How we got there.

We were on a 7-week long journey with China as our final destination. Travelling around in Asia is pretty easy and convenient thanks to Air Asia, because the airlines covers so many points of interest for a traveller around the continent. And it’s also one of the most reliable ones… Anyway, so from Bangkok, we headed to Kunming, which is the starting point for the Honghe Hani rice terraces. After an overnight stay, we hopped onto one of the buses to Xinjie, departing from the southern station. It’s a long drive, so calculate at least 6 to 7 hours. Make sure you clarify which Yuanyang you are going to when you hop on a bus, since Xinjie is also knows as Old/New Yuangyang, depending on where you are… yes, it’s pretty confusing.

The village of Xinjie.

The closer you get to Xinjie, the more interesting the landscape becomes. Xinjie itself is a neat town with a very interesting local market and community gatherings in the evenings on the main plaza.

Once a week every larger surrounding village has its market day and then the area gets really busy. Ethnic groups can be seen in their traditional costumes, since western clothing isn’t very common here; locals simply love their traditions, which also includes men smoking strange looking pipes that seem to be unique to this area…

Xinjie village – aka Old Yuanyang – is the traditional heart of the county.

Xinjie, Old Yuanyang or New Yuanyang?! To make things complicated, if you are in Nansha, then you are in Yuanyang, and Yuangyang Old Town is Xinjie, and if you are in Xinjie, then you are in Yuanyang, and Yuangyang New City is Nansha. Got it?!

An old woman of the Hani minority at the market in Xinjie, Yunnan Province, China.

Men smoking a pipe in Xinjie, Yunnan Province, China.

The market hall in Xinjie is pretty impressing.

Shopping for chicken at the market in Xinjie, Yunnan Province, China.

The Honghe Hani Rice Terraces.

The Honghe Hani rice terraces are the largest landscaped area in the world made entirely by hand. Carved on the mountains by the Hani people, they have a history of over 1.200 years. In between those steep walls of rice terraces are little villages where time seems to stand still. Community gatherings are very common; people cook together and share the food. Ethnic tribes live in harmony, while maintaining the rice paddies, farming vegetables, taking care of fish-ponds with ducks living between the rice fields and the occasional buffalo or cow herder walking along the road with their cattle.

There are viewing points near each of these villages, but walking along the road will give you amazing views as well. Some roads lead to even smaller villages situated between the rice paddies. This is especially helpful during the main season to avoid the masses of (mainly local) tourist.

Guesthouse tip: Belinda Backpackers Guesthouse in Xinjie is not far from the bus station and is a nice place to stay at. It’s reasonable priced with good Wi-Fi connection. Belinda herself speaks English very well and this is the biggest bonus! She can always be reached by phone if a problem occurs.

There’s some great atmosphere in the region and we could have spend many more days exploring it. So our tip would be to simply base yourself in one of the many guesthouses and take it from there…

Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, China.

Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, China.

In between the Honghe Hani rice terraces, you will come across farmers with buffaloes or cows.

Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, China.

Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, China.

Getting to Dazhai village was easier than we expected because everything went pretty smoothly; we walked to the bus station in Yangshuo and the bus to Guilin was ready to leave. The drive took about two hours and was totally uncomplicated. We knew that we needed to switch bus stations in Guilin to get to Heping. As soon as the bus pulled into the station and we stepped out, a tuk tuk driver picked us up and immediately brought us to the right station. Five minutes later, we were on our way. After about 20 minutes on the road, the landscape started getting much nicer and cable lines (finally) thinned out. Just after I fell asleep, the Chinese ticket man started screaming that we were in Heping and we needed to get out. It was a rude wake-up call but it was all good after we were in the truck to Dazhai.

Arriving on Dazhai village was like being back in time. It was so peaceful and calm, with fresh air and a stunning view. Dazhai is framed by world famous rice terraces that rise up to 1.200 meters: The Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces of Longsheng County. I felt right at home since it was not that different from our little villages in the Alps. Anyway, these rice terraces are the most well-known in China and were mostly built during the Ming Dynasty, about 500 years ago but construction actually began in the Yuan Dynasty (over 700 years ago)!

After soaking up all the great energy, we booked ourselves into a nice little guest house in the centre of Dazhai, where we had an amazing room with a great view and friendly staff. It couldn’t get any better than this.

Dazhai village in Longsheng County, China.

After settling in and seeing the rice terraces around us, I started realizing that it would be a very long and steep way to get a clear view from above. And I was right about that. But before we get to the stories and photos of that, I’d like to share the map of the terraces around Dazhai, since there are a lot on the internet that are just confusing and … well, wrong:

Map of the rice terraces around Dazhai, China.

The three viewpoints around Dazhai are the best ones in the area. There is no need to visit Ping An or any other places (unless you really want to) because these three are the most stunning views you’ll find. Oh and by the way: Whoever said, that you could get lost when walking around the rice terraces alone must be a complete idiot! There is absolutely no way you can get lost (unless – as said – you’re an idiot); all ways somehow lead to Dazhai or Tiantou village. What can happen is that you take the wrong turn and just have to walk a couple of hours longer to get to your goal but that’s it. Always bring a bottle of water and you’ll be more than fine …

Viewpoint Nr. 3 “Buddha’s Peak”.

As Austrians, we know our way around mountains. Therefore, the three hour walk (you can do it in one hour as well but we wanted to explore the area a little bit) was like a piece of cake for us :) After what felt like about 5.000 steep steps, we got to the top and were more than impressed from the view.

The famous view of the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces from viewpoint Nr. 3.

Dazhai village from viewpoint Nr. 3.

Longji Rice terraces viewpoint Nr. 3.

The view of Tiantou village from viewpoint Nr. 3.

Tiantou village in Longsheng County, China.

On the way up to viewpoint Nr. 3 of the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces.

Unfortunately, the Chinese government is currently building a gigantic cable car from the parking lot to viewpoint Nr. 3 (which is the most famous one) and therefore, tourist crowds will soon overrun this place. This is definitely made for the fat and lazy … The station is supposed to be finished this October … from then on, it can only go downhill because mass tourism in China is … well, pretty massive.

Viewpoint Nr. 2 ” Thousand Layers to Heaven”.

On the second day, we decided to check out viewpoint Nr. 2 and Nr. 1. Getting to Nr. 2 is pretty easy because it’s the lowest ones out of the three. The walk takes 30 minutes and is not that steep. Still, you have a great view of the scenery and landscape around Dazhai.

Close up of the rice terraces in Longsheng county, China.

View of Dazhai from Viewpoint Nr. 2 “Thousand Layers to Heaven”.

Rice terraces from Viewpoint Nr. 2 in Longsheng County, China.

Viewpoint Nr. 1 ” Music for Paradise”.

Viewpoint Nr. 1 is the highest one around Dazhai. It’s peak is at 1.200 meters and it takes about three hours to get up there. Again, you can probably to it on 1 1/2 hours but where’s the fun in that?

Walking back down from viewpoint Nr. 1 “Music for Paradise”.

Rice Terraces from Viewpoint Nr. 1 ” Music for Paradise”

All in all, the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces were absolutely stunning. They truly are the most impressive we’ve every seen and I’m pretty sure nothing can top that any time soon. One more good thing: I though that I was pretty fit before we visited Dazhai but after we left, my bum and thighs where more trained ;) All these steep steps have a positive effect on your figure. For those who don’t need (or better want) to get in shape, you can rent a palanquin with four strong Chinese men to carry you up to the top. You will surely get a lot of looks from the locals if you decide to go with this. Honestly, I thought it was the most ridiculous thing ever (unless your old or sick), especially because the ones sitting in those chairs are mostly overweight and uninterested in the scenery anyway. To each his own. We still prefer the old fashioned way of actually moving your ass :D

In the middle of the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces.

Up at viewpoint Nr. 3 in Longshend County, China.

These platforms can be seen everywhere in the middle of the rice fields, its an old believe that you have to put the seeds before sowing on top of this construction, if you place them on the ground, the seeds will get heavy and will take a long time to develop. There are a lot of “believes” surrounding the maintenance of a rice paddy!

The rice terraces in the river gorge north of Tegallalang village in central of Bali are generally considered to offer travellers the best photo opportunity. Other popular lush-green and well-tended Balinese rice paddy sites include those in the Ubud, Pupuan, Tabanan and Tirtagangga.

The rituals of the cycle of planting, maintaining, irrigating, and harvesting rice enriched the cultural life of Bali for thousand of years.

Rice terraces in Bali, Indonesia.

Rice terraces in Bali, Indonesia.

Rice terraces in Bali, Indonesia.

Rice terraces in Bali, Indonesia.

Rice terraces in Bali, Indonesia.