Key Facts, Milford Track Day 3.

• Length: 21 km
• Time: 6-8 hours
• Highlight: Mackay Falls & taking a dip in the ice-cold water at the Giant Gate Falls

You’ll reach Mackay Falls (the most photographed place in all of New Zealand) and Lake Ada before hiking past the last waterfall on the track, the Giant Gate Falls. I couldn’t help myself and went in for a little swim. The water was ice-cold and I felt like a million needles pinched me, but afterwards I was re-born with superwomen powers and ready to finish the track. From here it took about one and a half hours to Sandfly Point. It’s a well deserved name, so be sure your have enough insect repellent ready.

Once you reach the accommodation at Milford Sound you’ll have a superb view of Mitre Peak (again, if the weather allows it).

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House.
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge.
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass.
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point (you’re here right now).
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

The landscape you’ll experience during Milford Track reminded me of the one in Jurassic Park.

The Mackay Falls are a wishbone-shaped waterfall on Milford Track. While lacking in height and power, it’s a welcome sight after going for a long stretch without seeing a major waterfall in Arthur Valley.

The fog lifted just after we started walking and what we got was one one of the most amazing landscape we’ve come across so far.

Day 3 of Milford Track meant the crossing of several suspension bridges.

One minute we walked through open fields, the next through a moss covered rain forest.

Key Facts, Milford Track Day 2.

• Length: 15 km
• Time: 6-8 hours (add 60-90 minutes for Sutherland Falls)
• Highlight: Hot shower, comfy bed and naturally, Mackinnon Pass was kinda cool even with crappy weather.

Starting from Pompolona Lodge, the track first lead to Lake Mintaro, before we started climbing Mackinnon Pass in a series of zig-zags. At the top you’d normally be rewarded with spectacular panorama – in case the weather allows it. Unfortunately we weren’t that lucky and Mackinnon Memorial greeted us with thick fog, pouring rain and temperatures just above the freezing point. We couldn’t wait getting away from the plateau fast enough and continued to Pass Hut, where we stopped for a short lunch break.

The way down was a complete change of scenery again: from wide openness to thick rain forest. After the rocky 1.000 metre descent into the Arthur Valley, I reached Quintin Lodge as the first one, so I decided to continue to the Sutherland Falls, the world’s fifth highest waterfall. It would have been an amazing experience, yet sandflies and rain were enough for me to immediately turn around. The though of a hot shower, drying room and warm bed gave me wings and I was back at Quintin Lodge in no time. I’m really not a sissy, but I wouldn’t have wanted to slip back into my wet shoes the next day, so thanks again for the luxury Ultimate Hikes!

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House.
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge.
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass (you’re here right now).
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point.
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

At the beginning od Day 2, you’ll come across excellent views of Lake Mintaro and the Clinton Valley.

Before arriving at the top of Mackinnen Pass, the walk begins to follow a series of switchbacks out of the bush and into the alpine sections of the route.

The track then reaches the large memorial cairn that honours the discovery of this scenic spot by Quintin Mackinnon and Ernest Mitchell, in 1888.

If the weather is fair, there are impressive views all around of the Clinton and Arthur valleys and several nearby peaks. In this case, trampers like to spend some extra time at the pass; if it isn’t, they can’t get off it fast enough – which was exactly what we did.

The track crosses beneath Mount Balloon and the Jervois Glacier to the Moraine Creek Bridge.

After the Moraine Creek Bridge, it then follows a boardwalk and staircase beside the Roaring Burn River, with its numerous waterfalls.

Key Facts, Milford Track Day 1.

• Length: 16 km
• Time: 5-7 hours
• Highlight: Wetlands

After crossing the emerald green Clinton River over the first of about 400 bridges (I unfortunately forgot the exact number Kelly mentioned), we walked up the valley of beech forest, passing Quintin Mackinnon’s first shelter hut built back in 1889.

A bit further was a little side track to the wetland area, which is definitely worth checking out! Wetland made me think of an area near a rivers or lake, however, this one was in the middle of a valley with no water in sight! Shrub brush and moss is all that grows here, due to a iron pan below the soil. But the beech trees are slowly taking over and will eventually convert the area to a dry land.

From here the walk continued pretty flat, before it climbed as it entered the Clinton Valley. Walking through the lush beech forest, you’ll cross a huge landslide from the 80’s which blocked the river and created a Dead Lake.

After approx. 11 kilometres, we reached the Hirere Falls. If you’re lucky and the weather allows it, you can get a sneak preview of Mackinnon Pass in the distance. After re-entering the forest, the surrounding opened up again. Since it was raining a lot in the last couple of days, countless waterfalls embellished the steep rock walls, which was really impressive. From here, it’s was just a short climb to Pompolona Lodge, where we were greeted with a nice warm cup of tea.

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House.
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge (you’re here right now).
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass.
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point.
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

View of the emerald green Clinton River while passing the suspension bridge on Milford Track.

The walk along Clinton river makes you feel like you’re so far away from civilisation (which is the case anyway).

A short side track to the wetland area. The lack of nutrients in the soil have stunted the growth of these Beech trees . The result is a Bonsai forest.

Although you continue on a flat walk, the area is not any less interesting…

Clinton Valley looks like out of Jurassic Park.

It had rained for many days before we started the track, which was perfect for all the waterfalls in the Clinton Valley.

Unfortunately, all huts were booked and I had no other choice but to go with a guided tour. And I did not regret it.

Milford Track With Ultimate Hikes.

When booking the hike, I was a bit skeptical about the value vs. the costs, because it’s definitely not inexpensive, yet it was worth every single cent! Walking Milford Track with Ultimate Hikes meant private lodges, (hot) showers, amazing 3-course meals, comfortable beds, drying rooms and also meeting some of the best people during my entire New Zealand adventure! Don’t get me wrong, I’m not very high-maintenance, but when passing some of the free walkers on the fourth day, I really started appreciating that hot shower even more!

Our guides Kelly, Adie and Melissa knew every step of the way and did an amazing job preparing us for the trek. They were a great part of one of my best travel experiences ever!

What To Bring When Walking Milford Track.

• Waterproof & breathable Reflex jacket (a good one will cost you, but you won’t regret it)
• Good walking boots/shoes
• Backpack & Waterproof Backpacker liner
• Thermal base layer (top & bottom)
• Headband
• Gloves
• Merino wool socks (good socks are absolutely essential)
• Insect Repellant (needed everywhere along the track, but especially Sutherland Falls & Sandfly Point)
• HikersWool (the best investment you’ll make – the lamb wool sucks away the moisture and you won’t get a single blister, promise!)

The weather in New Zealand can change instantly, therefore it’s really important to be prepared for any weather whilst on the track!

The History Of Milford Track.

Milford Track has a rich history almost as long as that of New Zealand itself. Donald Sutherland and John Mackay were the first European explorers who discovered the Sutherland and Mackay Falls in 1880. Sutherland started building a track up the Arthur Valley so visitors could see his falls. But access was limited by the rugged Fiordland coast and finding an overland route became necessary.

And Then Came Quintin McKinnon.

Quintin McKinnon was the trekker who began guiding tours along Milford Track. In 1887 McKinnon was employed by the Otago Survey Department to try and find a tourist route into Milford Sound. He was unsuccessful in this first attempt but gave it another go in 1888, this time with Ernest Mitchell in tow. They were instructed to cut a track up the river and to find a pass. McKinnon was successful and discovered a passage between the head of Lake Te Anau and Milford Sound, which was then named after him.

Day 0: Queenstown To Te Anau And Glade House.

Walking Distance: 1.6 kilometres / 15 minutes

Our adventure began at the Ultimate Hikes office in Queenstown. This is where my panic buying took its course and I found myself with some HikersWool and Merino wool socks for about 60 NZ$, which turned out to be the best investment I made in New Zealand (apart from my MacPac Waterproof jacket)!

We arrived in Te Anau after about one and a half hours just in time for lunch before continuing to the harbour where a launch brought us to the head of Lake Te Anau. From here it was just a short walk to the Glade House. After settling in, we went on a nature walk in the area and I gotta tell ya, it was a great advertisement for what we would expect the next couple of days! Milford Track is definitely more than just a physical journey; it’s one of those hikes you’ll never forget and tell your kids about.

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House (you’re here right now).
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge.
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass.
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point.
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

I couldn’t wait to start walking Milford Track, one of the finest walks in the world.

The coolest group of friends: The Hokey Pokey Club. And I was lucky to be a part of the club during the Milford Track :)

Ready, set, go! Take-off from Te Anau harbour.

It was a short walk from the jetty to Glade House, which lies right next to the Clinton River.

Sunlight filters onto the moss-covered wetland forest floor along Milford Track, creating soft sculptures.

The rain provides a mystical moss-draped forest along almost the entire way of Milford Track.

Even though we didn’t walk a lot on the first day of Milford Track, nature around Glade house was well worth staying there.

Wellington is no sleepy layover town where you catch the ferry across the Cook Strait. I immediately fell in love with New Zealand’s capital. It’s one of those cities I could actually live in. Who knows, maybe some day… Before I got to Wellington, I spent a couple of very lonely days on Cape Palliser, so a little city life didn’t turn me off. I decided to stay for two full days.

I spent most of my days strolling the city along the beautiful bay, sitting on one of the side walks along the way with a good cup of strong coffee.; no visit to the city is complete without a walk along the waterfront.

Up from Mount Victoria Lookout you have get a panoramic view of city and harbour. You can watch the ferries sailing in through the harbour and aircraft taking off from Wellington Airport. It’s also one of the city’s most popular visitor sites. And for LOTR fans, it’s also quite a special place; some of the very first footage for The Lord of the Rings Trilogy was filmed here. “We found a really good, spooky-looking road for the scene where the four Hobbits run and hide under the tree roots as the Black Rider approaches” Sir Peter Jackson says of the site on Mount Victoria, which was used in the famous ‘Get off the road’ scene. Unfortunately I came across this only after I left Wellington, so I have to return some day – which is on my agenda for 2015 anyway.

The view of Wellington from Mount Victoria Lookout.

Walking along the waterfront of Wellington is an absolute must for every visitor.

Paddling along the waterfront in a Kayak is also a good way to experience Wellington a different way.

Mount Victoria in Wellington is a well known spot for visitors and looks like a nice area to live in.

Downtown Wellington viewed from the top of Mount Victoria.

Street artist have done some amazing graffiti work in the centre of Wellington.

Exploring Downtown Wellington was a real highlight.

I love street art because it’s available for everyone at any time of the day.

Take off at the ferry terminal if the Interislander in Wellington.

The ferry ride across Cook Strait was a real highlight. Especially when reaching the South Island.

The Help Of The Army Of The Dead Is Needed.

The ‘Paths of the Dead‘ is a haunted pass through the White Mountains. The Army of the Dead accompanied Aragorn to Minas Tirith to defeat Sauron’s orcs, after which Aragorn declared their curse lifted. This scene was filmed at the Aorangi Forest Park where you can’t miss the sight of the weird rock formations of the Putangirua Pinnacles – an amazing collection of hoodoos.

An Unease Feeling.

Cape Palliser itself is an area only very few tourist visit, plus it’s only sparsely populated. During my entire trip, I’ve never felt uncomfortable about hiking by myself or being the only person for hundred of miles; my visit to the Putangirua Pinnacles thought me right! Let’s just say, a serial killer would have his fun down here…

Since I had to get to Wellington on the same day, I decided I would start my hike early in the morning. I packed up my backpack and camera equipment and drove the 13 kilometres along Cape Palliser Road until I reached the Putangirua Pinnacles Scenic Reserve. By the time I got there, it was 7.20 am. The camp-site was empty apart from one creepy looking truck and a camper van. From the time I got there, I had a weird feeling, yet my mind was set: I wanted to see these breath-taking pinnacles. The first ten minutes into the track where fine.

And then it hit me: No cell-phone reception, complete stillness, no one around me and that truck at the camp-site. Shivers went down my back and I started realizing, why Peter Jackson chose this place: The eerie stillness really gets to you! I tried focusing on the surroundings, but I couldn’t help to turn around every couple of metres to make sure no one was following me…

One Hour – And Lots Of Sweat – Later.

Finally, after sweating like crazy (due to my running), I reached the Putangirua Pinnacles. It was an impressive sight. And my unease feeling was gone all over sudden. I simply focused on the surroundings and absorbed every minute. Visiting these ancient Putangirua Pinnacles and absorbing the stillness of the ‘Middle-earth’ setting was breath-taking and super scary at the same time!

Length: Three routes lead to the Putangirua Pinnacles from the camp-site. Allow2 – 3 hours for a round trip. For a longer walk, with excellent views of Palliser Bay, allow 3 – 4 hours for a round trip.

The Puntangirua Pinnacles consist of a large number of hoodoos located in a valley of the Aorangi Ranges.

The Putangirua Pinnacles are a geological formation and one of New Zealand’s best examples of badlands erosion.

The Paths of the Dead sequence in the film The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King was filmed on in the Putangirua Pinnacles Scenic Reserve.

The majestic Putangirua Pinnacles were formed over the past 120.000 years by heavy rain which gradually eroded an ancient gravel deposit.

The Aorangi Forest Park and the surrounding area features some of New Zealand’s most striking landforms, including the Putangirua Pinnacles.

The ‘badlands erosion’ of Putangirua Pinnacles is a spectacular landscape feature attracting visitors from all over the world to the southern Wairarapa.

My trip began in Auckland, and I continued to the Coromandel Peninsular, Hobbiton, further onwards to the Tongariro National Park, and finally reached Wellington. But before I got to the capital city, I had two days along the coast on Cape Palliser.

A ferryman and his hotel.

Lake Ferry is a sleepy little village that sits next to Lake Onoke. Following a drowning back in 1850, a ferry service was established across the lake. The ferryman needed accommodation and so he opened the Lake Ferry Hotel in 1851. This is where I would stay the next 48 hours.

Driving down to the hotel already gave me a good impression on what I would get the next two days: Peace and quite. Zero tourists, very few locals and no sounds other than the wind & ocean. Lake Ferry mostly consists of holiday homes and only a few permanent residents, therefore don’t expect a lot of action here.

Sheep, a scenic ocean road and a lighthouse.

Before reaching the coastal road, you drive through an amazing field landscape, with sheep as the only living thing in sight. European settlers brought sheep and cattle into this area in 1844. After about 20 minutes of driving, you’ll reach the winding road along the coast. It’s truly a ridiculously scenic drive with steep cliffs on one side and an endless ocean with black-sand beaches on the other.

Fields decorate the landscape along the road down to the coast on Cape Palliser, New Zealand.

You won’t find many people on Cape Palliser; instead, the fields are full of sheep along the road to the southernmost area of the North Island.

The dramatic weather scene along the coastal road on Cape Palliser was a great photo opportunity.

As a solo traveller through New Zealand, you can really feel ‘alone’ from time to time. Cape Palliser was definitely one of the loneliest places I have to.

I got the most amazing impressions and was overwhelmed with the atmosphere of the area. Therefore I was ready to drive down even further, all the way to the famous lighthouse I read about many months before.

Cape Palliser lighthouse – the southernmost point of the North Island – would test my fitness. To reach the candy-striped lighthouse, you must climb up the 254 (very steep) steps. Being up at the top, you really get the feeling of pure remoteness, combined with stunning views that extend all they way to the South Island on a clear day. But not only the the landscape was unreal; at one point the power of the wind was so strong, I was unable to stand up straight.

Cape Palliser lighthouse was the reason I came to this area in the first place, and it made every minute being there worthwhile. The most photogenic lighthouse in New Zealand was a true highlight!

The ocean road along the coast of Cape Palliser is dramatically scenic. It was one of the most impressive drives during my trip through New Zealand.

Cape Palliser Lighthouse; the southernmost point of the North Island – it’s in fact considerably further south than Nelson or Blenheim in the South Island – and one of the most remote places in New Zealand.

It’s hard to convey the feeling I had up at Cape Palliser lighthouse. Happy and content would describe it best … and I’m sure that the atmosphere was a great factor for this.

While driving along Cape Palliser road, you will come across wonderful creatures along the rocks just off the side of the road.

On your way to or from the Cape Palliser lighthouse, you must keep your eyes open for the nearby seal colony.

It’s easy to see why this area of ocean was known for seafaring disasters. This storm came quicker than I had hoped for and the ocean turned into a ravaging element.

When I saw a storm approaching, I quickly packed up my camera gear and headed back down the stairs. The Putangirua Pinnacles had to wait until the next morning, because just as I reached the Lake Ferry hotel, it started pouring cats and dogs…

Ok, I have to admit that for my age, Hobbiton shouldn’t have been on my main agenda for a first visit to New Zealand. Though when planning my one-month route across the country, I had focal points that – among other things – consisted of LOTR filming location – and Hobbiton was a must of course.

When Peter Jackson flew over New Zealand scouting film locations for “The Lord of the Rings“, he was impressed by the green hills and peaceful pastures surrounding the little farming town of Matamata. He knew that he had found the perfect location for the Shire…

Personally, I felt like Hobbiton was not as exciting as I thought it would be. I mean the site itself is cute and all, but I guess only real LOTR geeks feel a tingle when crossing Bag End, The Old Mill or the Green Dragon Inn. I much rather got that feeling while climbing up Mt. Doom during the Tongariro Alpine Crossing or trekking around Mount Sunday (aka Edoras) in the Rangitata Valley.

… Although, after watching “The Fellowship on the Ring” last night (for the first time after my trip), I’m happy for having seen it at least one time.

Bag End – home of Bilbo Baggins – at Hobbiton in Matamata, New Zealand.

The Green Dragon Inn at Hobbiton in Matamata, New Zealand.

The Old Mill at Hobbiton in Matamata, New Zealand.

Sam’s House at Hobbiton in Matamata, New Zealand.

Hobbiton is located near the base of the Kaimai Ranges, and is a thriving farming area.

Even if you are not a LOTR fan, Hobbiton is still a unique place, found nowhere else.

Just before flying across the Tasman Sea, I spent two weeks in and around Sydney, which pretty much meant “beach, more beach, and even more beach”. This would give me the rest that would be needed before completing treks like the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Milford Track or Rangitata Valley trip.

But, before I started my hiking adventures across New Zealand, Cathedral Cove (also known as Te Whanganui-A-Hei) was on my agenda – yes, I saw the movie Narnia. That large pinnacle that looked like the sail from a boat made quite the impression on me. So after two days in Auckland, I drove off to the Coromandel Peninsula.

I passed the beautiful Hot Water beach before arriving at the car park near Hahei beach. From there it was a nice walk down to the Cove. It took me 40 minutes, but I was pretty fast since I needed to continue to Matamata on the same day. It usually takes about 1 – 1 1/2 hours. The walk itself is nice and should be enjoyed, but due to heaps of people, I’d rather recommend to just get down to the Cove. Here you won’t be alone, since Cathedral Cove is one of the most visited places in the area. Yet is was still a real highlight and if I return there (which I will for sure), I’ll give myself more time to explore the region even more…

The striking rock is known as ‘Te Hoho’. It’s a large pinnacle at Cathedral Cove. Over centuries this has been sculpted by wind and water.

From Hahei Beach you can walk to Cathedral Cove, where a naturally formed archway are a real eye-catcher.

The famous Cathedral Cove. The cathedral-like arch makes quite an impression…

Cathedral Cove is one of the most picturesque spots on the Coromandel Peninsula.

A one-hour walking track leads through forest along the cliff top and then descends to the Cove.

Watch them on full screen and I assure you, goosebumps are guaranteed!