Key Facts, Milford Track Day 1.

• Length: 16 km
• Time: 5-7 hours
• Highlight: Wetlands

After crossing the emerald green Clinton River over the first of about 400 bridges (I unfortunately forgot the exact number Kelly mentioned), we walked up the valley of beech forest, passing Quintin Mackinnon’s first shelter hut built back in 1889.

A bit further was a little side track to the wetland area, which is definitely worth checking out! Wetland made me think of an area near a rivers or lake, however, this one was in the middle of a valley with no water in sight! Shrub brush and moss is all that grows here, due to a iron pan below the soil. But the beech trees are slowly taking over and will eventually convert the area to a dry land.

From here the walk continued pretty flat, before it climbed as it entered the Clinton Valley. Walking through the lush beech forest, you’ll cross a huge landslide from the 80’s which blocked the river and created a Dead Lake.

After approx. 11 kilometres, we reached the Hirere Falls. If you’re lucky and the weather allows it, you can get a sneak preview of Mackinnon Pass in the distance. After re-entering the forest, the surrounding opened up again. Since it was raining a lot in the last couple of days, countless waterfalls embellished the steep rock walls, which was really impressive. From here, it’s was just a short climb to Pompolona Lodge, where we were greeted with a nice warm cup of tea.

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House.
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge (you’re here right now).
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass.
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point.
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

View of the emerald green Clinton River while passing the suspension bridge on Milford Track.

The walk along Clinton river makes you feel like you’re so far away from civilisation (which is the case anyway).

A short side track to the wetland area. The lack of nutrients in the soil have stunted the growth of these Beech trees . The result is a Bonsai forest.

Although you continue on a flat walk, the area is not any less interesting…

Clinton Valley looks like out of Jurassic Park.

It had rained for many days before we started the track, which was perfect for all the waterfalls in the Clinton Valley.

Unfortunately, all huts were booked and I had no other choice but to go with a guided tour. And I did not regret it.

Milford Track With Ultimate Hikes.

When booking the hike, I was a bit skeptical about the value vs. the costs, because it’s definitely not inexpensive, yet it was worth every single cent! Walking Milford Track with Ultimate Hikes meant private lodges, (hot) showers, amazing 3-course meals, comfortable beds, drying rooms and also meeting some of the best people during my entire New Zealand adventure! Don’t get me wrong, I’m not very high-maintenance, but when passing some of the free walkers on the fourth day, I really started appreciating that hot shower even more!

Our guides Kelly, Adie and Melissa knew every step of the way and did an amazing job preparing us for the trek. They were a great part of one of my best travel experiences ever!

What To Bring When Walking Milford Track.

• Waterproof & breathable Reflex jacket (a good one will cost you, but you won’t regret it)
• Good walking boots/shoes
• Backpack & Waterproof Backpacker liner
• Thermal base layer (top & bottom)
• Headband
• Gloves
• Merino wool socks (good socks are absolutely essential)
• Insect Repellant (needed everywhere along the track, but especially Sutherland Falls & Sandfly Point)
• HikersWool (the best investment you’ll make – the lamb wool sucks away the moisture and you won’t get a single blister, promise!)

The weather in New Zealand can change instantly, therefore it’s really important to be prepared for any weather whilst on the track!

The History Of Milford Track.

Milford Track has a rich history almost as long as that of New Zealand itself. Donald Sutherland and John Mackay were the first European explorers who discovered the Sutherland and Mackay Falls in 1880. Sutherland started building a track up the Arthur Valley so visitors could see his falls. But access was limited by the rugged Fiordland coast and finding an overland route became necessary.

And Then Came Quintin McKinnon.

Quintin McKinnon was the trekker who began guiding tours along Milford Track. In 1887 McKinnon was employed by the Otago Survey Department to try and find a tourist route into Milford Sound. He was unsuccessful in this first attempt but gave it another go in 1888, this time with Ernest Mitchell in tow. They were instructed to cut a track up the river and to find a pass. McKinnon was successful and discovered a passage between the head of Lake Te Anau and Milford Sound, which was then named after him.

Day 0: Queenstown To Te Anau And Glade House.

Walking Distance: 1.6 kilometres / 15 minutes

Our adventure began at the Ultimate Hikes office in Queenstown. This is where my panic buying took its course and I found myself with some HikersWool and Merino wool socks for about 60 NZ$, which turned out to be the best investment I made in New Zealand (apart from my MacPac Waterproof jacket)!

We arrived in Te Anau after about one and a half hours just in time for lunch before continuing to the harbour where a launch brought us to the head of Lake Te Anau. From here it was just a short walk to the Glade House. After settling in, we went on a nature walk in the area and I gotta tell ya, it was a great advertisement for what we would expect the next couple of days! Milford Track is definitely more than just a physical journey; it’s one of those hikes you’ll never forget and tell your kids about.

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House (you’re here right now).
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge.
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass.
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point.
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

I couldn’t wait to start walking Milford Track, one of the finest walks in the world.

The coolest group of friends: The Hokey Pokey Club. And I was lucky to be a part of the club during the Milford Track :)

Ready, set, go! Take-off from Te Anau harbour.

It was a short walk from the jetty to Glade House, which lies right next to the Clinton River.

Sunlight filters onto the moss-covered wetland forest floor along Milford Track, creating soft sculptures.

The rain provides a mystical moss-draped forest along almost the entire way of Milford Track.

Even though we didn’t walk a lot on the first day of Milford Track, nature around Glade house was well worth staying there.

“Sea of the Viennese”.

Due to its location, the lake offers perfect conditions for sailing and windsurfing. But the “Sea of the Viennese” as we like to call it (it’s only about 45 kilometres from the capital city), has more to offer than just water sports. The most western steppe lake in Europe provides a natural habitat for a unique diversity of flora, fauna and wild life. Since 2001, the region around lake Neusiedl is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All of that makes it a special location worth visiting.

Often Underestimated.

Lake Neusield is very often underestimated. Yes, it’s not surrounded by imposing mountain landscape, it doesn’t offer cute little towns right next to the lake like Hallstatt (even though the town Rust for example is very charming), and some might even find the brown colour of the water disturbing. But as said, don’t underestimate it!

Almost the entire lake is surrounded by reeds, which serve as a habitat for wildlife, making the lake an important resting place for migratory birds. The region is actually known for its bird species-richness and some even say it’s one of the most exciting bird paradises in Europe. Equip yourself with a pair of Swarovski Optik CL Pocket 10 x 25 binoculars, a wind-proof jacket and some hiking boots and you’re pretty much ready to go.

Sailing is one of the main reasons people come to Lake Neusield in Austria.

There are several sailing schools around Lake Neusiedl, for beginners and experts.

Reed around Lake Neusiedl in Austria.

Swarovski CL Pocket 8 x 25 Binoculars.

After an action filled programme, Seerestaurant Katamaran in Rust is a great place to finish off the day.

Seerestaurant Katamaran in Rust is especially beautiful at sunset, sitting on the terrace and enjoying a good meal with a nice glass of wine.

After diving trips to Komodo Islands and Alor (both in Indonesia), it almost seemed that our list could not be topped with a better (dive) vacation. We got curious after reading an article about the discovery of unknown species and the hidden skulls on the islands around Raja Ampat. After getting together all available information, we finally bought the tickets to Sorong in West Papua (also known as Irian Jaya). You have to know, flying in Indonesia is not always the smoothest (plus I’m a little scaredy-cat when it comes to planes) and getting to Sorong needed a change of planes in Makassar. We stayed in Makassar in Sulawesi for a two day stop-over until we continued our journey.

Arriving with Merpati Nusantara Airlines in Makassar.

The Merpati flight to Sorong was quite bumpy and you couldn’t see much because the sky was covered with thick clouds. No land could be seen during the descent, therefore the landing approach was going to be difficult (I might add at this point that Sorong Airport does not have landing lights, so if the pilot can’t see he even won’t be guided by those lights). After circling for half an hour, the pilot braced himself and went down through an air pocket that opened up – it was one hell of a hard landing!

Sorong is a prospering jungle town focusing on upcoming oil findings. We booked into the hotel opposite of the airport (because it was first of all the “nicest” place and we would be picked up from there the next day) and started to explore the area.
We were lucky because on this day, the town hosted a national motorbike event … a little bit like the local Formula 1. It was a 125ccm motorbike competition and everybody (male) between the ages of 8 to 80 was there to cheer for their favourite racers. It really was a great thing to watch these guys dressed in full gear, racing on their tuned and chipped up scooters. Quite entertaining.

Getting ready for the race in Sorong…

The crowd is watching the race carefully.

Who will be the winner?

Even with these “little” bikes, a crash can happen.

After that we (of course) walked around the local market and I think that we must have been one of he few white people there to do so (ever). The market was as colourful as elsewhere and the busiest place in town. The minute we arrive, we were the talk of the day and we were followed by a huge crowd.

On the next day our boat was ready to leave. It took about one hour to get to Pulau Kri. Back then, there were not that many resorts in Raja Ampat but we booked ourselves into a very beautiful resort, which was run by a Dutch, called “Kri Eco Resort“. It really turned out to be a great choice; everything was organized, all the dive gear (I only brought my own Octopus & BCD) and dive boats were in order, the staff was fantastic because they looked after everyone’s well being all the time and the food was delicious. The bungalows where also very nice – simple, but nice. They were built right above the water as you can see in the picture. It was wonderful!

The resort on Pulau Kri in Raja Ampat.

Diving around the islands of Raja Ampat is … how can I describe it … simply breathtaking! Literally, after the first dive you want to immediately do the next one or never even leave the water at all. I was busy diving 3-4 times a day, always with one dive guide and group of maximum 4 people (nice!). I did cave dives, current dives (where you get sucked through small waterways between islands) & night dives. It was simply an unforgettable experience to dive with great Manta rays, sharks, or turtles. The reef is untouched and I couldn’t explain what kind of colour explosion happened down at 40 meters. Truly fantastic!

Diving with a school of Baracudas in Raja Ampat.

Diving in these “lake-like” surroundings was fantastic.

But not only the underwater scene of Raja Ampat was magical; we went on boat tours to uninhabited islets, walked along untouched beaches, ate freshly picked coconuts by our dive guides and we visited villages hardly ever seen by western people. If you know hard-core divers you’ll know that they are usually not very interested in things above water but we wanted to get to know the paradise we stayed in for three full weeks. The villages were surrounded by virgin jungle and the locals were more than friendly. Everyone greeted us with open arm, smiled and especially the kids were so excited that we were there with our video- & photo equipment. They had a blast when we showed them their pictures. But, even at these remote places we met one Chinese man who traded for coffee, exotic birds, sea cucumbers, and other strange or protected animals (that have a high price and are used as Chinese medicine). He was definitely not happy to see us wandering around there…

Uninhabitated islands can still be found in Raja Ampat.

The kids got so excited when we showed them their own video.

This is just one of the many fantastic beaches in Raja Ampat.

Me with a bunch of kids in tow.

With the boat we also passed strange looking rock formations with little caves where human skulls were places … nobody really knows how and by whom they were brought there. The people of Raja Ampat are afraid of the dead and therefore cemeteries are far away from the villages. The graves are usually covered with a little house and these constructions really did look a bit spooky even to us…

Human skulls in Raja Ampat.

A typical graveyard in Raja Ampat.

All in all, the trip there was one of the most memorable ever. Whether you’re a diver or not, Raja Ampat will take your breath away.

If you want to see more photos of Raja Ampat, check out our set on flickr.

The Falkensteinerhütte is about 25 minutes (driving) West of Vienna. Built in 1920, it is one of the oldest buildings in the “Schöpfl” area. Until this day, not that much has changed (except the obvious); it’s still furnished in a rustic way and the kitchen offers good (typical Austrian) comfort food. The heating consists of a wood-fired oven & there’s no internet connection. It’s a spot of which (nowadays) not many people know of and therefore not overrun (which is a good thing for us but bad for business). Back in the old days it was a well visited place but this changed in the last two decades. The owner told us that 20 years ago visitors from all over Austria & Germany came to the “Schöpfl” area to harvest mushrooms, or that families came in flocks to enjoy a nice day-trip. I guess today kids (and their parents) rather sit in front of the computer or TV than to take a nice str0ll outside…

So how come we knew about this secret getaway? Well, the Falkensteinerhütte used to be our weekend spot. From the ages of 7-10 we (& heaps of family friends) were there almost every month or so. Until one cold fall day (must have been in 1999 or 2000) when we arrived there and stood in front of closed doors. It really hit us hard that the Falkensteinerhütte had to lock its doors for good…

Since only June of this year, the Falkensteinerhütte re-opened and of course we had to check it out! It was almost like a trip back in time when we walked those 20 minutes through the forest. I could see myself & my friends fooling around while our parents were happy that we were occupied ;)

So if you’re looking for nature, tranquillity and an idea for your next weekend trip, the Falkensteinerhütte is the right spot for you!

Falkensteinerhütte Facts.

• Sea level: 642m
• Address: Schlottleiten 299, A-3033 Altlengbach
• How to get there: (There are a couple of ways but this one’s the fastest) Highway A21 “Wiener Außenring Autobahn” until the exit “Klausen-Leopoldsdorf”. From there the signs will lead you to “Gasthof Burda”. Park your car there and start walking. After 20-30 minutes you’ll arrive at the Falkensteinerhütte.
• Opening hours: Saturday, Sunday and holidays
• Other infos: Accommodation (mattresses) for 22 people – call in advance if you’re planning an overnight stay.

The drive up to the point where you start walking to the Falkensteiner Hütte is already worth a visit.

To get to the Falkensteiner Hütte you have to walk through the Viennese woods.

On your way to the Falkeinsteiner Hütte you’ll also pass a wonderful clearing.

And if you’re not in a rush to get to the Falkensteiner Hütte, there’s always time to fool around a bit.

Wonderful huge trees will guide you towards the Falkeinsteiner Hütte.

Just before you reach the Falkensteiner Hütte, you’ll pass by this beautiful new wall.

And after a approx. 20 minute walk, the Falkensteiner Hütte emerges.

Walking through the Viennese woods is really relaxing.

On the way back home, we decided to skip the highway and took the scenic tour.