I actually found the place by luck, I didn’t ask anyone for directions, I just drove my car up and down the peninsula of Nouadhibou. I wanted to get an overview of one of the most dilapidated cities I had ever seen. This is where Iron Ore Train ends, one of the longest trains in the world, which makes Nouadhibou the most important area in poor Mauritania.

When A White Western Woman Enters The Office Of The Mauritanian Railway Authorities.

So here I was, walking into the shed of the Mauritanian Railway Authorities to enquire about the possibility to transport my car and myself to Choum, approximately 500 km east of Nouadhibou. The deal was done in the blink of an eye. With one place still available, I could put my car on the train. I only had to decide immediately, since the train was about to leave. I quickly checked my water and food supply, which would last for some days and gave it a go. 120 Euros for the car plus myself was a fair price and within the next couple of minutes, my car was loaded and tied to a platform for vehicles. My ticket said no passengers in the car, but nobody obliged when I asked if I could spend the journey in or on the car. I started making arrangements for the coming 30 hours: water, food, snacks were all at hand, towel, toothbrush and toilet paper on the dashboard, cameras and mobile phone as well within easy reach. Check, check, double check.

It took hours of turning switches, pulling the wagons and platforms up and down the tracks, back and forth to have them all in right position ready for the long journey East. Finally, around 8pm, after seven hours of waiting (talk about an immediate decision making), everything was set and the train took off honking repeatedly, taking the endless semicircle track out of Nouadhibou.

A Long, Rocking Night, The Most Beautiful Sunrise And A Frustrating Awakening.

Even with 40° Celsius during daytime, temperatures drop fast and I was happy that I had blankets and a sleeping bag nearby. Lying outstretched in the back of my station wagon, the night was almost comfortable… well not really, but better than expected. Nights in the desert are cold and pitch-black. I knew this from my trips across the Sahara Desert in the 70s & 80s and so I wasn’t able to see anything when the train stopped at night. I just heard voices somewhere in the distance. The position of my platform was near the end of the train, so I was not bothered by anyone during the night.

Morning arrived and I watched a beautiful sunrise while the train tugged leisurely into Choum. The wind had covered everything with layers of sand mixed with dust of iron ore from the wagons. Choum was actually the place where I had planned to get off, but I quickly realised that there was no loading off point for cars. “Sorry Madam, next stop for unloading cars is Zouérat” I was told, though in the guys in Nouadhibou had told me otherwise. Unloading cars in Choum was only recently stopped, so there was no chance for me to get off here. This was a bit upsetting, because it would put me approximately 200 km in the wrong direction, but I couldn’t do anything about it. I sat back down on top of my car and looked into the Mauritanian desert.

The toilet situation was a bit of a hassle. It was a new experience for sure. Hanging out of the car, hanging on to the platform needed concentration, one wrong move and you could fall off. I got the hang of it after a couple of times.

From Hero To Zero.

Another few hours further, with lots of stops in between, the train finally pulled into Zouérat. Again, the turning of switches, pulling and pushing of wagons took two hours until my platform finally came to a halt somewhere in the middle of nowhere. All I could see was how the Diesel locomotive pulled away.

Close by, though lightyears away, I could see the unloading facility for cars. Another platform was already loaded for the trip back to Nouadhibou, while my car was just a stone throw away, without a chance of getting off. This was very annoying and put my patience to the test. I asked several officers and workers when my car would be unloaded and I got the same answer every time “In a while Madam”. In Africa, “in a while” can mean one hour, five hours, 12 hours or more than 24 hours. Time runs slow here. So, after waiting another three hours in the soaring heat, with someone occasionally walking by, noticing my impatience yet not doing anything, my nerves went rock bottom. I stepped down from platform and walked along the railway tracks up to the station office and demanded to speak to the station master.

Mauritanians are generally very polite people but are definitely not used to talking to Western (female) tourists. The country is dominated by males, especially in this business. Politeness is very helpful and I demanded politely to see the station master. It took a while until one of the men started to move to show me the way to his office. After a couple of minutes, this guy came out of his office with some other officers in tow, and was frankly quite irritated to see a Western woman demanding to speak to him. I explained my situation and he and the others didn’t seem to be bothered at all and said that my car would be unloaded in a while. Then it was over, my nerves collapsed and I started crying.

My breakdown changed the entire situation. The officers stared at me and my crying, not sure whether to be astonished or shocked and immediately started talking in their local language. After a minute of discussion, the station master said I should stop crying, they will immediately start the Diesel locomotive and will unload my car within 10 minutes.

What more can I say? The station master guided me to his car, drove me back to my car and presented me with a big box of water bottles. During my breakdown, I might have also mentioned that I was running out of water, which I hoped would increase the unloading process, and he must have really felt sorry for me. It didn’t take long and my platform was towed up and down the tracks to bring me to the unloading section. The car was unlocked from the platform, I drove down and followed the station masters car until I was on the right road back to Choum where I actually had planned to get off.

This evening I stopped near a military checkpoint along the road and asked for permission to sleep nearby, since there was no hotel to be found anywhere. I set up my tent and fell asleep immediately.

The Iron Ore Train fills its 2.5 km of wagons (which is the second longest on earth) with the iron ore and then heads back to the coastal city of Nouadhibou.

The view off the coast of Mauritania’s Bay of Nouadhibou used to be spotted with rusting hulks in every direction. Today, this Ship Breaking Yard is almost gone, due to an injection of capital from the Chinese.

The Mauritanian Railways opened in 1963. It consists of a single, 704 km railway line linking the iron mining centre of Zouérat with the port of Nouadhibou.

Two or three trains make a daily departure to pick up iron ore from a mine in Eastern Mauritania.

Uploading my car onto the Iron Ore Train in Nouadhibou was already an adventure itself.

While the Iron Ore Train snakes its way through Mauritania, you’ll come across wrecks from all sorts of vehicles – here, old Diesel locomotives that were once in use have been parked.

Wrecks are a normal sight when riding through Mauritania on the Iron Ore Train.

One thing is for sure: the sunset and sunrise while on the Iron Ore Train in Mauritania were some of the most beautiful ones I have ever encountered.

Sitting on top of the Iron Ore Train, while looking at nothing around you but the Mauritanian desert, is an experience of a lifetime.

The bulk cargo train travels from the Sahara desert to the coast through dry nowhere to transport valuable minerals across Mauritania.

The Mauritania Railway serves not only as the sole connection between remote locations and the country’s only major shipping port, Nouadhibou, but as free transport for locals seeking to travel from isolated communities to the coast.

The Sahara desert lived up to its nickname, ‘the White Man’s Grave’, as temperatures during the day sore to a blistering 50° Celsius.

The Iron Ore Train is up to 2.5 kilometres long, making it one of the longest and heaviest in the world. It normally consist of 3 or 4 diesel-electric EMD locomotives, around 200 cars each carrying up to 84 tons of iron ore, and 2-3 service cars. The total traffic averages is 16.6 million tons per year.

Nouadhibou is the second largest city in Mauritania and serves as a major commercial centre and is the country’s economic capital, due to being the final stop of the Iron Ore Train.

The Capital Of Ladakh.

Leh lies at an altitude of 3.524 metres and due to the strong influence of Tibetan Buddhism, the city is also known as Little Tibet or the Land of Lamas. Although not as high as some of the passes across the Leh-Manali Highway, the atmosphere and especially the sky is exceptional. You’re closer to heaven and not only can you see, but feel it! Leh radiates something I can’t quite nail down. Something peaceful and mysterious at the same time. We felt like staying in an old western town with a gold-rush mood… the next three days would let us explore this amazing town and the beautiful surrounding Gompas.

Religious Tolerance And Respect For Cultures.

Even today the Jammu and Kashmir region is often in the news due to religious clashes. The dispute actually dates back to August 1947, when the partition of the Indian sub-continent led to the formation of India and Pakistan. Because of its location, Kashmir could choose to join either India or Pakistan. The ruler of Kashmir, Maharaja Hari Singh, was Hindu while the majority of the population were Muslims, therefore he wasn’t able to decide whether Kashmir should join India or Pakistan. In the end, Kashmir remained neutral. But his hopes of independence only lasted until October 1947, when Pakistan sent in Muslim tribesmen to Srinagar. The Maharaja then appealed to the Indian government for military assistance. In return, he signed the Instrument of Accession, which stated that Kashmir would join India on October 26, 1947, with a portion of it having passed to Pakistan’s control.

Since 1947, India and Pakistan have fought three wars and only this January, thousands of civilians have fled their homes, due to the clashes along the 200-kilometre stretch of the border. It’s unclear for how long this battle will continue.

But on the brighter side, Leh radiated a sense of calmness. At least we had that feeling. Here you can hear the muezzin, as well as the buddhists chantings. You’ll come across mosques, before passing a Tibetian prayer wheel. The architecture in the town also shows both Buddhist and Muslim styles. So what is it, that makes it possible for Muslims and Buddhists to leave peacefully side by side? Whether this is just the calm before the storm remains a mystery…

The Himalayas Lie At Your Feet.

Leh isn’t very big and most parts can be navigated on foot – which is the best way to explore any city anyway. There are many excellent guesthouses and mid-range hotels to choose from, as well as numerous restaurants serving great Indian, Tibetan and Western food. Best food place in town is definitely World Garden Cafe, where we actually ate something after three days of crackers and rice (it’s not India without a little vomiting). The most dominant structure is definitely Leh Palace built in the same style as the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. But also worth a visit is Shanti Stupa and Namgyal Tsemo Gompa. This monastery is the highest point in Leh with a fantastic birds eye view of the city. But be aware that if you’re still struggling with altitude sickness, the additional 200 metres can become a real challenge…

From just about everywhere in Leh, you can see a sweeping panoramic view of the Himalayas rising above town. Maybe it’s the vibes of these great mountains that make Leh such an incredible place!

In Leh, it’s the sights that act as a reminder of a spirit-centric population. There’s a great sense of peace in Ladakh, built on religious tolerance and respect for other cultures.

Leh Palace is the city’s dominant structure and architectural icon.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa is the highest point in Leh with a fantastic birds eye view of the city. One can reach the monastery with a short car ride or by trekking up right from the city centre.

Prayer wheels can be found across Leh. For us, they radiate peace and calmness, especially when in use…

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa was founded in the early 15th century by King Tashi Namgyal.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa stands atop behind Leh Palace. Because of its position, it offers some of the most amazing views of the town.

Leh Palace is a nine-storey dun-coloured palace that has great similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa (Tibet).

From just about everywhere in Leh (here we were on our way to Leh Palace) you get a sweeping panoramic view of the Himalayas rising above town.

Leh’s main Bazaar and the surrounding streets have numerous shops selling souvenirs, mostly Tibetan antiques or replicas.

Tibetan handicraft items including prayer wheels, Buddhist masks and paintings can be purchased at the markets in Leh.

The Spanish Riding School in Vienna is the only institution in the world where classical horsemanship according to the Renaissance tradition of the Haute Ecole has been practiced and cultivated for almost half a millennium! The objective of classical horsemanship is to study the natural steps and movements of the horse bringing it to the highest level of Haute Ecole by systematic training. This results in an unparalleled harmony between rider and horse, as only Vienna’s Spanish Riding School is presenting it nowadays.

This Friday, June 26, the world famous Spanish Riding School in Vienna is celebrating its 450 year anniversary.  It’ll be a historic event with a special anniversary gala of the Lipizzaner horses live from the Heldenplatz in Vienna. You’ll get two hours of pure Lippizaner dressage highlights. And I’m stoked to be a part of it, thanks to ServusTV.

Many of you won’t be here to enjoy the show, but you can still follow this event easily via your computer or mobile device. The Austrian TV station will broadcast this event live and for free via web stream.

When And Where.

When: Friday, June 26, 2015

Each horse has its own rider at the Spanish Riding School. Together they built are perfectly trained team. © Spanische Hofreitschule |Stefan Seelig

In the capriole, the horse jumps from a raised position of the forehand straight up into the air, kicks out with the hind legs, and lands more or less on all four legs at the same time. It requires an enormously powerful horse to perform correctly, and is considered the most difficult of all the airs above the ground. © Spanische Hofreitschule | Rene van Bakel

A pas de deux is an equestrian performance using two horses. The horses perform dressage movements, usually mirroring each other, and almost always accompanied by music. Pas de deux are often performed in exhibitions at special events, and are also used by professional acts, particularly the Spanish Riding School. © Spanische Hofreitschule | Michael Rzepa

The performance finishes with the “School Quadrille”, consisting of 8 riders working in formation at the walk, trot, and canter, with flying changes, pirouettes, the half pass and the passage. The ride is performed to classical music. Lasting 20 minutes, the School Quadrille of the Spanish Riding School is the longest and most difficult in the world. © Spanische Hofreitschule | Rene van Bakel

Getting Ready For Our African Adventure.

After travelling through western Africa a few times, the idea to visit Sudan, the Central African Republic and the back then called Zaire (nowadays Democratic Republic of the Congo) stuck with me. In those days, most of the western population has never even heard of these countries. Beside the occasional cruelty report of course (e.g. King Bokassa of the Central African Republic doing shitty things, or President Mobutu Sese Seko becoming a megalomaniac, of course the first Ebola outbreak and Aids was linked down there as well…). This idea of mine went into the final stage with the purchase of a Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 truck – only the best would do for this trip (until then, we’ve travelled Africa with an Dodge WC52, a Mercedes-Benz Unimog 411 truck, a Gräf & Stift truck, and and outside broadcasting van from the Austrian Broadcasting cooperation). We added a huge tailored aluminium cube onto the back that served as our miniflat; bedroom, kitchen, storage, sink and closet. The roof rack was used for the transportation of fuel, water supplies, spare tyres and a place to set up the tent at night when the weather was fine. This also gave us some sort protection, because from the top of the vehicle we could scan the area around us better. Nisa’s baby cot was stored between the front seats. I have to admit that everything was a bit cramped, but we were happy to set off to these countries that were hardly ever visited by people just for fun. Oh and of course we had a dog with us as well. The Maier family was set and ready to leave.

This is how we travelled through Africa: a Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 truck, a tent, a dog and lots of food, water & Diesel supplies.

Entering Egypt In Alexandria And Continuing To The Nile Valley.

We drove down to Greece via former Yugoslavia. From Athens to Crete by local ferry and from Crete to Alexandria with a huge car/passenger ship. In Egypt, the real adventure started.

It took quite some hours to get the permission to enter Egypt with a private car. We had all the relevant papers (Carnet de Passages, etc.), but in Egypt one needed local number plates as a temporary registration with a local insurance…to cut a long story short, we waited for hours to get all these requirements. The only issue that we had worried about before, turned out to be a non issue at customs: the dog.

We spent the first night sleeping on our roof rack right in front of the pyramids in Giza. It would have been a stunning night, but the barking dogs around us made it impossible. We were told that there are occasional dog chasers if things ran out of control (rabies was a big issue). Sometimes we even had hordes of dogs following us when driving along the Nile river, and at times it was impossible to get out of the car. And when there were no dogs around, we were immediately surrounded by hordes of children once we stopped. It was an exciting trip through Egypt indeed, nevertheless the Nile Valley is one of the densest populated areas in the world, so we didn’t have a single moment without people – even when sneaking behind a bush for our private business one had interested company…

Egypt has been called the gift of the Nile, for without the river it could not exist as a fertile, populous country. Its character and history have been shaped by the stark contrast between the fecund Nile Valley and its Delta, and the arid wastes that surround them.

A main attraction of Farafra is its White Desert, known as Sahara el Beyda. The White Desert is a national park. The deserts centrepieces are the snow-white to cream coloured rocks.

The desert landscape in Egypt sometimes really looked like out of space.

Off We Were To Aswan To Enter Sudan On A Barge.

Contrary to the Nile Valley, Dhakla and Farafra Oasis in the western part of Egypt are remote. Only sparsely populated villages can be found here. For hundreds of kilometres not a single soul can be seen along the road. It was quite a unique experience to camp between strange rock formations without any noise at all except our own heartbeats. The only light came up from the sky (I’ve never seen more stars than that night).

Finally, after visiting the valley of the Kings in Luxor, we arrived in Aswan, home to the Abu Simbel temples and the reservoir dam from where you can travel to Sudan by barge. This is how we wanted to enter Sudan. We’ve done exactly the same a few years before, back then with a smaller car, which made the shifting onboard easy. But now with our big truck, the complications started. First they always tell you that is ‘s possible, but for how much money? Secondly, the timing wasn’t ideal: our Sudanese visa was almost expired, and we were told that you have to arrive in the country a certain amount of time before the visa expires. And thirdly, this barge that would have carried our baby really looked a bit too worn out.

Aswan has always been an important strategic point. For us it would be our entering point to Sudan.

The Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, located beneath the cliffs at Deir el Bahari on the west bank of the Nile near the Valley of the Kings.

Making New Friends & Decisions.

Decision needed to be made. We sat in Aswan on the one and only campground (if that’s what you want to call it), in the middle of the town with hustle and bustle day and night. It was rather an empty lot where the occasional overland traveller took shelter. The decision was made the next evening when a big MAN truck, followed by two BMW cross-country motorbikes, pulled in.

It only took a bottle of whatever and a bit of brainstorming and our goal was clear. Since there was no chance to get a permission to enter Sudan from Egypt legally (officials had told us there were some incidents with lost travellers in the past), this Austrian-German-Canadian convoy would cross the Egyptian-Sudanese boarder illegally through the desert.

Our Austrian-German-Canadian convoy that would cross the Sudanese-Egyptian border illegally: our Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406, a MAN truck and two BMW’s motorbikes.

Our Plan: Map, Compass & Sand Dunes.

Our plan was to leave the road into the desert at nighttime. The two Canadians with their BMW’s would drive in front; they were a lot faster and able to check for possible traces of presumed border patrol cars. Our trucks would follow and we would wait together every 5 kilometres. We would do this until our first night stop. It was going to be an exciting and also dangerous trip, yet our Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 truck, our desert experience and our ability to navigate with nothing but a compass and map (that was all we had) convinced us that we could do it.

First, we decided to drive down to Abu Simbel to look at the possibilities where to get off the road. In Aswan at the checkpoint one had to show papers and in Abu Simbel you had to report to the police station and fill out lots of paperwork. So, as it was a full moon night, we decided to pretend to leave Abu Simbel just before the checkpoint closed in the evening. We told the officers that we’d sleep along the road and drive up to Aswan again the next day. This would give us some time to disappear into the desert.

After being out of sight of the checkpoint, and with no other traffic on the road, we turned off our lights and drove off into the vast desert landscape. Only the moon guided us, with the BMW’s in front. Like this we drove for around 30 kilometres in the southwestern direction to our first night stop; no lights, no fire, nothing that could alert anyone who might be in the area as well.

Sudan Here We Come.

With some of the best sleep we’ve had in a while, we woke up well rested and exited that we already made it this far. We didn’t want to waste any time, so we skipped breakfast, packed up and set off with the same pattern. We only crossed one car track that looked pretty recent, other than that we were on our own.

Our map showed a small mountain range along the border of Sudan and until we reached it, we drove over 10 hours – the distances are unbelievable. We came to the mountain range and drove right through it, in between rocks and sand dunes we finally reached the Sudanese border. There were no signs of course but we were sure that we’ve made it.

This night all of us got out our best food and of course whatever drinks we had. We reached Sudan and now it was just a few more days until we’d arrive in Dongola to do the paperwork for customs. Those nights in the desert, without a single trace of life, not even a single fly was truly an unforgettable experience and it still lasts until today. But it would soon be over.

This is the first photo I took after crossing the mountain range were we entered Sudan. It was just us, our trucks and the vast desert landscape. And some cheap booze…

Camping in the middle of the Sahara desert in the Sudan, just after crossing the Sudanese-Egyptian border.

The First Sudanese Villages Came Into Sight.

We spotted the first signs of the Nile river again; a few palm trees, the first small fields along the banks, and finally the first Sudanese working in his vegetable garden. He was surprised to see us, waved at us and pointed South after we asked for Dongola. We passed more villages along the river, stopped here and there and came across the first bakery in Sudan. The bread we bought here, called Aish merahrah in Arabic, tasted absolutely amazing after all the days with tin food. The it didn’t take long for the first invitation. The family that invited us into their home was so generous, offered great food and an unbelievable hospitality. Actually the entire village was up to get a glimpse of us strangers, especially Nisa and the dog got all the attention. It was one of the few times that the dog had to stay in the truck because we were afraid he’s attack someone with all the shouting, laughing and screaming.

These were some of the first Sudanese men we came across after entering Sudan.

The entire village was on their feet to get a glimpse of us.

This was the clay crafted entrance to the families house that invited us near Dongola.

“Welcome To Sudan”.

After yet another remote night in the desert we arrived in Dongola and drove straight up to customs. At first they didn’t know what to do with us, but we showed our documents and the visas and explained that we needed stamps here and there. After some talking we all got the documents stamped and with a Welcome to Sudan we were released. From here on our routes separated, mainly because everyone had different ideas about the travel speed. We always took it easy and stayed in Dongola for a few days, camping in the police station’s yard while drinking tea in the evenings with the officers. We were simply relieved that we had made it to Sudan without a big hassle.

We stopped at a “road house” along the NIle river in Sudan for some great mint tea and immediately caught the attention of the villagers.

Until today camels are important for transporting goods through the desert. All the impressions of this trip, which was almost 30 years ago, are sill in my mind as if it were yesterday. Those were the true African adventures I’ve always dreamed about, and until today, I’m grateful to have experiences this!

The entire village followed us around in Dongola. It was quite an experience and we decided to stick around for a couple of days. Back in those days, only very few tavellers crossed this part of the world and when thinking back, a trip like this wouldn’t (unfortunately) be possible anymore today…

The next part of our adventures through Africa will follow. We’ll write about the trip from Dongola down to the border of the Central African Republic.

Key Facts, Milford Track Day 3.

• Length: 21 km
• Time: 6-8 hours
• Highlight: Mackay Falls & taking a dip in the ice-cold water at the Giant Gate Falls

You’ll reach Mackay Falls (the most photographed place in all of New Zealand) and Lake Ada before hiking past the last waterfall on the track, the Giant Gate Falls. I couldn’t help myself and went in for a little swim. The water was ice-cold and I felt like a million needles pinched me, but afterwards I was re-born with superwomen powers and ready to finish the track. From here it took about one and a half hours to Sandfly Point. It’s a well deserved name, so be sure your have enough insect repellent ready.

Once you reach the accommodation at Milford Sound you’ll have a superb view of Mitre Peak (again, if the weather allows it).

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House.
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge.
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass.
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point (you’re here right now).
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

The landscape you’ll experience during Milford Track reminded me of the one in Jurassic Park.

The Mackay Falls are a wishbone-shaped waterfall on Milford Track. While lacking in height and power, it’s a welcome sight after going for a long stretch without seeing a major waterfall in Arthur Valley.

The fog lifted just after we started walking and what we got was one one of the most amazing landscape we’ve come across so far.

Day 3 of Milford Track meant the crossing of several suspension bridges.

One minute we walked through open fields, the next through a moss covered rain forest.

If one is in need of some new clothing or interesting souvenirs (maybe a new rice cooker), or pretty much anything else you want to buy, you’ll find it at this market. In between all the different stores, you have the choice of food from around the world: pizza, pasta, burritos, tacos, you name it. Although I don’t understand why anyone would want to eat that sort of food instead of the yummy Thai cuisine. Still, some tourist prefer to stick to what they know.

Pet Section At Chatuchak Weekend Market.

If you walk a little bit further into the market you’ll come across the Pet Section. This section is a very controversial one indeed. On one end, you’ll come across anything available to “pamper” your pet: toys, leashes, glittering collars and animal clothing for all occasions. Quite often with a life model sitting in front of the stall.

The other part of the section would be the live animal zone. Though not comparable to some other dreadful animal markets in southeast Asia, it’s nevertheless an unfortunate sight: fifty budgies squeezed into a single cage, rabbits, hamsters, squirrels, guinea pigs longing for water, outgrown cages where even a turn isn’t possible. And on top of this, meowing cats & barking dogs desperately longing for some sort of attention. Chicken, ducks, poultry of all kind and of course the trade of illegal animals is not an unusual sight here.

And for those who can’t resist a bit of gambling, look carefully. Just walk up a few stairs far in the back of Chatuchak market and you’re in the cock-fighting section, illegal as well but with lots of people attending and betting. If you are up for it, you can try to fill up your holiday cash account.

Facts About Chatuchak Market.

• Chatuchak’s opening hours: Saturdays & Sundays from 9.00 am – 6.00 pm and Fridays from 6.00 pm – midnight. The plant sections are also open on Wednesdays & Thursdays from 7.00 am – 6.00 pm.
• How to get to Chatuchak Market: Skytrain (BTS) to Mo Chit station; take exit no. 1 and follow the crowd.
• What to see: Ah well, you’ve 30 Acres of pretty much everything you need (or don’t need).

Chatuchak is Bangkok’s most famous weekend market. Apart from the thousands of visitors shopping here everyday, the market also has a dark side. It supports the trade in illegal wildlife – just about any animal you can think of.

A captured Macaw parrot at Chatuchak market. Traders unfortunately make no halt when it comes to endangered animals.

Wildlife crime is a big business – not only in Asia. It’s run by dangerous international networks and wildlife and animal parts are trafficked much like illegal drugs.

The world is dealing with an unprecedented increase of illegal wildlife trade.

In many cases, the actual sale doesn’t take place at the store, but somewhere in a side alley. The bustling market lanes of Chatuchak market provide excellent cover for the exchange.

The pet section at Chatuchak market is dedicated to the sale of animals, with stalls selling cute puppies, kittens, hamsters, ducks, hedgehog and also colourful fish can be purchased for your aquarium.

The illegal trade of endangered animals is a multi-billion dollar industry, yet compared to drug & arms trafficing, not as much throught about.

The animal section at Chatuchak market is nothing for the faint-hearted, since animals here are often kept under horrible conditions.

Cock fighting is very popular all across southeast Asia, including Chatuchak market.

Key Facts, Milford Track Day 2.

• Length: 15 km
• Time: 6-8 hours (add 60-90 minutes for Sutherland Falls)
• Highlight: Hot shower, comfy bed and naturally, Mackinnon Pass was kinda cool even with crappy weather.

Starting from Pompolona Lodge, the track first lead to Lake Mintaro, before we started climbing Mackinnon Pass in a series of zig-zags. At the top you’d normally be rewarded with spectacular panorama – in case the weather allows it. Unfortunately we weren’t that lucky and Mackinnon Memorial greeted us with thick fog, pouring rain and temperatures just above the freezing point. We couldn’t wait getting away from the plateau fast enough and continued to Pass Hut, where we stopped for a short lunch break.

The way down was a complete change of scenery again: from wide openness to thick rain forest. After the rocky 1.000 metre descent into the Arthur Valley, I reached Quintin Lodge as the first one, so I decided to continue to the Sutherland Falls, the world’s fifth highest waterfall. It would have been an amazing experience, yet sandflies and rain were enough for me to immediately turn around. The though of a hot shower, drying room and warm bed gave me wings and I was back at Quintin Lodge in no time. I’m really not a sissy, but I wouldn’t have wanted to slip back into my wet shoes the next day, so thanks again for the luxury Ultimate Hikes!

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House.
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge.
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass (you’re here right now).
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point.
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

At the beginning od Day 2, you’ll come across excellent views of Lake Mintaro and the Clinton Valley.

Before arriving at the top of Mackinnen Pass, the walk begins to follow a series of switchbacks out of the bush and into the alpine sections of the route.

The track then reaches the large memorial cairn that honours the discovery of this scenic spot by Quintin Mackinnon and Ernest Mitchell, in 1888.

If the weather is fair, there are impressive views all around of the Clinton and Arthur valleys and several nearby peaks. In this case, trampers like to spend some extra time at the pass; if it isn’t, they can’t get off it fast enough – which was exactly what we did.

The track crosses beneath Mount Balloon and the Jervois Glacier to the Moraine Creek Bridge.

After the Moraine Creek Bridge, it then follows a boardwalk and staircase beside the Roaring Burn River, with its numerous waterfalls.

Not too long ago, we decided to travel up North again to visit friends in London. Since we’ve never been outside of the capital, and we had long weekend ahead of us, a trip to the inland of England was on our agenda.

Scanning The Map.

I’ve always wanted to travel to Scotland, but time was too short to head up this far, so Nottingham caught out attention when scanning the map. An hour later, we were on our way. I always thought that distances in the UK are a lot greater but after only three hours of driving (we would have made it in two but getting out of London during rush hour put us a bit behind schedule), we reached our desired destination.

A Weekend In Nottingham.

Nottingham is a dynamic place with big-city aspirations, atmospheric historical sights, and a buzzing music and club scene thanks to the thriving student life.

Nottingham’s old city centre is a highlight and home to several important attractions like Nottingham’s Old Market Square (the largest in England btw). Nottingham Castle gives you an excellent view of the city and is notable for its bronze statues of Robin Hood. Numerous caves exist underneath Nottingham, including the spectacular Mortimer’s Hole located directly below the castle. Unfortunately we didn’t get to see this for whatever reason. I guess a little more research in advance would have been helpful. Then there’s also Highfields Park, a large park full of magnificent trees, exotic plants and a great place for outdoor activities like boating.

Nottingham was definitely an exciting weekend trip. Hopefully we’ll get to come here again – with nice weather (it was raining about 80% of the time we were there) to really enjoy all the sights.

Forever associated with the Robin Hood legend, Nottingham is a dynamic county capital with big-city aspirations, atmospheric historical sights, and a buzzing music and club scene.

There are lots of opportunities to experience something totally new. With dozens of trails around the city and county, exploring this heritage is a great deal, since it’s free!

Nottingham is one of the most popular weekend destinations in the United Kingdom.

There are many things that can be done in Nottingham, yet we decided to simply walk around this lovely city and enjoy the typical British way of living.

The red brick of Nottingsham’s building are really beautiful and definitely caught our camera-eye.

Nottingham is a thriving city in the heart of England and home to around 750.000 people. Still it has been named the eighth worst place to live in England…

Forbidden City Or The Great Wall Of China?

Last August we managed to visit Beijing again and had to make a choice between the Forbidden City or the Great Wall. We didn’t have time to do both (plus we’ve visited both sights before), and since the Forbidden City had hundreds of people waiting in line, the Great Wall it was! It would be our second visit – and probably our last (at least the part near Beijing).

This famous landmark is found on several “must-do-lists”; must-do before you die; must-visit landmarks; must-visit in China … and so forth. So naturally the Great Wall really should be visited at least once in a lifetime. Or even twice.

Our first visit to the Great Wall turned out to become our worst nightmare because we landed on a package tour. We don’t like package tours at all, and we learned from our mistake. So to to avoid all that, we decided to take the public bus.

How To Get To The Great Wall Of China By Public Transport.

Get out of metro line Nr. 2 at the station Dongzhimen and continue to exit B (be careful not to mess it up with the airport line). From here you just go to the bus station to your left and look for bus Nr. 916 to Huairou. We can’t remember what the bus charged for the trip, but it was really cheap.

The ride takes about 1.5 hour. It’s best to tell the driver that you want to go to Mutianyu Great Wall. This part of the Wall is approximately 70km northeast of Beijing. Actually you’d assume that they know where where a tourist heads to, but just in case the driver is a bit absent, tell him anyway.

Once you get off, there’ll be minivans or cabs waiting for visitors. To save money, simply share one with fellow bus passengers who’re also on a self-guided tour. The cab price is negotiable, but it was around 15 US$. 20 minutes later and you’re at one of the most iconic landmarks of our planet.

Your next step is getting an entrance ticket. Unless you’re willing to crawl through thick bushes to avoid the ticket inspector, there’s no way around buying one. Still, you have a few options:

• A return cable car ticket (for the lazy ones)
• A single cable car ticket (walking one direction, or an alternate method of descent by single-rider personal wheeled toboggan)
• Walking both directions (which means avoiding the crowds lining up for the cable car ride)

We Finally Arrived At The Great Wall Of China.

It was a hot August morning and we were one of the first visitors, which was a nice change from busy Beijing. We’re pretty fit, so we decided to skip the cable car. Walking up all these stairs wears you out, so next time, we’d take a single-way ticket – though this also means that one should be there early, otherwise the waiting line is very very (very!) long. You can also buy a single ticket up at the Wall, but it’s more expensive, so make sure you know in advance what you want to do.

Walking along the Great Wall itself is pretty easy, only the crowds can be a bit annoying at times – especially if you want to take photos without people (which is almost impossible after 10.00 am).

Resume Of Our Visit To The Great Wall Of China.

Of course the Great Wall of China is a must visit! After all, it’s one if the most impressive structures ever build by humans. But next time we’d to travel to Jinshanling (approx. 130km northeast of Beijing) or Jiayu Pass (Western part), simply because you’ll come across less tourists. This is one of the things that really bother us about China: Mass-tourism. It makes even the most amazing area or sight overcrowded and un-charming…

A Few Fact Of The Great Wall Of China.

• Chinese Name: Wann Li Channg-Ch’ng (meaning: Long Wall of 10.000 Li)
• Length: The wall’s length – without its branches and other secondary sections – was thought to extend for some 6.690 km (4.160 miles)
• Built: Construction of the earliest sections began during in 770 – 476 B.C.
• Completed: By the time construction on most of the stone-and-brick Great Wall, with its turrets and watchtowers, was completed during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644)
• Visitors: Approximately 10 million each year
• Myth: It’s said that the Great Wall of China is the only human-built structure that can be seen from space. But it’s not true. The reality is that you can’t easily see the Great Wall from low Earth orbit with the naked eye – you need some serious equipment to do so…

With a history of more than 2.000 years, some of the sections are now in ruins or have disappeared. However, it is still one of the most appealing attractions all around the world owing to its architectural grandeur and historical significance.

Just like a gigantic dragon, the Great Wall winds up and down across deserts, grasslands, mountains and plateaus, stretching approximately 8.851 km from east to west of China.

The Wall we see today was mostly built during the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644). It starts from Hushan in the east to Jiayuguan Pass in the west traversing Liaoning, Hebei, Beijing, Tianjin, Shanxi, Inner Mongolia, Ningxia, Shaanxi, Gansu and Qinghai.

The Great Wall of China is the greatest tourist attraction in China and approximately 10 million people visit this landmark each year.

A bunch of happy officers at the Great Wall in China during our first visit.

Key Facts, Milford Track Day 1.

• Length: 16 km
• Time: 5-7 hours
• Highlight: Wetlands

After crossing the emerald green Clinton River over the first of about 400 bridges (I unfortunately forgot the exact number Kelly mentioned), we walked up the valley of beech forest, passing Quintin Mackinnon’s first shelter hut built back in 1889.

A bit further was a little side track to the wetland area, which is definitely worth checking out! Wetland made me think of an area near a rivers or lake, however, this one was in the middle of a valley with no water in sight! Shrub brush and moss is all that grows here, due to a iron pan below the soil. But the beech trees are slowly taking over and will eventually convert the area to a dry land.

From here the walk continued pretty flat, before it climbed as it entered the Clinton Valley. Walking through the lush beech forest, you’ll cross a huge landslide from the 80’s which blocked the river and created a Dead Lake.

After approx. 11 kilometres, we reached the Hirere Falls. If you’re lucky and the weather allows it, you can get a sneak preview of Mackinnon Pass in the distance. After re-entering the forest, the surrounding opened up again. Since it was raining a lot in the last couple of days, countless waterfalls embellished the steep rock walls, which was really impressive. From here, it’s was just a short climb to Pompolona Lodge, where we were greeted with a nice warm cup of tea.

Milford Track, Day By Day Itinerary.

• Day 0: Queenstown to Glade House.
• Day 1: Glade House to Pompolona Lodge (you’re here right now).
• Day 2: Pompolona Lodge to Quintin Lodge via Mackinnon Pass.
• Day 3: Quintin Lodge to Mitre Peak Lodge via Sandfly Point.
• Day 4: Mitre Peak Lodge to Milford Sound.

View of the emerald green Clinton River while passing the suspension bridge on Milford Track.

The walk along Clinton river makes you feel like you’re so far away from civilisation (which is the case anyway).

A short side track to the wetland area. The lack of nutrients in the soil have stunted the growth of these Beech trees . The result is a Bonsai forest.

Although you continue on a flat walk, the area is not any less interesting…

Clinton Valley looks like out of Jurassic Park.

It had rained for many days before we started the track, which was perfect for all the waterfalls in the Clinton Valley.