building), you’ll walk through a very old part of this city. Of course it’s also interrupted with new buildings, but a lot of the area still has its original charm with “gated” communities. Beside bicycles and electric motorbikes, only pedestrians can be seen here, because the roads and walkways are too narrow for cars.

A city within the city.

Inside such a gated area, you’ll come across lots of vibrant outdoor activities all day long: Elderly residents meet in the street to play a game of Majong, others work out on gymnastic apparatuses and neighbours meet up in front of ones apartment. Washing is hung up in the street, while kids play soccer in some corners and old grannies walk along hand-in-hand in their pyjamas. Every area also has its own ‘shopping centre’ – its actually more like a market area, with all sorts of different stalls. You’ll find everything a Chinese family needs; from household goods, food, live poultry and fish, an adjoining post office, a hairdresser and a tea shop … and sometimes even a gambling shop, where you can play the lottery for example.

The local life here is very peaceful, while the hustle and bustle from the streets outside has no effect within the gates. At least this is what it looked like to us. We’ve never been into one of these flats though. Most probably they’re a bit crammed and small, but the residents still seem to enjoy their lives in the old quarters of Guangzhou.

Walking through the old quarter of Guangzhou is really peaceful and a nice change to the otherwise super busy city.

A typical apartment block in Guangzhou.

A typical apartment building in Guangzhou.

Bicycles are the best way to get around the old quarters in Guangzhou.

Women selling goods at a market in Guangzhou.

Walking along the old quarter in Guangzhou is really relaxing and makes you feel like you’re in a small village out in the countryside.

Many Chinese use a bicycle to get around the side streets of Guangzhou.

Fresh chicken – ready for the pot – at Huayuan market in Guangzhou.

Walking along a side street in the old quarter of Guangzhou.

A group of people playing Mahjong in Guangzhou.

Most people arriving in Guangzhou are there for just one reason: business. But even for the busiest businessman, a walk through one of the parks could make the little (needed) difference on a hectic day.

What to expect.

Even before breakfast, early in the morning, the parks develop into a little city themselves. Lots of activities are happening: Groups are getting together for some Tai Chi – mostly accompanied with some soft Chinese music; others use their spare time to take a run through one of the parks, or a little morning game of Jianzi (a traditional Asian game in which players aim to keep a heavily weighted shuttlecock in the air using their feet) with friends. Also, if you follow the sound of music, you’ll come across gatherings of people who get together to sing … and they take their singing very serious (they even have a conductor). While walking through Yuexiu park, we detected a group singing “Freude schöner Götterfunken” by Beethoven. Somehow it was a bit unreal to listen to Chinese pensioners singing such a classical song …

The parks.

We’ve been to two major parks in Guangzhou: Liuhuahu park and Yuexiu park. Yuexiu park is opposite the China (Marriott) Hotel. It  has some little hills and a jungle like vegetation, so you’ll find some great hiking trails – yes, we’re talking about the bustling city of Guangzhou. If you prefer water more, Yuexiu park (as well as Liuhuahu park) also has a huge lake. You can either feed huge Koi fish with leftover bread, or take one of the paddle boats on a little spin through the water veins.

People from Guangzhou flock to their parks and for an interesting experience, visitors should do as well at least once.

Easily one of the most beautiful spots in Guangzhou is the Liuhuahu Park. This massive park encircles the Liuhua Lake.

Liuhuahu Park is split into three major areas, the first being the Sightseeing and Resting area. This area is a wonderful place to have a picnic or go for a walk or run along the edge of the lake, and is particularly beautiful in the evening when the sun is setting.

The second area of Liuhuahu Park is the Entertainment and Activities area, which has playgrounds for kids, as well as occasional public workshops or music performances.

Especially the older generation is seen at Liuhuahu Park, who keep fit with table tennis, Tai Chi or Badminton.

The last area of Liuhuahu Park is the Aviary and Botanical Garden area. The aviary houses a wide variety of birds and the botanical garden is pleasantly fragrant and well kept.

Tai Chi is an internal Chinese martial art practised for both its defense training and its health benefits.

Some of Tai Chi’s training forms are especially known for being practiced with relatively slow movement.

Many gardeners keep Liuhuahu park clean.

Feeding Koi fish at Yuexiu Park is just one of the many things you can do here.

Yuexiu Park is the largest park in downtown Guangzhou. Covering an area of 860.000 m2, it’s made up of three artificial lakes and seven hills of Yuexiu Mountain.

Yuexiu Park is a perfect combination of cultural relics and ecological tourism, reputed for its pretty water and hills as well as cultural relics.

After a cruise along the Li River (on which we were more than disturbed by Chinese brats trying to shoot us with water guns) and a visit to Moon Hill (which was the best sight in the entire area because no tourist was ready to walk over 700 stairs up a mountain), Silver Cave was our next destination (not that we’re fans of caves but it was a rainy day so there wasn’t any other choice).

We could only guess what would expect us there … Anyway, not realizing how far the cave actually was away from the center of Yangshuo, we hired a tuk-tuk driver for 40 Yuan. At first he seemed happy to have customers on this rainy day (even though he didn’t appreciate our bargaining methods) but after about 20 minutes on the road, he didn’t seem all that excited any more … and neither were we because we started freezing our asses off! After another 10 minutes, I feared he would leave us standing on the side of the street. He could only hope for customers at the Silver Cave otherwise this trip wouldn’t be good for business.

After 40 minutes, the tuk-tuk driver turned left and big signs welcomed us … which was not a good sign because that meant Silver Cave was yet just another overrun tourist attraction. Now we had two choices: to run or to get ready for combat. We went for the last one … and after all, the cave itself is pretty impressive: The Silver Cave is the biggest cave in the entire Guilin area. Being of typical Karst landforms, it runs through 12 peaks and collects diverse stalactites that formed in different geologic ages. The main cave stretches for more than 10 km and inside the cave there are two layers, including the land part and the water part that is a crystal-clear subterranean river on which it’s allowed to take a boat trip (no we didn’t do that!).

After about 35 minutes of walking through the cave, I felt the need for fresh oxygen and we quickly made our way to the exit. What awaited us there was a walkway through souvenir shops – no short cut available believe us!

Inside Silver Cave in Yangshuo, China.

Inside Silver Cave in Yangshuo, China.

Inside Silver Cave in Yangshuo, China.

Inside Silver Cave in Yangshuo, China.

Inside Silver Cave in Yangshuo, China.

Inside Silver Cave in Yangshuo, China.

Inside Silver Cave in Yangshuo, China.

Inside Silver Cave in Yangshuo, China.

Getting to Dazhai village was easier than we expected because everything went pretty smoothly; we walked to the bus station in Yangshuo and the bus to Guilin was ready to leave. The drive took about two hours and was totally uncomplicated. We knew that we needed to switch bus stations in Guilin to get to Heping. As soon as the bus pulled into the station and we stepped out, a tuk tuk driver picked us up and immediately brought us to the right station. Five minutes later, we were on our way. After about 20 minutes on the road, the landscape started getting much nicer and cable lines (finally) thinned out. Just after I fell asleep, the Chinese ticket man started screaming that we were in Heping and we needed to get out. It was a rude wake-up call but it was all good after we were in the truck to Dazhai.

Arriving on Dazhai village was like being back in time. It was so peaceful and calm, with fresh air and a stunning view. Dazhai is framed by world famous rice terraces that rise up to 1.200 meters: The Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces of Longsheng County. I felt right at home since it was not that different from our little villages in the Alps. Anyway, these rice terraces are the most well-known in China and were mostly built during the Ming Dynasty, about 500 years ago but construction actually began in the Yuan Dynasty (over 700 years ago)!

After soaking up all the great energy, we booked ourselves into a nice little guest house in the centre of Dazhai, where we had an amazing room with a great view and friendly staff. It couldn’t get any better than this.

Dazhai village in Longsheng County, China.

After settling in and seeing the rice terraces around us, I started realizing that it would be a very long and steep way to get a clear view from above. And I was right about that. But before we get to the stories and photos of that, I’d like to share the map of the terraces around Dazhai, since there are a lot on the internet that are just confusing and … well, wrong:

Map of the rice terraces around Dazhai, China.

The three viewpoints around Dazhai are the best ones in the area. There is no need to visit Ping An or any other places (unless you really want to) because these three are the most stunning views you’ll find. Oh and by the way: Whoever said, that you could get lost when walking around the rice terraces alone must be a complete idiot! There is absolutely no way you can get lost (unless – as said – you’re an idiot); all ways somehow lead to Dazhai or Tiantou village. What can happen is that you take the wrong turn and just have to walk a couple of hours longer to get to your goal but that’s it. Always bring a bottle of water and you’ll be more than fine …

Viewpoint Nr. 3 “Buddha’s Peak”.

As Austrians, we know our way around mountains. Therefore, the three hour walk (you can do it in one hour as well but we wanted to explore the area a little bit) was like a piece of cake for us :) After what felt like about 5.000 steep steps, we got to the top and were more than impressed from the view.

The famous view of the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces from viewpoint Nr. 3.

Dazhai village from viewpoint Nr. 3.

Longji Rice terraces viewpoint Nr. 3.

The view of Tiantou village from viewpoint Nr. 3.

Tiantou village in Longsheng County, China.

On the way up to viewpoint Nr. 3 of the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces.

Unfortunately, the Chinese government is currently building a gigantic cable car from the parking lot to viewpoint Nr. 3 (which is the most famous one) and therefore, tourist crowds will soon overrun this place. This is definitely made for the fat and lazy … The station is supposed to be finished this October … from then on, it can only go downhill because mass tourism in China is … well, pretty massive.

Viewpoint Nr. 2 ” Thousand Layers to Heaven”.

On the second day, we decided to check out viewpoint Nr. 2 and Nr. 1. Getting to Nr. 2 is pretty easy because it’s the lowest ones out of the three. The walk takes 30 minutes and is not that steep. Still, you have a great view of the scenery and landscape around Dazhai.

Close up of the rice terraces in Longsheng county, China.

View of Dazhai from Viewpoint Nr. 2 “Thousand Layers to Heaven”.

Rice terraces from Viewpoint Nr. 2 in Longsheng County, China.

Viewpoint Nr. 1 ” Music for Paradise”.

Viewpoint Nr. 1 is the highest one around Dazhai. It’s peak is at 1.200 meters and it takes about three hours to get up there. Again, you can probably to it on 1 1/2 hours but where’s the fun in that?

Walking back down from viewpoint Nr. 1 “Music for Paradise”.

Rice Terraces from Viewpoint Nr. 1 ” Music for Paradise”

All in all, the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces were absolutely stunning. They truly are the most impressive we’ve every seen and I’m pretty sure nothing can top that any time soon. One more good thing: I though that I was pretty fit before we visited Dazhai but after we left, my bum and thighs where more trained ;) All these steep steps have a positive effect on your figure. For those who don’t need (or better want) to get in shape, you can rent a palanquin with four strong Chinese men to carry you up to the top. You will surely get a lot of looks from the locals if you decide to go with this. Honestly, I thought it was the most ridiculous thing ever (unless your old or sick), especially because the ones sitting in those chairs are mostly overweight and uninterested in the scenery anyway. To each his own. We still prefer the old fashioned way of actually moving your ass :D

In the middle of the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces.

Up at viewpoint Nr. 3 in Longshend County, China.

If you’re planning a trip here, be sure to read the following article because we will only give you authentic and honest feedback on our impression of Yangshuo. Forget Loney Planet on this. We built on the writer’s impressions and fell flat on our face! What’s up Lonely Planet? Where are the honest words we got in previous guides?

Anyway, our insight won’t be embellished but only true and straightforward. I wish I had read an article just as honest before planning this trip because my destination would have definitely altered.

First impressions count.

We arrived in Yangshuo at 1am with the sleeper bus from Guangzhou. The bus ride itself was pretty comfy. If you’re not overweight or claustrophobic, it’s a great way to get a good night sleep and travel at the same time. So arriving in Yangshuo with heavy rain and no lights near the bus station was not good for a nice first impression. Luckily we knew where we wanted to go: Explorer Hotel. I read the Lonely Planet travel guide before and it said, that Explorer Hotel it was a cute & quite mid-range hotel. So we beckoned the local tuk tuk driver over and were on our way. During the 10-minute ride there, we started realizing, that this town was not a sleepy little Chinese village as we expected … Turning into the street of Explorer Hotel, it was one bar to the next with bright neon lights and loud techno music – with binge drinking highly appreciated. Seriously?! The tuk tuk driver also pissed us off when he tried to rip us off but we couldn’t be bothered and gave him the 10 Yuan more. After all, it’s been one hell of a long day and it didn’t seem to get any better.

No fatties allowed in the sleeper bus from Guangzhou to Yangshuo.

After checking in, the reception lady said that our room was on the third floor … and there was no elevator. Great! Two 20kg bags (one in each hand) and up we were … only to realize, that the room was already taken by someone else. Now I started to get a little grumpy. Ulli was a bit calmer since she had been on a four-week trip through Bangladesh and therefore wouldn’t lose her temper easily. “So sorry Missy, please take room in first floor.” So we did. The room was clean with two large beds, A/C and a nice bathroom – at least this worked out, otherwise I would have needed the consultation of a Chinese Psychologist.

It can’t get any worse, can it?

The sky cleared up the next day. It was cloudy but at least the rain stopped. Still a bit edgy from what we saw last night, we wanted to give Yangshuo a second chance. It’s said that everyone deserves a second chance …  yeah … who in the world ever wrote that crap?! It was even worse than the night before. Imagine Rimini in Italy. Phuket in Thailand. Kuta in Indonesia. Or Downtown Siam Reap in Cambodia. Multiply this by 100 and you get Yangshuo in China.

West street in Yangshuo has a scary resemblance to Kao San Road in Bangkok …

I really started wondering on why I wanted to come here so badly and remembered the most amazing BBC Documentary “Wild China” where Guilin and Yangshuo were described as “the most beautiful spots in China”. Yeah sure, if you have the cash to fly in with a helicopter, shoot scenes from above or land in uninhabited placed. But reality looks very (very !) different: Huge highway roads. Tourist vendors along all the streets. Thousand of bamboo raft boats on the Li River. Bars and fast food places. Gigantic hotel building blocks. And of course, thousands of tourists. No sight of traditional China.

Even the fisherman with their cormorant birds were fake. Sure, they exist but they’re just another tourist attraction. These fishermen don’t make their money by selling the daily catch on the local market anymore. Much rather, they wait along the Li River for tourists to pass, who pay them to display their cormorant birds. By the way, the birds also look a bit pissed since no one lets them catch fish anymore…

A fisherman with his Cormorant waiting for customers.

I hope I was able to give you an insight on our impressions. Clearly you need to see a place yourself to fully understand the words but I think we did a good job filling in the blanks. Yangshuo once was a beautiful town worth a UNESCO World Heritage Site but obviously the development of the last 30 years didn’t make the area any better (in our opinion); the view of the karst mountain landscape is interrupted by signs, electric wires, (lots of) plastic rubbish and all sorts of tourist attractions. One thing is for sure … to get the picture perfect shot; you’d have to be a master at Photoshop.

Appearances can be deceiving.

All in all, the first day here had a few down sides but also a very nice up side: Moon Hill was fantastic. This place needs muscle and stamina to access so the crowds up there are thinning. Other than than, we also visited the Silver Cave, which was a nightmare as well before heading up North to the Dragon’s Backbone rice terraces – definitely the highlight of our trip!